GBKE15

Mikey, I had a shop nut and bolt my car to run last month and the owner of the shop nixed the strut tops saying there wasn't enough flex to them. If you want to give them a shot, send me your address and I'll send them out. If you like them, send me your dizzy. Glenn

That's cool. They are actually going on a ke15, which is drum all around. I like the rx7 wheels that I am running now and really don't mind the bolt pattern. It seems that worst case you could cut the plate/connector off of the bottom of the ke15 strut and have it welded to the bottom of the rx7 and it would line everything up properly. Also the diff that I have is a GSL rear from a first gen. The GSL's had the db and lsd here in the US. Thanks for the info taz. Glenn

I have been trying to find ke20 parts at every yard that I go to and there just haven't been any. I have found several first gen rx7's and have a early model with lsd available to use. I am fine with the rx7 wheel pattern and it seems that they should be strong enough behind a 3k. I think that I can do the rear axle fairly easy. I aslo want to try to use the front struts/hub/brakes and the proportioning valve from an rx7. Do you think that this possible? Thanks, Glenn

I should have taken a better pic. The dizzy has a vacuum on both sides. The other one is hooked to the carb. Do both of the ports go to the carb? Thanks, Glenn

I just realized that I left out the pic that I needed help with. Where does this vacuum line from the dizzy hook up? Glenn

I've only driven it around trhe block so it's hard to say how it feels exactly although for what litttle driving I did, it felt great. The guys at www.geocities.com/ke15 is running 250lb springs up front and agrees that that is too stiff for normal driving. Mine are 180 so I think that it'll be okay I think that I had $75.00 in the strut tups. The expensive part was the bearings. The rest was time. I need to hit a few bumps to make sure that they will hold up. After that we'll see, there may be a gen two top. Glenn

Here's the update fo anyone checking it out.... pic 1 front shot pic 2 back shot pic 3 where does this hook up?? pic 4 my version of stewart's strut tops pic 5 one more inch to go. Glenn

the insert is held in by the original threaded nut, the red cap is just for looks/dust, maybe. I'll ahve pics tomorrow. I am also doing a similiar version of Stewart's adjustable strut tops. We'll see how it goes, I finally have all the bits. Glenn

It's the usual stuff, I think the part that you are talking abou tis just the strut insert. If not, I'm not sure. Lindsay..the adjustable bits are ground control and the springs are eibach 180lbs. +++NEW QUESTION+++ I bought some tokico strut inserts on EBAY and they ended up being the ones that are made for the ke15. The overall lenth of the strut case is 17". I was trying to get the ones for the 71+ corolla but they were missmarked. How bad off are these going to be? I know that the car is at least 2-2.5" lower, but with the stiffer springs, I think that the only thing that I have to worry about is big bumps right, not so much the bottoming out issue, right? Glenn

If anyone was interested in the coilver conversion, here's a couple of pics........... Glenn

nevermind gang, I found the issue. The rubber o-ring wouldnt give and then finally came out. All straight now. Glenn

Hey Guys, I am in the middle now of rebuilding my struts on the ke15. I have a set of Ground Control/Eibach coilovers that I am going to fit to the ke15 strut and they are for a 99 corolla, but they will be close enough for what I need. I also have a set of tokico inserts for them. I got the first "retainer nut" out and the insert won't budge, is there another nut under there. I see a flat washer looking thing with a hole on each side like it may be another one maybe. These appear to be original rebuildable struts. Thanks for the help, Glenn

I ended up adjusting the pipe with a BFH and it seems to clear a lot better now :'( , not exactly the best solution, but I didn't have any more patience for the clunking. I figure that the amount of "adjustment" vs the excess piping that the exhaust shop left probably evened out. Mikey, the starlet dizzy is elec, right? No points and more spark, this is a new one for me. I'll get with you after the holidays to hook up on it. Thanks for your help. Glenn

Mikey, I'm not sure what car the motor came out of. It's a 3k that came out of a 79 ish Corolla, I think. I bought it from one of the techs here at work and it came out of a relatives car so he couldn't remember. It is a dual plane exhaust which adds to the size by a good bit. I have cut the exhaust off and hammered it a bit to make some more room. It's not the best way, but I really don't know how else to fix it for now. The more I get into it, the more I think that I should've gone with the single plane from the k motor, it would've been much easier and cheaper. I'm not sure if it helps much on the power side. Do you still have the starlet dist? I may be interested if you do. If you can think of any other bits that might help me tweak some power out of this ride would be nice. By the way, I used your trick on the clutch with the tube to extend the adj. and it feels much better. Waht setup are you running again? 4k with efi? What car here did you pull that off of? Thanks, Glenn

Hey guys, it's been a while but now I am back on the corolla. I am still trying to find the best way to fix my exhaust issue that I am having and would like some suggestions. The exhaust is hitting on the steering box and I don't knowo what the best way might be to fix it. I have attached a pic from the top so that you might see what I am talking about. I need to lower the engine on the drivers side (right if facing car) or lower on the other side. It seems that lowering on the pass side will give a little of the "uprighting" effect although, I am not sure if this will cause any issues. Maybe I need to lower the engine on both sides? Open to suggestions, Thanks, Glenn