Bushpig
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Posts posted by Bushpig
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The current NCOP guidelines are listed under these codes...
LK8
LK9/10
Awesome cheers
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Thanks for all the replies.
I think I will go with it, i was never going to be able to fit people in the back anyway as to fit in comfortably i have to the seat all the way back which pretty much rules out the back seat. I think as long as it's built properly and padded right it will be safer than not having one.
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I'm still in the planning phase of what i'm going to be doing to my ke55, it's going to mainly be a street car with occasionally track time for fun.
I'm thinking about putting in a half cage/harness/bucket seat.
I was wondering whether people think this is actually safe in a car that will be driven on the street? as i have seen a lot of debate about it.
The cage would be properly padded and harness set up correctly.
Reasons for wanting the cage:
-To me if wearing the harness properly and decent/proper padding on cage it seems safer in a crash (or is this not the case if not wearing a helmet)
-A lot of track days i have seen need at least a half cage to take a passenger
-I like the whole look of a cage and harness setup
Thoughts?
On a similar note, people thoughts on stitch welding the car whilst it's stripped down (safe/not safe for street car)?
Cheers,
Eli
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Bushpig
have you actually spoken to an engineer. It's likely that your car only needs to comply to the ADR's current for the year of manufacture. Pre 87 ADR's are typically much less of an issue.
Trumpets inside a plenum shouldn't be an issue. Trumpets with socks also shouldn't be an issue with EFI for a car of that age. The problem will be that your intake noise is too loud for required noise limits
Nah I haven't spoken with an engineer yet, as i've been trying to figure out the bulk of what i want to do before i start talking to one.
I was under the impression that it was to the adr of the engine?
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Well sort of irrelevant but maybe similar in QLD, You just need a modplate for change of induction and get it emission tested.
I would believe the CAI or pod filter thing is rubbish because neither of them really do anything at all
with the emissions test, is it the full on couple of thousand dollar one, or the cheapo quick one? But yeah Queensland seems a bit more laid back in terms of car modification compared to vic.
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Hey guys, Just wanting to get some advice regarding using velocity stacks on a 4age, whether or not this is legal/engineerable? (just running the stacks, not inside plenum)
on an 4age 20v blacktop going in a ke55. (located vic)
Just trying to do all my research before buying parts and before talking to an engineer.
i know you have to keep all emissions gear with the engine conversion and i know i read somewhere you can have pod filter or cai but not both. Just trying to figure out what area velocity stacks fall into?
Cheers
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or a steel pipe over your breaker bar for maximum torque (make sure you use decent 6 point sockets)
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Just realised i don't have an M10x1.25 in my kit, does anyone know a store i can buy individual taps (Melbourne)?
Thanks
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Thanks for the reply, i shall get some loctite.
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its a bit messy but you could probably get away with it. i take no responsibility telling you to but. i would clean it up with a tap, make sure everythings clean loctite 243 and correct torque. it might never have a problem. then again it might
Yeah it is. But yeah definitely not worth the risk so won't be staying like that.
Just another quick question, The bolts that held the flex plate to the crank had split washers. The bolts that i have for the flywheel don't, so do i need to use them?
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I agree, just swap in a whole new motor, cheap, then you have a heap of spares!
You could probably get away with just running a tap down there to clean it out and use some locktite but not worth the risk in my opinion.
Yeah was thinking the same.
I was just assembling it make sure i could get it all working before i tear it all apart again for a rebuild. I think for now i will try and clean it with a tap, use some locktite and get it working just take it for a drive down the driveway. Then when i pull it apart i'll just get a new 4k or maybe even a 5k.
Thanks for the help
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its a tough one depending on how damaged the thread is. i think by memory there m10x1.25, if you buy a tap set it will with come with a starter intermediate and plug. it will get your thread started and then finish on the plug tap. i can't comment on using the crank because i can't see it but if you found you had any slop with the bolt or loss of thread id scrap the crank. i wouldnt recomend helicoiling the crank either. the fact your going from auto to manual means your going to rev it more and that could mean a flywheel cutting off your ankles.
put some pictures up to show how bad it is
When putting a bolt in it goes in fine the first half, then just stops and can't go further. Even though the thread in the bottom half looks fine.
It's probably not worth getting a keensert put in.
http://imgur.com/IgCYd0Y (larger image)
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I'm currently in the process of converting a ke55 from auto manual, I took off the torque converter and flex plate and when i went to install the flywheel one of the bolts would only go halfway in. I had a look at the thread in the hole and about halfway down the tread just looks completely stuffed. Just wondering what options I have?
Was thinking of using a tap with the same size to try and clean up the thread? (what size and pitch is that?)
Or if that doesn't work just tapping the next size up?
Thanks
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Thanks guys, i'll try and play around with the rod.
Its it hard to pull or push the lock by hand? You might need to lube the mechanism if there is too much load on the solenoid.
It's definitely harder to push or pull than the fronts but i thought that would just be because of the different design. what should i lube up the mechanism with ?
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Hey,
so i'm installing central locking in my ke55, i've got the front doors working perfectly but i've run into a brick wall when it comes to the rears. I've tried a couple of positions but the angles just won't work.
the redline in the picture is where i've also tried mounting it.
Any suggestions/ideas?
thanks
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How much fuel are we talking about and how long has it been sitting?
About half a tank, and it's been sitting for about 4 months with me. It was started 4 months ago but i don't know how long it was sitting before that.
Put it in your lawn mower lol.
Fyi there is a drain in the bottom of 55 fuel tanks. Look for the inch or so rubber grommet just off centre to the passenger side under the car. ;)
Awesome thanks
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Just drop all the fuel out of the tank and refill it with good stuff. You don't need to go to any great lengths for a K motor.
Thanks, that makes life easy then.
what do you do with all the old fuel?
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Hey,
Just wondering what methods you guys use for flushing the entire fuel system?
I've got a ke55 and the fuel has been sitting in i for quite a while.
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If you scroll down a bit there is a list of everything needed: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68005-lots-of-ke55-sedan-questions/
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That's what i was thinking, Thanks
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Front, center of engine x member.
Rear, center of diff.
Thats if you have a trolley jack.
Thanks, yeah i've got a trolley jack.
Where do you place your jack stands on the rear?
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I jacked my ke55 up today,using the pinch welds to jack up the front, but to me it seems liker quite a weak point. Just wondering if there is a better way? and for the back also?
Where do you guys like to place your jack stands when putting the car up on 4 stands?
Thanks
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NCRCAs screw with your scrub radius and will flog out your balljoints. I'd avoid them.
86 and 55 share zero similar parts. The bolt spacing between them is totally different.
I have a HSD kit in my KE70, great for the price. I used them with shortened XT130 struts, T3 camber tops, needle bearing spring hats and RCA's and its a great set up. EDIT: Apart from the steering arm issue.
Okay thanks.
How much did you shorten your struts?
are the needle bearing spring hats the t3 ones?
Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted
Boot looks very tidy.
What was your method for removing the seam sealer? especially down in the hard to reach wheel wells!