belly_up

well just to add to the thread, few months ago picked up a KE30 with a fair bit of rust for $125, with the intention of making it a daily driver. Previous owner had made a half assed attempt to spray it, which needed to be fixed to stop it looking so dodgy. A mate donated some black acrylic and clear, so black it was. As it stands today, it's almost ready for roadworthy, will hopefully be out terrorising the roads within a week. Before: mmm rusty goodness During... And as it stands now... fair bit of trim yet to be added in that last shot, and i have a set of 13*6 jellybeans downstairs waiting to go on...

be aware also that if your fluid level was topped up before the pad change, and the old pads were worn a fair way down, then pushing the pistons back in can cause the fluid reservoir to overflow. Good idea to put some precautionary rags around the fluid reservoir before starting.

on my $125 daily driver? not likely :P but the tyres will foul on the actual strut body anyway, not the spring or spring platform.

nope there is 2 seperate lights. the hand brake one works fine, the switch was dead but i fixed it. It is possible that the light is there but not connected to anything. There are no level sensors in the reservoir caps as is common, but as i noted there is a sensor of some sort going into the brake line distribution block on the firewall.

hmm, thats what i thought it should do. Well i definately have no fluid, so i'll have to try and chase down why it doesn't work then. Thanks for the reply Adam

i was hoping the illegal tyres wouldn't stand out tooo much, given that they're still on 14's. :P in all honesty, if anyone wants to swap some pretty rims with no rubber for some 14" steelies with decent rubber, i'd more than consider it given the limited time i have available to sort this thing out.

Hey All, Been going through the KE30 troubleshooting all the little problems, and the only thing left that doesn't work on the dash is the "Brake" warning light, that sits with the hand brake light. I'm assuming that its a low fluid level warning or similar, and also assuming that it connects to the sensor in the side of the distribution block thingo on the firewall. What i want to know is under what circumstances is this light meant to come on? There is currently no fluid whatsoever in the front brake circuit as i have changed to new front calipers that have yet to be bled, and the light still remains off with the ignition turned on. It's not a huge issue, but it'd be nice to have it performing it's intended function. Any help appreciated, Cheers Adam

yeah i knew my tyres would be illegal, the increase in rolling diameter over stock is about 50mm. I had figured that if i was using illegal spacers then illegal tyres wouldn't make things much worse, authorities wise. 205/50R14s would be fine with me, but it's just a matter of finding some 2nd hand ones that are cheap yet roadworthy. Haven't done much chasing in that direction yet, as i wanted to make some sort of decision on whether i can use these rims or not. The other option is to go back to 165's on stock steelies, i don't really mind for the purpose i intend. spent a destructive afternoon arguing with rust....

Fook, thanks for the reply the wheels are these ones... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3981 They're pretty :P they foul the strut by less than 0.5mm (so close that the right strut just scrapes and the left strut just clears) so any spacer i made would just be to clear the sidewall bulge really. I have stolen the tyres off my real project car (this is a very budget project) and will get them fitted onto the rims to see how they look. the tyres are 195/65R14, so they're fairly narrow for a 7in rim. Any thoughts on the different KE front hubs? Cheers Adam

125mm backspace, which puts me 5mm closer to the strut than your 120mm figure, which seems to agree with what i'm seeing.

Hey Fook, I'm in Brisbane (Toowong). we've actually kinda met once at the cinemas, i climb with QUT :P i think you may have hit the nail on the head there, whilst these rims are supposed to be off a KE55, i'm led to believe that they were most recently fitted to a Sigma, so they may have that little bit less backspace. I'll go and grab a rim out of my bedroom, and measure the backspacing... Cheers Adam

Hey All, My name is Adam, and i'm currently in the process of fixing up a KE30 to be a daily driver. The problem i have at the moment is that the wheels i've sourced foul on the struts, and i imagine it will only get worse once tyres are fitted. So what i want to know, is do all the 4 * 114.3 RWD 'rollas run the same offset between the strut body and the wheel bolt up face, or will a later model hub (perhaps one that came factory fitted with wider tyres than a ke30) give me more clearance? If there is nothing available i will turn up some proper bolt on spacers with correct concentric locating rings, but i'd prefer to keep this as legal (and cheap :P) as possible. Cheers Adam