Jump to content

Ae92 Seca, Brake Pad Inspection Opening


VBlue

Recommended Posts

My brakes are working fine, there is no metal on metal noise or anything unusual, but since I bought the car last year I didn't change any brake pads nor do I know when it was last done. I removed the wheel and just took a look, but I'm a bit confused as to what I should be exactly looking for.

 

This was a picture of the left wheel side (passenger side), so the rusty bit on the right side of the opening is the part of the rotor:

dsc0038nf.jpg

 

I didn't open unbolt the caliper because I'm at a friend's house and he doesn't have a proper sized socket wrench. I scratched a bit off what I thought was the friction material and that looks rather metallic to me so I was a bit worried that I've run out of the brake pad and now it's contacting the metal bit.

 

Although the rotors look rather polished and even, nothing seems to be unusual, but I'm no expert. Am I in trouble?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad

The little bit in the centre with the little arch cut out is your brake material and it looks like you got plenty there so don't be to concerned that they haven't been changed in a year

 

My mums Telstar has had the same brake pads for atleast the last 5years as a matter of fact I serviced it last week and I think they've been growing lol

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What really confused me was that I looked up the Max Ellery service manual and in the diagram in that, the metal backing (the shim or whatever it's called) has the arch and not the friction material, so it seems it's actually the other way around.

 

Anyhow, thanks for the reply, will save me a bit of time and money not having to fiddle with that for a while.

 

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What really confused me was that I looked up the Max Ellery service manual and in the diagram in that, the metal backing (the shim or whatever it's called) has the arch and not the friction material, so it seems it's actually the other way around.

 

Anyhow, thanks for the reply, will save me a bit of time and money not having to fiddle with that for a while.

 

Cheers!

 

Ok that's a lil confusing about the manual but you can trust me I'm a mechanic 

 

When the arch arch is non existent or there's only a couple mm left of the friction material you should change them and best off getting new rotors or have them machined because new pads don't wear in very well on old rotors because the tend to warp from the heat of using them

 

Hope that helps

 

Cheers Jaesn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...