Teemutus

Depends... Basically it's the effect as shaving the head down. But when you get the cam reground, it has the opposite effect on pushrods. My experience is only with the dished piston head, but in my case original pushrods were ok. You can see how much the lobes are actually ground, when the base circle is almost flush with the cam core.

Depending on the cam specs, try going at least 11:1 compression. For example: 270deg with 10.5mm valve lift needs 11:1 static compression to function properly. Kent cams have stiffer single valve springs to suit mild cams like the one I mentioned. Also decking the block will help with optimizing quench and getting the compression up without shaving the head to the point of collapsing in the water passages. Rally engines here in Finland have usually pistons protruding 0.5mm from the block deck surface. Too many videos on youtube with angry cams and nothing done with compression... They sound like shit and won't go anywhere.

I have to admit that the engine I had was pretty much odd ass F. Have to see and fix once I get this one running with the mixed-up-carb. I have a bit of a worry with the velocity flap missing, but let's see and if in need - let's drill a shaft hole for one Somebody had milled 3,4mm of the stock D-dished pistons of this engine and lowered the twin-squish head to 15cc... I do not know the purpose of these witcheries... The carb in this engine was mech secondary 28/28 with 168 secondary, 105 main, 50 idle and 60 power valve. Ran pretty much decent to my feeling. Haven't been in a K-engined car ever before. Didn't bog down though even when booted, so that's why I'm saying the above... Might be a bag of differences when I get the new engine together and the carb sees a whole different perspective of life Anyways... I felt the need to share some knowledge I learnt while surfing the internet and trying to dig in to it myself with the gathered knowledge and with my clumsy hands :S I'm more of an engineer (major's in mech engineering), so I might have good knowledge of what to do, but the outcome might be something close to crap Hope not on this case... I'm trying to outsource the tough parts to the handy people Oh and thanks parrot! I sure enjoy these kinds of forums with active people with shared interests, although they might be in the opposite parts of the world :S

Mixing 28/28 and 28/32 is possible, but requires both lower and upper bodies. It also isn't an straight up bolt-on thing to do... I just assembled mine with 28/32 throats and butterflys and swapped the mechanical linkage so the secondary is also mechanical instead of the vacuum actuator. I used 170 secondary, 116 main, 51 idle and 60 size power valve. The venturis are also different in the 28/32 version. Don't know yet how this will run because the engine is still in parts. I had to modify the secondary shaft to adapt the bigger butterfly and also shorten it, because the carb body differs how the shaft is going through the other side. Had to make a fixture for the secondary return spring also. There's also no spot for the velocity flap in the secondary side in the bigger throat carb body, but at least the previous carb ran perfectly with the flap locked open all the time. Unfortunately it's winter time here in Finland, so can't test it out until late April. I did this upgrade since my 4K is being worked on. Honed, new pistons, 270deg cam with 10.5mm valve lift, 4-2-1 extractors, 11:1 compression to suit the cam, lightened flywheel, balanced everything, extensive head work done, pistons protruding block 0,3mm (~1mm quench clearance) etc.