DrBoomtown

is it alright to mix oil types? since iv owned the car i havent done an oil change and I'm not sure what the last bloke used

alright, iv had a good and proper look and it if it isnt the sump seal i have no idea where its coming from. there is no oil even a couple of cm up from the sump seal other than whats been flicked up from driving around, the seal its self looks haggard its all squished out the sides and breaking off. plus last time i had it at a mechanic he recommended i reseal the sump. is this something i could realistically do in my garage, considering i have extremely limited mechanical abilities. or am i better off not taking the chance of ʞ©$ɟing it up myself and just take it to a mechanic?

alright so iv got a smallport 4age and it looks like its leaking a small amount of oil from the sump seal. maybe a drip or two every 12 hours if iv been driving. but its been going on long enough that the dipstick is showing very close to L while the cars still hot. My question is, Should i get the sump resealed and do an oil change then, or ignore the sump do and oil change and ignore the small leak?

iv been having a weird idle issue with my smallport 4age. it will start out at 2k RPM when its cold which is fine, but once its had a chance to warm up it will usually sit just above 1k RPM and thats fine too. But every so often, especially on hot days, il be sitting at the lights and the RPM will drop to 900-950 and shudder a lot. and if its been sitting out after iv been driving and i get back in it will start up fine but immediately drop below 1k idle and choke out and stall. that's only happened twice though. any ideas what could be causing this?

iv had some success :) Managed to get both front hubs done on the car while being very dodgy about it. I'm going to say, nobody should listen to me, i am not an expert and there are much better ways to do this but this is how i did it. Getting the old studs out is the easy part, theres a nice little slot on one side of the dust shield that gives you enough clearance to get the stock ones out with no worries. but if you are looking to put bigger ones in, well this is where we start running into problems because that little slot isnt going to have enough clearance to get your longer ones through. so what i did was cut a small hole in the dust shield under where the brakes sit. its not the prettiest thing, and you have a hole in your dust shield so thats no good. but it worked. Now at this point i got my metal file and gave the knurl a once over to bring them down closer to the width of the stock studs to help them go in a little bit. you can ʞ©$ɟ them up by doing this and take off too much and they wont sit tight and your wheels will fall off and be a sad day so be very carefull. better yet buy the proper sized studs in the first place and skip this entirely So now we have the longer studs though the hole and we need to pull them through. A popular method is the pulling it through with the rattle gun trick. i don't advise it, but its how i did mine. First lubircated everything with some WD40 and then i tapped the back of the stud with a hammer and large center punch to seat in in firmly and get it squared up as nice as i can. then i slid a washer over the stud and then a large nut, larger than the stud so it just slides on and doesnt grip anything, to use as a spacer and so i don't damage the hub. Here is when things can go very wrong very quickly especially when using a powerful rattle gun. using a wheel nut you simply tighten it on the stud. Do not tighten it on there for more than a second. you want to get it tight, then back off removing the wheel nut from the stud and then placing it back on and tighten again, pulling the stud through a little bit at a time, untill it sits flush on the back of the stud. The key is lubrication lubrication lubrication. don't skimp on the WD40 Don't do what i did the first time and just hold the rattle gun on there for 30+ seconds you will strip the stud, ruin your wheel nut and you might not be able to remove either and be left in a very sticky situation. but really i should have taken it into a shop and got them to press the bearings off and do it properly. It could cost you more money to fix your ʞ©$ɟups than paying a professional to do it in the first place

Had a bit of a go at it yesterday/day and managed to make a right mess of it. cut a small hole in the dust shield to be able to get the longer ones in, the stock ones came out fine. tried to pull it in with a wheel nut and properly ʞ©$ɟed both the nut and stud and didn't even get it through. so wont be giving that another go to soon. Tried to get the hub off but couldnt get it to budge, any advice on getting it off with basic handtools in my garage?

Just wondering if anybody had put some longer wheel studs on their AE82 twincam, and if they had to pull the hub off or were able to be lazy and leave it on and knock em out while the hub was still on the car. :)

it surprisingly looks pretty damn clean, a little dusty but nothing gunking it up. iv completly pulled it apart including the motor ( hope i put it back together right ) in hopes i would find something caught in something, but nope everything looks clear. it definetly sounds and looks like its increasing the speed on higher speed settings

Hey guys, i recently got my hands on an AE82 twincam :) and I'm trying to get it back on the road. so, the blower felt really weak. on max speed it felt like a dead fish trying to blow out a candle through a limp straw. it will spin on all 4 speeds, but next to nothing comes out of the vents. my first thought was just to replace the bugger but I'm having trouble finding one from a wreckers and a brand new one is getting close to $400 everywhere i have looked :glare: anybody got an ideas where i could find a working replacement or even what i could do to fix up the one i have? thanks.