Robski
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Posts posted by Robski
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Did you work out wheel offset yet or you too busy with the body work?
From what I have been hearing and the calculations I have made. I believe that 15x7 (ET 0) front and 15x8 (ET 0) rear should fit.
Do you know if you gunna two pack it or acrylic it yourself?
As for the paint. I have very limited funds so I'm considering doing a Japanese / Rat Rod style (this is only an idea at the moment) so that I can allocate more funds into the other (more important) areas like suspension, engine and drive line.
If I do go for the Japanese / Rat Rod concept then it WILL be bold and a love it or hate it car.
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Looking great Dave. Can't wait to see what this bad boy is going to look like when finished, always a fan of your work.
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Not 100% sure yet. I could go one of two ways.
Option 1: Choose a colour that is the modern version of the original but has a metallic finish (I know the BF Falcon had a similar colour).
Option 2: Celestial Blue (a Mazda colour)
I am leaning towards Option 1 however I would like to know what your thoughts are.
I am also open to any other suggestions at this stage.
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If you are going no spare you should consider Euro style and go the expansion foam canister that Peugeot uses (as well as many other brands).
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He is going to use a rb20det gearbox. Will come out in the stock position.
The RB20 Gearbox brings the shifting position back around 50mm towards the front of the carfrom that of the SR20 Gearbox. This will still need modification and cutting.
is there a reason you etch primed inside before modifying the gearbox tunnel for shifter hole?
just curious
However the reason for the Etch Primer on the entire flooring was due to not knowing how long it will take to get to the engine/gearbox. Presently I am going to be focused on bodywork and do not want any unnecessary rust coming through the flooring (which is still in great condition for the age of the car). So the Rust Converter and Primer is more of a preventative measure while other things are on the go. Maybe some people see this as a unnecessary step but I see it as protecting the investment of a great condition car.
Thanks for the feedback guys
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Got a couple of hours today so I finished cleaning up the inside floor and primed the rest. Got to try out the new spray gun. Worked well and is so much quicker than using spray packs.
As well as the boot area.
And here is another pic of the engine bay.
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I really like that the r31 diff comes with a panhard bar. Should really stiffen up the rear end. I was just too cheap to get a diff shortened lolol. Do you know if the nissan lsd is clutch type?
To tell you the truth I haven't looked into completing the diff yet, sent a few emails to get some quotes and stuff but not much more than that at the moment. More focused on the bodywork currently (when I get the time). But it is on my to do list LOL. As for the LSD I am not 100% sure if it is clutch type or not.
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Yeah basically I'm focussing on one aspect of the car at a time. I do have a theme and vision that I am aiming for however I will decide on the interior once I am up to that. Currently I am focussed on the body (coz it costs next to nothing) and my engine/gearbox.
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Yeah I have been talking with a few people and I think my measurements or calculations are out somewhere. I will have to go back and check them again. However a couple of people have told me that 15x7 (0) front and 15x8 (0) rear will work. I'll have to look into this further.
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You got any idea what you gunna trim it with?
Not 100% sure but I think it will be simple and usable. This week I was thinking S14 or S15 cluster, S2k center console, simple grey carpets, S14 or S15 rear seats, some Bride or Recaro front seats and some sort of sports steering wheel. This changes from week to week with different things I see, so I won't even know till the week the interior gets done LOL. :pimp:
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Build Update
Hey Guys and Gals,
It has been a while since I have had time to get out in the garage and do some work on Betsy, but today I was finally able to get out there for the day. There are a couple of other Items that I have obtained and filed away for later use as well.
Item No. 1:
The R31 Diff that I managed to pick up from a friend of a friend for $100. This will be shortened with a 4.11 Borgy and LSD. As well as this it came complete so it also has R31 discs/calipers (Rear brake upgrade), panard bar (that may be able to be modified to suit, & handbrake cable.
Item No. 2:
RB20 gearbox. This will be coupled with the SR20 Bellhousing to bring the shift position around 50mm closer to the engine bay.
Item No 3:
SR20 Bellhousing, to be used with the above item.
Now all I need is the engine to go with these items. :bash:
Today I decided to begin the cleanup of the aftermath that was the front windscreen, LOL, yes it has been sitting there for that long. As can be seen from the photos I had a couple of cans of Rust Converter and Super Etch Primer lying round so I utilized these and cleaned up the engine bay as well as the front interior and rear seat foot wells before I ran out of the Etch Primer. If it is any indication about the lengths I am going to go on the rest of this build I dare say it is going to be very very clean, lol. I say this for as can be seen in the photos ....... I even cleaned up the rubber plugs that go into the front driver side floor, but I must say under all that dirt and grime they were in surprisingly fantastic condition.
Will be more to come so stay tuned.
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What brakes and diff you running in it mate?
I'll be running a cut down R31 diff with 4.11 Borgy and LSD. Haven't had it cut down yet, but if my calculations for the offset are correct I will just make it the same size as the original diff. Brakes (Rear) will be the R31 discs and calipers etc. (Front) will be a Hopper Stoppers kit, 290 or 300mm.
Do you need to cut the tunnel to do the sr20 conversion?
I am not sure if I have to yet. I'm running a SR20DET with a RB20 gearbox (brings the shifter 50mm further towards the engine bay).
And how did you work out the above measurements?
The calculations are on page 2 and the start of page 3. Feel free to check them for this is my first time working out offsets so it would be good for a second opinion.
You gunna run flares?
Nope, no flares. I am hoping to fit everything within the original guards. I have no objection to rolling and lipping the guards, however I would like them to look as stock as possible.
Love your build by the way Dave and always value your feedback. I always have the option to run 15x7 (+12) at all four corners (which I have been told from a few people gives a good flush look) but would love for some fatter rubber at the business end.
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Hey mate. Still looking. I have found it in the usa online manual. I have found jaycar do a similar setup also. But I think best off to wrecker as subaru australia don't recognise us part numbers :-(
Thanks for that Dave. As I said I am a long way from the interior so I will probably do something completely different when that stage of the build comes about.
What conversion you doing mate?
I'm doing an SR20DET conversion into a KE30
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67373-betsy-the-little-ke30-that-knew-she-could/
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LOL, I will find it (or something similar) for myself mate. I am still a LONG LONG LONG way off starting on the interior anyway. You just concentrate on finishing your little beast.
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Thanks for that Dave it would be appreciated.
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Interesting set up Dave and looking like it is coming together quite nicely. Never been the sort of person for large ICE system but will be very interested to see the final product. Especially like the AUX and USB input point. What year was the WRX that you poached that little trinket from???
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Nah....... remember anything and everything can be solved with enormous amounts of electrical tape.
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Got the mag but haven't had time to read the article yet Mick. Pics look great and I see you not only got a feature but there is another section on the build. Oh and I did skim over some of the quotes from the article and I like how you referred to the build as a "PREGNANCY" lol. Great work you and Miss Daisy deserve all the accolades.
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Did all the measuring and looks like there is around 45-50mm between the wheel and the leaf springs at the rear. This means that if I go to a 15x8 (ET +25) at the rear I should still have plenty of room between the wheel and leaf springs, it will push the wheel out by 54mm (setting the wheel inside the original lines of the car) and give me around a 75mm dish. Where as I will still stay with a 15x7 (ET +12) that will once again push the wheel out by around 52mm (setting it inside the original lines) and again give me around a 75mm dish.
That ROCKS, enough said!!!!
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Did all the measuring and looks like there is around 45-50mm between the wheel and the leaf springs at the rear. This means that if I go to a 15x8 (ET +25) at the rear I should still have plenty of room between the wheel and leaf springs, it will push the wheel out by 54mm (setting the wheel inside the original lines of the car) and give me around a 75mm dish. Where as I will still stay with a 15x7 (ET 0) that will once again push the wheel out by around 51mm (setting it inside the original lines) and again give me around a 3.5inch dish.
That ROCKS, enough said!!!!
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I now use ET Streets for rear tyres before I used Falken RT series tyres which I thought had good grip till I bought the ET's
Lol, thanks for the heads up on that Shane
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Chasing 270 is a nice number for a light corolla I managed dipping into the 11's with exactly that power sleepercorty managed it with 240ish but his 30 was lighter than my 55. There was a slippery centre and 4.11 on eBay for $200 a few days ago when I got my 3.45s to swap out for my 4.11. You have chosen well going 4.11 it made my corolla a very snappy little beast.
That's very encouraging to hear Shane, seems as though I'm on the right track then. Thanks for the support . So your power delivery must be pretty decent, if you don't mind me asking what sort of suspension setup do you have on your Rolla??
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Yeah that was what I was thinking. Worst case scenario is I will run 15x7 (ET 0) all round if I don't have the room to pull the 15x8s in at the rear to bring them within the original lines. I will check that out tomorrow and post my findings.
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Sorry guys and gals I went over my calculations and found that the original rim was in fact 13x5. So I re-measured and re-calculated and the numbers above should be now correct. Personally I am leaning towards running 15x7 (ET12) at all four corners due to the numbers showing that it is as close to stock positioning, as well as keeping within the original guards (without rolling).
As stated above just need to check the full lock measurements to see if there is room to move up front with the 15x7s.
Although I also need to check the distance between the rear rim and the leaf springs (or anything else that may foul it). For, as long as I have the room, I can get the diff cut down to accommodate the width of wheel that I am wanting to run. HMMMMMMM may have to look at that tomorrow. :hmm: For thicker rubber at the back will allow more power to be delivered successfully to the ground.
Shirobozu Ke30 - Video Done Page 6
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted
Well done great video. Like how you had the variance in music, and great to see the Vic boys and gals getting some exposure. At what time did you do that scene in the Eastlink tunnel (Mullum Mullum)??? Just coz I have NEVER seen it with no cars!!