harryrolla

sweet cheers very helpful !

sorry guys big head bang moment having one of them days! admin please delete thanks>

Hey bit confused to as which one my charge light is trying to wire a 4age alternator in ?

Got a 4age 16v Bluetop Can I just replace my coil with any coil or does it have to be a specific one ?

hey all i have brought a 4age and it didnt come with a map sensor or air flow meter. so i need to know which one i need to buy. its a AE82 Corolla 4AGE - (Largeport / TVIS / MAP / Yellow Plugs) ecu numbers are toyota 89661-12080 175700-0561

Here's the photos the clear hoes goes to charcoal canister

hey i have discovered something ! yay when i took injector 1 lead off and placed the noid light in it ran but only on three cylinders and stalled shortly after. that was the longest the motor had ran .... I'm starting to think its a wiring issue. i have 5 brown wires all connected to earth point, three which are the injector ones ? on the back of the intake manifold and 2 others on the cylinder head. Hope this info helps :)

Fuel system is done vl lift pump to surge tank to Bosch 044 to dual fuel filters there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Still not wanting to start. I'll check the injector pulse again tonight.

Hey I have brought a surge tank and a genuine Bosch 044 overkill yes but it has minimal use and was a good price :) I'm going to get a vl lifter pump in the tank and wire the pumps up to the ecu I'll let you know how I go :) Yeah vacuum line is on the return fuel pressure regulator. Defently the right way around

Put it bellow and no difference but sounds like it's pumping better down there so will probably keep it down there. I replaced my injectors 4age bigport with cleaned and flow tested one with all new rubber dark red ones. Is it possible it's a wiring issue ?

Fuel pump is wired into on at the key. Looking into wiring it in to the ecu but it should run without it wired up to ecu ?

No I take that back not really any difference in running

Yes fuel pump is located above tank in the boot. I just put in a bigger then stock fuel line and it seems to have helped. But the car is revving up nicely then stalling.

Oh and the fuel was closed air tight in the fuel tank for about 2 years I added 15 liters of 98 to it 2 days ago

Set it too 10 btdc and it ran woohoo, but not for long it died It sounds like the fuel is surging ? So This is my fuel setup, I'm running a fake Bosch 044 I got off eBay it was advertised as real one but it's not ... And then just the standard ke55 fuel lines to stock 4age fuel filter

Yeah I am I have had the timing all the way from 25 btdc to 15 Atdc, going in Intervals of 5 deg. But I have had the car running ruff but running around 10 btdc. came back the next day tried to start it and it wouldn't start. So I moved the timing and since then about 5 days ago I can't seem to get the car close to running. I also don't have a check valve on my vacuum line would this be an issue ? Other then that 99% sure vacuum lines are correct. Most are deleted I have cleaned and flow tested injectors, have put a light (not a noid light but acts the same) and there is injector pulse there. Where the coil is mounted it is a tad lose due to bad thread

Positive as in clockwise of tdc ?

This is my first engine conversion, I have done a fair bit of reading before I started and during the conversion. I'm a pretty fast learner. Getting sick of turning the car over by hand though :( yeah sparking order is 1342

Installed new rotor button and cab today and changed the timing between -15 to -20 still no luck. I'm trying to start it on start ya barstard. Or should I just be using fuel ? The car has no exhaust ? And the motor has been sitting for about two and a half years

is it possible that i might be in diagnostic mode ? how do i stop this happening ?

hope this helps

Hey I had my 4age running ruff but running .... And I come back the next day turn it over nothing, foot flat too the floor a little splutter of life. So I check the timing by turning it over its out. Getting it close by hand -5 deg, move the dizzy the slightest and it gone way off the grid. There is uncovered metal on my rotor down the face of it

thanks all got it running tonight. turns out the knock pins on the left cam gear was in the wrong hole. so it was 180 deg out on the intake side

Tried that and number 1 opens about 90 after. The little dimple on the intake cam shaft. Where is that meant to be in relation to the timing mark? Mine is 180 apart? Mark is right on harmonic balancer ( put screw driver down spark plug hole). How do you line up the cam pullys to the cam shaft?

Hey all. i have a 16v 4age, i have wired it up, have tested injector pulse with noide light, i have fuel at injectors, injectors have being cleaned and flow tested. i have spark timing is at 10 deg btdc. marks lined up on bottom and top crank pullys/cam gears. the dizzy cap has a spark that occasionally jumps across it (not sure if its from a scrape on rotor cap) i have earthed 5 earths from the ecu, so don't think its an earthing problem? tryed to run it on eather but no difference. Seems to me like the cam timing isnt correct, but all marks line up.. Any help would be great