the_van_can
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Posts posted by the_van_can
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yah i think this was cmerlin, has been sold a few times but an awesome car none the less. actually it suddenly became awesome as soon as it lost the hideous rims it used to have lol, only suggesting is maybe use a cleaner looking rwd cooling system, I think samQ has some rwd 20v cooling parts to make it looks alot nicer. but I'm a bit hypocriticaly my cooling system looks like dogs balls haha.
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looks amazing with those windows :y: show us the under car porn.
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this is a cool car.
ive not seen this thread before, keep up the good work, will keep my eye open for updates!
i probably would have put that fuel system under the car (I'm not a fan of fuel inside the car), but hey if it works it works.
cheers mate, fuel system has been changed since then, I have investigated every type of fuel system that would suit this car
and it seems I need a custom tank made with an intank pump, because the pano fuel tanks are useless and extremly shallow,
but can't afford at the moment, right I converted it back to just the bosche 070 staight from the tank, noisy and surges but I can't do much about it.
There are other people with the same car on here that just run the bosche pump aswell.
Update:
Fixed car, it's running A1 now, also got the injectors cleaned for shits n gigles and the car is now officially scary. must drive with care :P
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hows this thing coming man
yah been a bit slow been pretty bussy latly
this thing looks overrated seen it today at supercheap very very clean
thanks mate, re-did the fuel system still got a few issues I gotta fix, this might be up for sale in the future, need a more suitable car
this thing is soooo much fun to drive, its so hard to get rid of.
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hmm so I was looking at another ke70 pano and he had his door trims off and the door/door cavities were different. In different spots compared to mine and it was still a ke70. Confirms why people have different ideas on how to do it, I cannot simply place a speaker where ozyvr4 did without cutting a hole just as I did near the front of the door on my car. Although It would be better positioning there because I would be able to fit the hole speaker in but it's still a little odd how the ke70 door cavities vary.
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great for something different, realistically your probably going to be putting in as much effort and money as putting a ca18det in.
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Top work, man :)
I think you'll find that coaxials (in theory) may image a little better than splits, due to the PLD being identical between the midbass/midrange and the tweeter. But splits have the advantage of adjusting crossover points, run them active or passive, position speakers to suit the acoustics of the vehicle, etc...
cheers mate thanks for the info.
Good job mate but if you mount the speaker about 50mm towards the rear of the trim you wil find crap loads of room. I tried multiple variations of speakers in the front door of my AE71 van.
First I had dual 6.5" focal woofers with an 18mm panel on the door. I then had a Hertz 8" woofer on a 18mm panel & lastly went back to a Hertz 6.5" woofer as I found even dynamat I was getting vibrations.
If you look at my installations post you will see a green door with a grey trim & a simple plate holding the hertz 6.5" midrange.
Yah I noticed your thread right after I had done mine haha good stuff, but considering I had the pre-fabbed pods I'm pretty happy. I could only really mount the pods where I did due to the shape of the pod.
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Have worked with them, the only way to benefit it is to use a bigport head as the smallport isn't enough but in saying that I know of a smallport 7age making 130hp and utilising the GE rev range (8800rpm), If I was to do it myself then I would go 7A block, crank, rods with 4age bigport pistons and head and that would be a starting point.
my smallport has over 200xxx on it and it dyno'd 112.8hp on open headers with absolutely no mods but the ems computer. i would expect a smallport 7age to make at least 130hp, I guess a good ecu helps.
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completely fitted and very happy, they sound awesome!!!!!, wayyyy better than just making an epic pod on the out side
of the door trim. there is plenty of mids ans tonnes of bass because I have cheap speakers, but I like my bass anyway,
and when you crank it it doesn't rattle the door :), you tend to get rattles from the rear of the car than the doors.
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so I have now fitted one side and it fits very neatly, I don't really have any side view of how far it sticks out
but when you close the door and sit in the car, it's not even anywhere near your leg which is great. And I've been playing some music from it and it sound great, plenty of mid range sound. In the future I'll get some dynamat or whatever and completely seal it up but pretty happy with it how it is at the moment.
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You couldn't build out the pods to suit the magnet? You don't need to 45 the speakers.... just a slight angle is all they need. How deep are the Alpines?
unfortunatly I couldn't use the alpines just primarily with the pre-fabbed pods the hole isn't big enough without spacing it, and at this point in time I'm not going to make custom pods.
ok so I have cut the hole, this is as big as possible without hitting the window regulator and without making the support for the window reg unstructural.
I have some pre-fabed supercheap (aeropro) pods for 6 inch speakers (6.5 fit aswell), they mount the speaker on an angle.
I also an aeropro 6.5 inch carpeted mdf spacer, ill buy a smaller 6" one aswell.
It is a decent hole, here is how the driver sits in the hole, not perfect but it'll be alright.
now the sound and the fitment......
I rigged up an mp3 player to the speaker with a piece of wire, unfortunatly it can't go very loud but it's good for testing.
the above fitment with the speaker in the pod sounds really good, quiet happy with it, I know it makes no sense because there is only just enough
room for the magnet to fit and a little bit of room around the sides for the sound, it's weird. I tried it with the 6.5' spacer on top of the pod as u can see in the 4th pic, which is a little too big for the speaker but still fine for testing. I lost a lot of mid. I thought the sound would be better with the spacer because it theoretically provides a lot more space for the sound and the sound is aligned really well to reverberate throught the hole kind of converging into the hole, i can also use the alpine speakers with this 'converging' design with the 6.5 spacer but it sounds shit and I don't understand why. weird
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awesome, cheers for the info. I'm going to attack the door with my dremel, love that thing, also works well to remove rusted on crank pulleys from 4age's :) I'm just going to be able to fit/direct the driver in the limited hole but I know its gonna work pretty well. unfortunatly I already bought alpine 6.5 inch wich wont fit due to the bigger magnet, so looks like its these cheap KINGWOOD 6 inch speakers lol thats right not Kenwood, KINGWOOD. will post up pics.
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hi all,
have been thinking about how to fit 6 inch speakers in the front of my ke70 pano for a while, speaker pods will need to be
used but I do not like sealed pods as most car speakers are designed to work with infinite baffle (the door acts as the box).
By sealing the box there is not enough room for the sound to "vent" as some people call it, creating standing frequencies and
loosing the mid range.
I pulled off my door trimings and found there is VERY limited space around the doors, on the bottom of the door
near the hinge on both sides there is the screw that holds the window regulator, I can make a decent size hole and have the door pod vent
into the hole and it should work alright, the speaker is on an angle with the pod which helps for the very very close fitment.
I have already done experiements with a speaker and an mp3 player
hearing the difference when you place the speaker into the cavity of the door. If all goes well it should sound great.
Has anyone else ever tried this?
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Haha LittleRedSpirit I feel your pain there!
The 2 person traditional method with one person nipple crack/tighten
and the other person doing pedal push/release works when 2 people
know what they are doing and do it perfectly every motion, as well as
having the end submerged in the bottle at all times, else they have to
restart it all over again.
Honestly the best and suprisingly easiest way I have found is to use
a one man brake bleeder kit with 2 people...
The good one with line, plastic tab lock and black one way end,
it's a lot better than the bottle style one.
Check you are using the correct DOT brake fluid for your system
Start at the corner furtherest from the master first and work your way in
closer, ie Rear left, Rear right, Front left, Front right.
Put ring end on nipple,
Then one man bleeder kit onto nipple with plastic lock tab,
Black end into bottle, doesn't have to be submerged as it has a one way valve,
Get moderate pressure on pedal,
Crack nipple slowly until fluid flows at a reasonable rate and hold the spanner in that position,
Pump pedal slowly and drain the master cylinder of old fluid but do not run dry
Top up master with fresh fluid regulary so it doesnt run dry (Guy in car to check)
Pump fresh fluid through until solid fresh fluid appears with no air sections
Make sure master does not run dry, Top up if close
Nip up bleed nipple,
Remove kit,
Repeat for all brake corners.
Honestly bleeding brakes is simple so if unsure, I recommend getting it done at a workshop
haha thanks guys, nah wont need to get a workshop to do it, just wanted to know best way to approach it seeing I have no fluid
in the back and fluid in the front, and me understanding how it actaully flows haha. cheers guys
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hi all, this is a pretty basic one,
just upgraded the diff in my ke70 and was wondering how the best way to bleed the brakes would be, the brake lines hooked up at the back on the diff but
no fluid in them, so should I pump the pedal a tonne of times and try to get fluid into the line on the diff or should I just do the usual routine of pump pedal, loosen , pump pedal, will that eventually get fluid to the back. Also going to change the brake master while I'm bleeding brakes, A mate that doesn't really know ke70's said that there will probably be like 4 or 5 places (other than at wheels) in the brake system that I will have to bleed, sounds a little strange to me?
thanks in advance.
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progress, diff mounts are on, old mounts cut off and test fit seems to be good.
(the orange tarp was because I was too lazy to clean up diff oil on the floor)
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so the old mounts have been cut off, and the new fabricated mounts have been tacked into place. It was waaayyy easier than I expected.
A mate that is experienced doing it helped me out and all we had to do was find the centre point of housing (width wise) and measure from
side to side a few things and just tacked it into place, then it's off to get tig welded. If you have the righr cutting disc you can grind
off the old mounts like butter.
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nice find mate.
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if it's from AE92 you will need to cut and shut the intake manifold or get a rwd intake manifold with an adapter plate. you will also need to install a spigpot bearing into the crank,
the wiring loom will have to be heavily modified as if is for fwd instead of rwd (you could just pay someone to do this if your not confident). You will need to source rwd engine mounts from an
ae71 or ae86, then everything else in this engine conversion is straight foward, you will need a pedal box from an ae71/ae86 aswell. it's all writen in the post on the front page.
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Nice dude :) I'm curious to see how you do the fuel system. i need to improve mine.
with the diff conversion you will have to used different/new U bolts for the axle because T series housings are thicker than s series. I used U bolts from a t series corona (rt104?)but i also had to grind the housing a bit to get them to fit snug. (the ra60 housing i used had a taper on it +slightly thicker than the corona t series)
sweet, thanks for the info, gathered I'd have to get different u-bolts. just can't wait to get it going again because my temporary car chugs the fuel, spent $63 on fuel in 5 days too and from work, need to get back to the 1.6 litre ftw.
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It's been a while since I've update,
Have been having all sorts of engine problems, have a new question in general mechanical section each week to try and fix them
as I am still learning alot and my mechanic mates help me with everything.
been having pcv issues that just don't make sense and leave mechanics scratching their head
but its fixed now motor NEVER blows smoke and always runs great,
fixed fuel delivery issues, fuel pumps dieing etc.
so anyway engine is always running great when it is running.
decided to upgrade the diff to a T series :)
also in the near futur I'm ugrading the fuel system so that I can get rid of the surge tank and lift pump
and go to a in-tank fuel pump. The fuel smell in the car is too dangerous to inhale, I will also need to weld up the holes I
drilled in the rear of the car for the fuel lines.
pulled old stocko diff out
pic from my phone of the new mounts
the new T-18 diff to go in, will require fair bit of modification, the coil spring stuff will have to be cut off
new and old diff
JDM AE86 tailshaft, hoping it will work not sure. I have 22 spline T-50 going to a t series so it SHOULD be perfect
also go my hands on a some AE86 gear for up front, struts, springs, JDM vented and slotted rotors, braided brake lines
everyone is going to think I'm mad but I have ultra low pedders springs or brand new king springs at stock 86 height, going to go with the stockies for now,
It suits me better to have a higher car, although I want to lower it so much because it would look awesome.
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that paint looks sick, great choice. you can't even tell the back panels use to have windows there, that's very impressive. top stuff
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i just did a dodgy and re-drilled the hole, can't even notice the old hole it is hidden beneath the bolt :)
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it doesn't matter how much additive shit your oil has if the seals are hard and stuffed nothing is going to change that. plus if you are talking about increased oil pressure and old seals something is going to give way. just my opinion as i see this every day
ok cheers, think i might do another oil change, waste of money that was, never listen to your mates haha.
Ae86 4Age Conversion
in Engine Conversions
Posted
if you are on your P's i don't think you will have much luck "legally" driving a converted vehicle, unless you A: Don't mod plate it and watch how fast your insurance company gets out of any claims you make, not to mention CTP if you accidently hit someone, you could literally get suied for millions, or B put a 4age in on carbs instead of EFI, then you can go to the transport office and apply to change the engine number from 4axxx to 4axxx, which I have herd works in some states and not others.