rockinrolla1967

thanks fellas, isn't there plenty of 4a's in australian wrecker yards, whenever i look or ask for the whereabouts and prices for these motors i'm refered to importers. i'll just keep an eye out for a smashed up corolla me thinks.

just lookig for some prices on a 4a or sr20 and came across this website http://www.japparts.com.au they have brand new 4y engines that look identical to the k's. they also have elect dizzies that look like they would fit a k engine. i've looked in the threads for suitable diffs for a worked 4k, hilux and commodore diffs are apparently to heavy, what about old mazda 626 or something cheap like that, could it take a floggin all day?

gday, ive welded my bellhousing up, it came up sweet. I'm dropping the price to $4000 but I'm open to any reasonable offer.

$3800, i have receipts for everything, all ignition is brand new crane cams (overkill really) elect dizzy thats graphed to suit, tacho, rebuilt rear drums, new rubbers, aztec red tupac paint with 6 coats of clear, new carpet, engines got camtech 609, double valve springs, 10.1 comp, chrome rings, ports have been cleaned, fully balanced, new water pump, new 95 amp alternator, extractors with heat wrap, 2 inch exhaust, k&n filter, 7ke manifold, & throttle body, microtech computer, new clutch, lightened fly wheel (only reduced by 900g), new uni joints, new pedders shocks and bushes, reco steering box, thermo fan, dynoed to 74 hp atw with potential for more if your willing to rev it to 7500 (should be about 95hp), the 5 speed has a short shifter but with the crack in the bell housing i would put a new one in straight away even though it still drives, might even do that if i have the time. the car's sweet and a regretable sale but my love of old fords & v8s is much stronger. there's also a set of 14x5dragways for it but the front gaurds need flaring to be legal, the whole car is legal, fully engineered for nsw with five months rego

i got the car tuned sweet, the dizzy phasing was out and my tps was screwed, it makes 74hp atw at 5500rpm i didnt want to take it past that after hearing the thing scream ( sounds tougher then it is ). its good fun drivin it around. ive found a big crack in the bell housing, i don't know if this is from the added torque or a fault in the casting but the box still works fine, at the end of the day ive always wanted to make a show car out of a 1967 za fairlane and after talking with my wife we've agreed to pursue that dream. so I'm selling the rolla so i can buy a descent za, if anyones interested in buying the ke16 let me know

yeah i'm convinced it's not the regulator, i can't suck any fuel out of it so there's no hole in the diaphram. i just don't understand why if i block the vacuum to it the car starts but if i leave it on the car hydraulic locks, possibly it's a combination of the computer being tuned just before it blew a cam and no advance curve in the elect dizzy (yet). i put the car in today to get the dizzy and ecu sussed out, a new genuine fuel regulator costs $175 and a two week wait from japan. i can get a new adjustable one for a few more dollars.

i found why my car's running so bad tonight, the fuel regulator is playing up, i can't start the car unless i take the vacuum hose off and pinch it until it starts. if i don't do this i get hydraulic lock. now i have to try and find a regulator for a 7ke fuel rail, does anyone know if these are also found on domestic toyotas as well? i will take it to a parts store on monday and start tracking one down. the car runs alot better now but it really needs the dizzy curved and computer remapped. cyas

hey guys, since my last post, it took me 3months to get my replacement cam from tighe, apparently I'm not the first person in recent time to receive a cam not heat treated from tighe. after putting the engine in again i drove it for less than 100km's before it just stopped, after checking all the obvious stuff i realised it was cranking over real easy, so took the dizzy cap off, turned it over and the rotor didn't spin. i took the timing cover off and there was the timing gear off the cam, the bolt was never tightened and proceeded to rip the end off the cam. i took the engine back AGAIN and a month later i have a camtech 609 in it, this isn't a really big cam but i can't get my idle to go under 1400rpm with a ritch mixture, i thought with fuel injection, elect dizzy, and big ignition all round it would be a pretty smooth motor but its real jerky, anyone else have the same problem? it goes on the dyno next week so hopefully the tuners can make it a bit better alex

how about custom making mounts? how do you fix the rubber to the steel? i can use the original mounts with new rubber

gday i need engine mounts for my ke16 fast! i can only get mounts to suit ke30 onwards, i've searched the threads and can't find anything helpful. will later model mounts do or will it sit poorly, at all? HELP

the engine was returned to the builder today, the department of fair trading had a chat to him then rang me back and said there's no issue he's liable for the lot even though warranty ran out 4 weeks ago. I'm tossing up between a tighe 140 with 37-71 duration and .488 lift or a number 150 with 40-71 and 474 lift, what do you guys know and think? remember i have efi, ive never played with carbys but apparently i can get away with a bigger cam with leaner air fuel mixture. how does the cam get oil in a k engine?

my engine with it's chewed up cam went back to the engine shop today for repairs, we peeked through the hole for the mech fuel pump and could see where one lobe use to be. now that i have a bit of an idea of what a tighe 25-65, .423 valve lift cam does i want something a little more lumpier, i have efi on my 4k so i can get away with a lumpier cam before the mixture starts getting to rich. what cams have you guys tried and liked? i was thinking a tighe profile number 140 with 37-71 duration with .488 lift or a number 150 with 40-70 duration with .474 lift

gday, today i pulled the engine out, we checked the valve lift and three cylinders were .286 and 1 was all over the place, definately not the cam specs i asked for, cylinder number 1 has chewed a lobe off. i took the plate off that covers where the old mech fuel pump goes and could see where it was ground off. i spent $2000 on the motor, i got the lot except a 3k head, 10.1 compression, full balance etc, when i rang the shop who recond the motor ( i'm doing it myself next time ) they didnt want to know me and said warranty was my problem to chase off the tighe cams. so i talked to fair trading dept for advice and next thing i know there looking after the whole situation, i hope it works out, i let you know. cool:

gday everyone, this is my ke16 I semi rebuilt, painted etc. It's got a rebuilt 4k with 7ke fuel injection, crane cams electric distributor and coil, 5speed, tacho. We put it on the dyno last friday and had huge back fire type flutters out of the throttle body, since running the motor in over the last two weeks it hasn't been reving well at all, so i thought a tune would sought things out but the owner of the dyno seems to think a lobe on the cam has been chewed off. We measured the valve lift and it looks like my rebuild could of been a rip off, I asked for a tighe cam with .423 valve lift and we measured around .25. The cam comes out tomorrow for an inspection and measure.