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  1. Well, I'm back overseas in my jungle hut with my beloved jeepy and the mighty 4k is still going strong. While in Perth, i got a cheap oil pressure gauge online, as i have no idiot light, or anything like that to warn me of something funny like a hole in my sump or a broken oil pump. This gauge really only indicates from 10-70 PSI and i would laugh at anyone who tried to use it to accurately measure oil pressure. However I trust the sender unit, so I'm just going to believe the readings it gives me within a ball park, lets say, within ~30-40 PSI. I stuck it in, and had the gauge sitting earthed on the stainless steel bonnet, started the engine and the thing took about 10 seconds to register any oil pressure then went up to about 40PSI as indicated on the gauge. ( i know that could be completely wrong, but lets use it for comparisons between old and fresh oil) "Sweet!" i said, but then i thought about that 10 seconds and was pissed off to remember that i forgot to buy a ryco oil filter with the anti drain. So i spent a day going around wasting my time looking for a filter with an anti drain valve, only to come back and get on the net and find in one of Banjos posts that the anti drain is only one of the required 2 check valves in an inverted oil filter for any non return system to be of any use. apparently the second valve is called "anti siphon". that makes no Fuc -king sense. siphoning isnt involved at all here. I did wonder how the it managed to stop both inlet and outlet from draining. Anyhow, my pressure is scaring me. I understand these motors are quite old, and pressures are generally low, and clearances are large, but after that first gauge test, after installing it really professionally (ziptied the gauge to the indicator stalk and just wound wires around the places they needed to go) it would never, ever, no matter how cold, start and idle above an indicated 20 PSI when cold. I have checked all connections and they are tight, so oil pressure is possibly much worse than it was when i first tested the gauge., or the gauge burnt out and changed sensitivity because its so shit and cheap. For now, I'm going to try sticking in some fresh oil, 20W-50 . Its frikn hot here, and the engine does run hot, and sometimes overheats when I try to drive over the hills. Perhaps this overheating is due to the oil thinning out so much due to gasoline dilution its just simply exiting at the pressure relief valve and then a piddle is leaking out the first journal. The oil dilution is probably now less of a problem going forwards. I used to have a rich condition which fowled all my plugs and all that extra fuel around would have easily made its way down past the rings. My question after all that dribble. Why do people shim their oil pressure relief valves, claiming that it increases oil pressure? My understanding is that it is spring loaded, which means, at a certain pressure (maximum alowed pressure) the spring is open at such a point that oil is allowed back into the sump. So wouldn't shimming this, simply be changing the maximum allowed oil pressure, not the maximum pressure at any given time? i think shimming this thing would simply increase the likelihood of blowing a main seal at startup when the oil is cold and pressure is close to this maximum allowed. At all other times, the oil pressure is so low this relief valve is out of the picture. Why do you all do it?
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