brodie

HEKTIC: Strangely enough I can find reference to this kit in my Jaycar catalogue but not a listing for it. Dick Smith, however, have the same kit. It's a K3237 and it's listed at $60. Hope this helps. Brodie.

Yes, Clutch coast-resume is a programmable feature of these cruise controls, it can be enabled using a handheld programmer which all authorised retailers of the product have. The programmer can be used to change just about every operating parameter of the product, its fantastic. I have not seen CCR on another product OR as an oem item anywhere, ever. Sorry if i confused but the cruise control does not perform the spark cut, i have used both jaycar rev-limiter and shift light kits which perform a soft cut at redline and a hard cut with the clutch in at 3000rpm when engaged, and also run the dash-mounted shift light. Its a really evil sort of cut at 3000, kinda equivalent to a "key-banger" but it hasn't caused me a problem so far and the induction noise when its operating is awesome!

end result

7shades - i have used a cruise control made by an australian company called Autron electronics. (model ac3400 if anyone cares) This comes with a controller designed to screw on to the side of current model-type oem airbag wheels, and it parallels up with the horn button and multiplexes down the horn wire. Then you cut the horn wire on the chassis side of the clock-spring and run it thru the unit (note you MUST have a horn relay). For my application i was given a generic horn button from some sort of jap-import many years ago, and as you can see it has 3 buttons with microswitches behind on a tiny pcb. Originally these were connected thru resistors on the pcb but i removed these, and connected some really fine wires from it to the pcb that i removed from the autron wheel switch. then i wrapped the autron cruise board in as much tape as i could fit and jammed it into the centre of the boss behind the button. it all *just* fits Mounted the LED on the dash as you could see, and programmed the unit for a few extras like speed alert, and clutch coast-resume so you change gears on cruise and it automatically drops the throttle as you press the clutch and repulls on it as you let it out for a one-foot gear change, works brilliantly. Another thing that might be of interest to some of you is i have built a quick-shift kit using parts from jaycar kits. This (selectably) cuts spark when the clutch is in and revs are above 3000rpm, so you can keep your right foot to the floor and shift and it cuts revs for you. And of course it gets lots of attention if you stand on the throttle with the clutch in at lights, it (noisily) hovers at 3000rpm, sounds a bit like a bridgeport rotor.. hehe

Thanks everyone. And try and get friendly with your local gauge retailer - they're not cheap

and some more pics too

The dash... ok well its like this... the speedo - VDO 76mm (i think) gauges sit neatly in the speedo hole after removing the original speedo and perspex dome from the cluster. Of course they are a little too deep so you have to cut the pcb of the original cluster out where it pokes thru, and use wire jumpers where necessary (my cluster still plugs in on the original plugs for easy removal). Being an electronic speedo you will need a gearbox sender, there is a generic sensor that screws in place of your cable on the gearbox. The gauge is electronically calibratable so you go for a drive with a gps and set it up with the correct ppm (pulses per mile) figure. The sender also runs the cruise control (another story). This was all cool for a while but i wanted a matching tacho. so I removed the fuel and temp gauges and lights and did the same deal to fit a vdo 76mm tacho - again it just screwed in with its retaining collar - exactly the right size. This being done i needed fuel and temp gauges. SO a vdo 50mm temp gauge (with matching sender on the engine) sits where the clock would be (mine was a pov pack so this was a blanking plate anyhow) and for a fuel level i built a jaycar digital level display kit, modified it to dim with the parkers, calibrated to display litres of fuel in the tank, and mounted the readout in the useless shallow pocket thingy on the rhs lower dash near the rhs of the key barrel. In the centre are vdo 50mm oil pressure and voltage gauges, along with leds for alt, oil press, low fuel level, alarm and electric fan. I also took the opportunity to fit a shift light to the empty lamp space below the park brake light so it looks factory. Will see if i can find some better pics for you guys. This car also has all sorts of other sh!t on it, cruise, tv, dvd, electric windows with remote rollup, remote boot release and keyless, talking alarm with proximity sensor, and the list is ongoing. Happy to help with any more questions guys Cheers PS here's the best quality gauge photo I could find....

heres another pic

Thanks, yeah didn't want to go anything "in your face" for the interior, i really like anything that looks like it could pass for an oem item. Getting rid of the winder cranks in favour of pwr windows certainly helps tidy up the trims too. Brodie.

Hello everbody Not often I post here but thought it was about time I posted some pics of my latest work All comments appreciated Enjoy Brodie

Oh yeah, and vinyl seats

Not sure what the "L" stood for, but they came without demisters and didn't have a radio or cassette player, or antenna. No clock or cigarette lighter either, but all the wiring etc is there for it all anyway. Not sure if anything else was different.

Hey, nice 2door! That's the only other base "L" model I've ever seen, I gather it doesn't have a rear window demister either? Good work! Brodie

Hey You won't need the wiper motor from a ke55 to make your intermittant wiper setting work. In the ke55's, there is a black 4pin module in the drivers' right-hand kickpanel. You will need this, you need to cut-and-shut 2 wires from the combination assembly and there is one extra wire going to the stalk assy, have done this conversion myself. Good luck

No, not a melbourne car sorry, adelaide actually. Was my grandmother's car, she ordered it new. Yes it has black carpet and ivory interior and was a base 'L' model. Never had black pinstripes. I have seen 2 other butterscotch 2doors here in SA, would have paid dearly for another myself too!

Sorry, FPR is a fuel pressure regulator. Just goes inline between the pump and the carb, mine is adjustable and has a gauge so you can set the correct pressure. Cost about $80. These carbs seem to like about 2 psi. My pump produces about 8psi. Before I fitted this I had fuel spilling onto manifolds at idle! I did initially have some issues with air leaks on this carb, having fixed these its not too bad, but being mechanical secondaries it bogs down a bit if you mash your right foot at low revs. Also these carbs seem to block jets pretty easily, at one stage it kinda did what you've described and had no mid-range anything, idled ok and flat out was ok but nothing in between. Carby cleaner fixed this. Did you guys port the manifold when u swapped the carby?They don't match up very well. Still a much better carb than the Aisin tho..

Cluster... umm... tacho cost me about $70(trade). All the other gauges were lying around. They are 75mm gauges (speedo and tacho) and they just screw in to the original facia once u have gutted all your existing crap out of it... plus a little but of rewiring... and the temp sender on the block has to be changed to a vdo type... and I have screwed a mechanical speed-pulse generator onto the gearbox making the speedo cable redundant. This also drived the cruise control. Then I made a jaycar kit go give me a fuel readout in litres remaining. Nothing hard, just all time consuming.

Well to be honest, apart from converting the carb to mechanical secondaries rather than vacuum, i pretty much just bolted it on and have had no problems getting it to run nicely, although i used to have flooding bowl issues before i got a fpr

well, yes, technically it is, i have seen this before, but the cap is usually much larger... and the original winder-handle spline still rotates just behind it... so could be a bit of a nightmare.. anyhow, on the drivers' door i have switches for both sides anyway so could have been difficult to fit all of that in the cap, and the 6 thick wires for it

no it is actually orange, just a crappy phone-pic you are seeing

here's the best(!) pic i could find of the power windows... basically it all fits inside the door, then a plastic cap fits over the original winder-handle spline then if you look really carefully you may be able to see the switch cut int the top RHS of the door

Thanks for your interest everybody. Here are some more pics..

it's a ke30 2door sedan, mechanically it has a 3k and k50 box, a gemini nikki carb, electric feul pump, ignition, and fan, and a 2 1/4" exhaust. Inside I have electric windows, cruise, tv, dvd, central locking, all new instrumentation, new seats, sportivo pedals, and more. Have more pics will try and post

Hello everybody. Have been looking at everybody else's projects and thought it was time I took some of my own