Could also be the clutch fork

 

Was it always a problem since you have owned it?

 

Back when I had my sunny, it turned out there were 2 different types of clutch forks. Side by side they were almost identical but the taper on one made it about 5mm longer at the throw-out end and it was a massive difference

 

Make sure you have the right clutch fork and that it isn't fouling on anything

 

custom engine conversions are a black art

No, this hasn't been a problem since purchase, it would actually change gears fine at first, but during my first (and only) race meet, the clutch stopped working (due to the bush that holds it in place on the firewall disintigrating), so I started shifting without it's assistance.

 

About a week after the meet when we tried to drive the car to work on it (after inserting a new bush), it suddenly wouldn't shift. We tried removing any free play, but this didn't help. So we figured that I must have killed the synchros. I bought a replacement box off a mate who reckons that it'd been reconditioned not long before he wrote off his Sprinter he had it in. We put the new box in, but still had the same problem of not being able to shift into any gear. The selector just wouldn't go into any gate, the only one it came close to going into was reverse, where it would actually graunch the gears, but not go into gear.

 

I figure the clutch fork should be the right one as it the gearbox/clutch did work at first.

I know I can be a bit hard when shifting but surely I couldn't have done that!?!?! Might see if I can get another shifter cheap off DEE-ONE (who sold me the gearbox).

If it does then I would say the hydraulic slave / master cylinders need looking at.

Mechanical clutch, not hydraulic. No clutch slave/master cylinder. The shifter idea is sounding logical, but my mate's dad (who seems to know a fair bit about cars) says it's to do with the clutch not disengaging. But then again, he came up with the famous 'Dremel the driveshaft' idea.