Hey guys

 

I was reading this on autospeed (great web site!!!)

 

http://autospeed.com/A_110474/cms/article.html

 

I email the guy and he said that they normally need 20 orders before they go into the making proces. He said that they will do the manifold and throtal bodies for less that $100 if we can get enough together this could be one more little peformance mod we could make to the Mighty 4age!!

let me know

email me on [email protected]

 

also please post your thought for every one to look at

 

cheers

sounds resonable. I'm keen, always looking for ways to go faster. ill follow this blog see if we get any more takers

Ahh...people spend money on anything these days. 7hp? Probably picked that up because he replaced that old leaky gasket.

twincam16 posted this on twincam.org i thought it was worth a read

 

QUOTE

I just had to try this air charge cooling add-on recently released by Outlaw Engineering for the SR20VE. I thought it complimentary to my other gizmo's (Neodynium magnets on the fuel line, air charge oscillator on the manifold etc, air ram effect from the front apron). You can see below a photograph of my method and the results on a graph. I took the trouble to measure temperatures both before and after the installation of the thermoblok insulating spacers.

 

The Theory - Cooler air into the engine = more power and better throttle response. A good idea can be had by comparing how your engine responds on a cold day in the warm-up minutes and then think about how it feels on the hottest summer day, heat-soaked in crawling traffic.

 

The Spacers - Outlaw have made an excellent kit, they send you full instructions, precision machined spacers made from laminated thermoset plastic. You get 3 pieces, two for each edge of the inlet manifold and one for the throttle body with paper gaskets. You also get a lot of replacement fasteners, studs and bolts of longer shank for the thickened flanges.

 

The Fitting - This is a pain (reaching and lying over the front of your car), if you've got your engine out of the car it will be twice as easy. It took me a whole day, there's quite a lot of precision work and the danger of fuel lines and petrol. You'll find difficulties with virtually all steel braces/brackets to the inlet manifold becuase it now stands 20mm further away from the block. I managed to re-fit only one bracket by adding steel washer spacers and that fouled the throttle cable!

 

The Test Method - I took my uncalibrated infra-red spot thermometer and photographed readings at 5min intervals from startup. I used the Sony digital camera time stamped photo's and images to ensure correct values against actuals and reduce simple recording errors.

 

Results discussion - It does work, at least under test conditions. These results were not as clear as they might have been because the "after" measurement was taken on a warmer day creating higher start temps. It's interesting to note two clear outcomes; fact the Throttle body runs hotter throughout the test because it's not able to conduct it's heat away as before (your startup tickover should fall faster as a result of this mod). Manifold temperature actually falls in the 20th minute, I can only imagine that this result of cooler charge air dropping the temp through air conduction.

 

When driving I have noticed an improved throttle response although it's still not like when your car is in warm-up mode. When travelling slowly in hot conditions the manifold tends to assume the under-bonnet temperature through general hot air conduction (over-riding the reduced metal to metal conduction).

 

Conclusion - This is modification is worthwhile and much easier to comtemplate if you've got your motor out of the car.

 

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