Felix
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Posts posted by Felix
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i have a set of A539s on order through my friendly local bob jane dealer.
185/60s for $120 each + alignment.
i expressed my clearance concerns and they've agreed to mount one up and check clearance before buying. having an extra set of rims helps.
it's going to handle sweet :)
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fook, those EX-601s don't look to bad.
i will just run the old tyres as scrubbers on the back for motorkhanas. with something decent up front it should help to flick it around the flags.
actually, just bribed the missus, now i can up the budget on my tyres :)
going to have a ring round my area, see what i can find.
tyres i'd like:
a. Falken ZE512s 185/60 175/60
b. yokie a539 185/60 175/60
c. pirelli p6000 185/60
any others of similar performance? anyone have ideas of which is best handling/wearwise.
think a 175/60 would be better on my 5.5" rims if i can get them.
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thanks guys.
the more i think about it the more i want 185/60's. they may not be such a problem with strut clearance with the shorter sidewall. hopefully not as bulgy in the sidewall as my current tyres. sure i can make them fit.
wonder what the cheaper nankang and sumitomo 185/60s are like, maybe kumhos?
anything has to be better than my bob jane high performance all rounders, which are aren't to healthy, especially on the back. they actually handle rather well in the dry. they can get scary in the wet.
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i'll give you 400 bucks :)
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i'm up for a new set of tyres for my ke15 but not sure which way to go.
originally they run 12 x 4" rims with 155/80? x 12's (SL models had 4.5" rims)
currently running 13 x 5.5" mazda 626 RWD steel rims with taller 175/70R13 tyres. i need 13's to clear the ke30 disc's on the front.
with the current wheel/tyre combo there is not much clearance between the tyre and strut. i can't fit my pinky between the two. they fit just inside the guard at the front looking down. at the back i still get some scrubbing when loaded up on the guard lip, which has been rolled out a bit.
would love to go something shorter sidewalled. ideally 185/60r13s but think they would scrub even more and foul the strut :sad: could always fit spacers and work the guards more, although it's not something i really want to do. maybe 175/60r13s? tyres this size are like $120 ea and hard to find.
possibly 165/65r13s? guess they would have a fairly stiff sidewall, especially mounted on a 5.5" rim. have a similar diameter to the 175/60s and be close in dia to the original 12s. the best quality tyres in this size would be a lot cheaper than 60's.
seeing as a ke15 is a touch over 700 kg's i don't think tyre width is overly important. with the current engine traction can be a problem in the wet, especially with the 4.5. slightly skinnier tyres would help. also i have a set of rear lowering blocks needing a new home. maybe the 165/65r13s?
arghh! what to do?
anyone have tyre brand/model recommendations for 13" tyres in above mentioned sizes? or in similar sizes? guess i'm looking for the best allround performance orientated compromise, without spending a fortune. it is a daily driver. need to be good in the wet. $400 tyres and alignment is the budget.
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Fook i'm not sure once you get out of the corolla models.
have a feeling you may be needing to modify your tailshaft. a shortened tailshaft from whatever your diff came out would prolly be easiest.
i'd go to a decent parts place somewhere and look at their uni joint catalog. think the larger jap diffs had larger unis. not totally sure. you would need to check.
the jap ke30 unis are the same size as ke10. think it wouldn't be such a bad idea to upgrade to some thing larger.
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just make sure you clean the housing out good.
i want an LSD :sad:
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most the mounts i've seen have had the heat shield, or evidence there once was one ie, a few holes. some were bolted, some riveted.
pain in the ass things, the heat shields. i've had a couple develop cracks on the heat shield and then start to vibrate and give out real bad buzzing sounds. don't run them any more. wouldn't fit with the ford mount anyway. heat isn't the real problem, though it probably doesn't help long term.
alex, it is a cylindrical mount with a stud poking out each flat end. it is about the same thickness as the rubber bit on your existing mount (although there is another thinner ford item). can't remember exact fitment. pretty sure it was either 2L escort or cortina.
all i did was get an old broken original manifold side mount. i cut and scraped the remains of the old rubber off the two plates. i then drilled two holes in the two plates pretty much in the center of where the old rubber was, although i slightly offset them so as to lower that side of the engine 10 mm. then i bolted the 3 bits together. the nut on the engine side was a pain to do up. just had to swap the new (3 piece) mount in place of the broken one in the car.
this mount has outlasted all previous ones, no signs of cracking. i still get too much movement at times under extreme usage. maybe the urethane option would have been better. the radiator i am running now has a straight lower outlet, which puts the hose nearer the alternator fan. i have chunked 2 lower radiator hoses on the alt fan since i put the 4.5 in :sad: hopefully the urethane rear suspension bushes and a new gearbox mount will stabilise things more. also will swap over becs radiator with curved lower outlet for more clearance.
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bet it is bens manifold side mount, which is broken.
under load the dizzy side gets compressed and the manifold side lifts and stretches the mount.
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i think ke10, 20, and 30 are all slightly different from memory, the ke10 mounts being the lowest. actually found about 10 engine mounts today doing a bit of a tidy. a bit dark under the house to look at them properly. i'll drag them out and get a pic later.
yea, i've broken a few manifold side mounts before changing to the ford item, mounted between the metal plates from the old orig mount. the ford mount is a little stiffer. much cheaper, think mine cost $30 when i got it. urethane mounts were available at around $60 in the same style.
main reason i used the ford mount was to lower the manifold side for collector to floor pan clearance with 4 into 1's on a taller 4k block. not much room in a ke15. my mount is about 10 mm lower than a standard ke10 mount.
i've been thinking about adding an extra engine steady mount. something like a FWD mount from the head to the passenger side strut top??? i sometimes get a lot of axle tramp into second gear.
have a set of new superpro urethane bushes for the rear suspension to go in which should help.
i believe to much uni-lash, diff-lash, and rear suspension bush sloppiness is a major contributor to broken engine mounts and gearbox mounts. not to mention driving style. :)
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hey guys, just wondering on what you guys think the term "old school" means??
it is a way overused abused term i think. then again i'm in my early 30's so probably a bit older than most of you guys, and have a totally different take on the matter.
for me it is a 60's/70's car that is modified in keeping with it's era. ie, no efi, 17's or monster tachos, or big chrome mufflers. that stuff is retro.
it needs, cams, carbs, steel rims, or mags from the same era the car was produced.
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my 4k is still going strong after 3 years of abuse since i acquired it. was jap import with unknown kays on the clock. the engine was in good nick, i pulled the head and sump off, checked and retorqued the bearings. add some porting, skimming, cam and a few reliability adding mods.
it is a 20 year old engine, bottom end never rebuilt. still has the original rod bolts.
it hasn't had an easy life. has had plenty of work up around valve bounce (8 grand, still standard springs). have had quite a few people ask me if i've ever heard of a rev limiter at the motorkhanas ;)
unless you are planning on going over 8 grand i really don't think they are needed. a new set of orig bolts would be fine, cost dependent on toyota.
if you plan on going over 8 grand then yes, use them. then you really need to be lightening and balancing things, and start thinking about rod preparation. etc. $$$$$$
personally i think 2 grand plus spent on a 4k is better off spent on a 4ag conversion, unless you are building for a motorsport class. sorry jamie :)
it is not the size of the rod bolts that is most important. it is the tensile strength that matters, the grade of the rod bolt.
a 4k bottom end has more bearing journal surface area than an early 4ag.
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irokin, why not just go 2/3T? use 3T bottom end with early 2T head. buy a cheap T18 for engine and box. thinking it would be a good cheap conversion for my auto tunnel KE10. should have a bit more performance potential than a similarly built 4k.
from what i've been told (puerto rican source) the pushrod heads can take cams with more lift than what the DOHC heads can. they both have 8 valves, so its not like the 2tg heads really breath much better. sure the DOHC heads have a higher RPM limit in stock form, but if you were to invest in some HD valve springs for a pushrod T, there probably wouldn't be much between them.
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fook, i read through the entry form and supp regs, but i can't see anything about needing additional insurance???
the only thing about insurance i saw was: "Personal Accident Insurance is included in the entry fee and the organisers reserve the right to refuse any entry."
we didn't need any additional insurance for the previous motorkhanas. am i missing something??
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wade 169? - 41/70 75/36 291 degs adv duration
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all the backing plates have the same bolt pattern, even ke10 ones i believe, but everything else about them is different
no, the ke10 series bolt pattern is different to all later cars. :sad: otherwise i would have upgraded long ago.
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bleh..good ole WD40 for me Windows Down at 40mph
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what's aircon??? ahh, that's what the quarter glass windows are for right? :)
i just put a heater in becs '68 ke16. never had one standard, optional extra.
it has central locking though. :D someone else installed that b4 we got the car.
degassing and regassing would be the biggest hassles i think. pretty sure some older aircon systems need to be modified to be made compatible with modern aircon gas. environmental issues. not sure if this would affect you at all teddy?
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get someone else to help lift the box from under other side of the car. makes it a hell of a lot easier than trying to balance it on a jack, or resting it on your chest.
i hope it is a known good box you are putting in this time.
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i might do the same with both Becs' and my cars. far from show quality, but interesting/rare daily drivers.
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Hi Rob.... it is I, Doug. aka ke1x. nah, i've got kids, i'm the one rapidly going senile. :P
i just love wasting newer cars with more spent on their wheels and tyres (or stereos), than i've spent in total on mods. nothing like the wail of pushrod assisted valve bounce.
i would consider a 16 valve motor, but couldn't be bothered stuffing an oversized 4ag into the tiny confines of a ke15. make it nose heavy, overcomplicated and a bitch to work on. not to mention take away from the cars originality. i don't know, maybe later???? i do have an auto tunnel ke10 doing nothing, hmm.....
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Name: Doug
Nick Name: Doug, Dad, Dude
decided it was time for a change. my online name was ke1x, now i've changed it to Felix. Felix is the name of my ke15 sprinter. if you see it you'll know how it got it's name.
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i feel exactly the same way Rob.
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