HI Guys,

Just looking to see if I can pick peoples minds here. I'm looking (just looking at this stage) at putting a Suzuki M13 (1.3L Twin cam VVT EFI) in to my KE18. Only issue I can see (other than ALL the usual engine conversion stuff) is cable to hydraulic cluth conversion.

 

Has anyone done the conversion and if so how did you go about it and what parts did you use.

 

Before people start asking, the reason I'm interested in the M13 is because the M13 is a SMALL RWD engine that is still used in current model Jimnys, mated to a SMALL 5 speed gear box. They produce about 70KW (Which is perfectly enough) and are easy to get parts for (seeing as they are still in production) and are happy reliable engines. I don't want to go down the typical 4AGE path, they are getting old now and it is hard to find one that hasn't been flogged half to death or isn't thousands of dollars, I like the idea of something little different.

 

Thanks

Matt

First of all, this sounds like a cool conversion so I'm eager to see it done!

 

Second, I don't imagine it would be too difficult, but you'll need to get creative. KE18 pedal box works to pull on the clutch cable, whereas for a hydro clutch, you need to Push.

 

I would suggest you try mount the master cylinder in the same spot on the firewall as it will be nice and high and out the way. You'll then need to relocate the pivot point of the pedal higher.

 

Either that or you could mount the master lower and avoid chopping the pedal box.

 

I'd get your engine mounted first and worry about the master later. I'd go down to the brake/clutch store and go through their shelves until you find the master cylinder you reckon will fit easiest (that's if you haven't got one already).

 

You'll need to juggle your clutch pedal lever ratio and master cylinder bore sizes to get the right "weight" on the pedal.

This is how i went about it with my KE30. Maybe you could adapt the concept to suit your pedal box.

 

It takes a bit of measuring to get the right mounting point on the pedal to achieve the right throw of the rod. The master would obviously be mounted in the engine bay on the other side of the firewall.

I have added a brass tube on the threaded rod to act as a bearing for the coupling. Its all welded up on the main points as well so theres no chance of something coming loose.

The outter nut is loctited on so it can be removed for whatever reason.