Ok so I know the info has to be out there somewhere but apparently it's just outside where I have been searching.

 

I am looking to build a slightly aggressive 2TC but I need to know a few things first.

1. How much hp can you get out of stock rods?

2. How many rpms can stock rods handle?

3. What seems to be the common failure point in the 2TC?

4. What seems to be the common failure point in a high rev(8000 RPM redline 8500MAX) 2TC?

 

My plan is I have an older 2TC that I will be equipping with a set of R1 Bike carbs. This is of course after I have it fully rebuilt with ARP rod bolts, crank bolts and head bolts. Cometic head gasket, port polish head, a mild cam with dual valve springs, and shave it for a little more compression. The air of course being let out thru a 2.5 inch exhaust with a NORMAL muffler on it. The EGR system is completely deleted of course since I do not have to deal with anything emissions related. I wanted to get a slightly more aggressive clutch and a lightened flywheel to make it a little snappier.

 

I know all of you have seen the classic Noob in and Noob out maneuver, with all the hype and talk and lack of searching. I really hope you guys understand though, I can't find anybody local to me for some help or guidance.

 

Please tell me if I am heading in the right direction for a mildly built 7500 rpm daily driver. Yeah daily driver, with ac even. Yes I know bike carbs are a pain to start but I already have a new choke setup worked out.

 

Thanks!

Edited March 31, 201214 yr by leWolf

Also yes i did read the other 2tc build threads and they did answer a ton of questions but i am really trying to get a second opinion on my setup and also get the answes i didnt find. Thanks guys!

I will try and give you a guide to building a stronger engine, I have built a 2T/3t rally engine with 135hp@ the wheels, not huge but the torque is very nice.

 

The standard rods are strong, and will do the job if prepped correctly, linished, shot peened, resized, but by the time you did this you could have spent your money on eagle rods.

 

Failure points, there are 3 main areas specific to the 2/3T engines:

 

1. Flywheel bolts, it is not unusual for T engines to shear these, replace the bolts with ARP bolts and get your crank/flywheel dowled.

 

2. Rocker arms, you will throw these off at high rpm, you need a set of aluminium rocker locks. www.theracingstore.com

 

3. Distributor gear, with aftermarket cams and high rpm you WILL strip a distributor/cam gear and throw hardened steel throughout your engine damaging the bore, solution, bronze distributor gear, external oil squirter on the gear and a ZDDP additive to your oil.

 

All the rest is standard engine building stuff, crome-alloy pushrods, head/main studs, vernier cam gear, oil cooler etc.

 

 

If you have any more questions, ask.

 

Cheers

I revved my std 3t other than a Weber and exhaust to 8k regularly and git near 9 a few times on downshift.

Hitting 8k regularly is a bit differant to rally/race, where the engine barely drops below 5k and is held at full noise for 20-25 mins at a time, these engines are tough, they just need to be built right, I have had to do 2 rebuilds due to camshaft failures, seen a friends 2TG throw a flywheel (identical crank/flywheel as 2T) and was told by a few people about the rocker locks. Build em tough and you will have years of fun!

Well out at QR it would just take all the abuse for 2 days straight during matsuri, top of 3rd straight back down to 2nd, haha.

Yep, you will get away with doing that on a "standard" engine, replace your cam, remove/replace your flywheel (read stretching your flywheel bolts) increase your compression, replace valve springs, buzzing ur engine to 10k, make more power at high rpm etc, then try doing 2 days around QR without doing the mods suggested and then come back and post what failed.

 

I am just providing information on what I have learnt from 15 years of motorsport and engine building, building a road/race engine as this guy is doing requires a bit of work to ensure the life of the engine is greater than a few hours.

 

Cheers

Awesome, so really this gameplan isnt far from where I was intending to go. Also this t50 rear end is killing me, anything I can swap into my te38 and get a stronger/lsd capable rear end?