brett_qld

And this is the actual turbo setup being built for the 3tgte, a Garrett GTX3067R Twin scroll 1.01 rear housing. Aiming for a lot of boost, hoping to hit 400rwhp :D

Later in the day, drifting in the dry: Testing the rear bumper cam It violently transitions between traction / no traction and over / under steer, I think mostly due to the spooled diff. Makes for a pretty fun ride :D

First time drifting it since the turbo conversion, track was really wet.

A few updates for you guys. Built a side pipe for it, this is it idling.

Hey mate, yeah lots and lots of work since. I'll put some updates up once I get a bit more time, but for now I'll just put up a picture :y:

Thanks mate, even at 8psi its already a handful. Once this clutch is in I'll bump it up to 14.

Made some pretty big changes, removed the coils and igniter module and replaced with logic level COPs to diagnose a miss / breakdown of spark. But it turned out that I just needed a 10k resistor on my VR sensor... ah well. Ive also changed the turbo to a gt2560r, running a techedge O2 controller and switched to e85. Have road tuned it and its hauling ass, quite easy to break traction in 4th without much provocation. Very happy with the results, the only thing holding me back now is the clutch can't cope with the big increase in power. I have a 1g-gte 225mm flywheel and bellhousing and a w57 here for it. I have gone with CI's ga70 225mm sprung button clutch. This setup should be spot on.

Been a while since I've posted. Put some solid hrs into getting it running but had a run of bad luck. Had an injector die, bricked my ecu, lift pump failed and wideband died. Despite that, I got it running (no wideband at time of video) yet to tune it.

Thanks mate, I remember seeing a chart similar to that quite some time ago, I guess these trumpets would be closest to #9 with the back edge of #3?

850cc injectors mounted, sr20 rail made to fit. They should give me some headroom for more boost later. Plenum is done, I got a little carried away on the top cover ;-)

Thanks for the feedback fellas. The turbo is just one I had sitting around. Its off a 2L saab engine, should be good for instant (but limited) boost. I had planned to go with the sc14 but a bit too much stuffing around involved in machining up the gilmer pulleys in the time frame I have. I believe a plenum should be a minimum of double the engine volume, so at least 4L for a big bore 3t (~1950cc) not sure about the max volume? The bellmouths / trumpets should never be flush with plenum wall / floor, they should be raised. The reason being the slowest moving air is always at the boundaries of a plenum / pipe and the fastest at the centre. These might be too long, but they are the shortest dhla/dcoe ones I could find. The 4th cylinder opening is roughly half way in the plenum. Ideally theyd be slightly shorter and have a full radius instead of half radius. Its only a proto, if it works well I'll refine the design. I already found out the hard way I should have made it from scratch instead of using carby manifold. Again though, I'm limited for time to get it done.

Decided to give it a bit of boost while doing the EFI conversion... Intercooler tucked behind the grill Steampipe Tri Y into T2 flange, 1200°C wrap Garrett GT1756 Made some injector boss blanks, welded them on Machined up a plenum to TB plate, radiused the inlet to the plenum Mock up of the plenum

Hey no problem with the bonnet yet, this little weapon has been seam stitched and has a 6 point rollcage. The front and rear swaybars help a lot too. I've got ta22 bars front and rear at the moment, but my custom front swaybar turned up, 24mm thick with clearance for the 3t front sump.

Unfortunately I didnt get a chance to test it on the track nor take it back to the dyno. The pinion seal in the diff blew on the way to the track, and the ignition gremlins have now made it undrivable. I have begun work on converting it to efi. I knocked up a trigger wheel setup and have had it running with both wasted spark direct coil control and wasted cop with sr20 cops and igniter. The nissan 'smart igniter' is not suitable for wasted spark, I'm going with a bosch 'dumb igniter'.

Thanks mate, I designed it to be a hybrid of a ram air box and a plenum. After the ram section it becomes a plenum, so that it volumetrically tapers. The area at cyl #1 is 100%, 86% at #2, 70% at #3, 50% at #4. Supposedly this is the ideal ratio to allow even pressure from front to rear cylinders in a plenum. I immediately noticed a jump in power, even though the new diff ratio is 3.9vs the 4.4 it had previously. I had planned to run a stay from the plenum floor down to a bracket on the side of the block, next to the engine. The airbox comes close to a where the battery pan was bolted and I was able to wedge a thick dense foam block inbetween to add support and dampening. The carbs are soft mounted also.

Long time since my last update. Designed and fabricated a ram air box, fitted an r31 diff, had a custom 1pc tailshaft made to suit, designed a z32 4 spot front brake adapter.

So the dimensions that I found for the ke20 knuckles were wrong, the inboard holes on the t3 ae86 knuckles are still a little longer than the ke20. Not to worry though as I'm scrubbing the inside guard, not running out of rack. It should make the steering a little bit lighter and I think I'll still have enough lock to scrub the tyres. I ordered a HSD coilover set but the seller didn't have stock despite saying they did. Was told a 6 week wait. Went with a BC set from a local shop instead. They came with camber tops but you need to drill a new hole in the strut tower as ae86 tops aren't asymmetrical. I'll have to make a new strut tower which is no biggie, the existing one is pretty crude anyway. I have a set of ae86 hubs with jdm vented rotors (~240x18) I'll probably just go with the rx7 4 pots that most people run unless they don't fit in the rims. I shifted the camber tops inwards and the eyeball laser says I'll have neg camber. I was only aiming for -1 so I think they'll do. If not, I'll machine up some new strut tops and make them fit the original tower holes.

I've been busy... The old girl has got new legs. T3 balljoint taper adapter sleeves, T3 ae86 p/s knuckles, ae86 BC coilovers. Ae86 hubs with JDM 240mm vented rotors on the way. Probably use rx7 4pots unless they don't fit into the rims. 2pots would be fine but the only set I have laying around are huge soarer cast iron ones. Adjustable BC dampers or adjustable konis going in the rear depending on how the new diff sits. The bc rear dampers are short stroke but I'm worried I wont have enough negative travel. R31 diff on the way with a full spool to go in it, hopefully I get all this done before the next track day!

I ordered the T3 balljoint taper adapter, and a set of their ae86 PS arms, which have the stock length holes plus an extra set of inboard holes giving more lock than the ke20 arms had. I'm leaning toward the AE86 HSD Mono coilover set on ebay. It looks to be good value, adjustable coilovers, camber tops, rca blocks, adjustable rear shocks and adjustable spring rear setup (I could use those on my celica) for not much more than some of the other brands are asking for bare front coilovers. It would be a lot less mucking around than trial and error building a set of ra40 coilovers, by the time I bought all the parts would cost about the same?

Nice work feral. Looks like its time for you to get swaybars Too. Ive ordered a custom 24mm selby front bar, up from the 20mm they sell. And also had it built to clear the 3tc's front sump Standard LCA but it has been reinforced by previous owner Ive also ordered the t3 balljoint taper sleeve to fit ae86 struts, and ae86 power steering knuckles for ridiculous amounts of lock. I'm currently looking into ae86 coilovers.

Yeah man it lives upto the Rolla name

Finally fitted the Superpro poly bushes. I tried the teflon tape on the pins in the leaf shackles and front pins. I also fitted superpro inner lca bushes, caster bushes, sway bar link bushes. Swaybar pivot bushes will be done when the swaybar turns up. I used the supplied clear silicone 'wp grease' and smothered every surface I could, including the surfaces on the car that would be in contact. No squeeks after a few hundred kms and a trackday drifting. The handling and steering improvement is dramatic, very happy with the results.

I replaced all the bushes in the rolla with Superpro poly bushes, grafted a TA22 rear swaybar, fixed some wiring and replaced the intake gasket and softmounts. I made up a punch to modify the gasket to suit the ported head and match ported manifold. I collected all the pieces that were trimmed and it added up to the equivalent of half an intake port! Big difference in handling, steering and power! Getting some good angle and something resembling control

Well I managed to graft a ta22 rear swaybar to the arse end. It has helped a lot, although I need to replace the front swaybar now. It appears that when fitting the 3tc they have modified the standard swaybar to accommodate the front sump. I'd say it has weakened it and reduced its spring rate. I think after installing the front swaybar a stiffer set of leaves and adjustable dampers probably would do the job, it is lifting the inside rear during hard corners, so it's pretty clear the front needs work. If I go the AJPS weldon coilover path should I stick with the ke20 strut tubes or switch to ra28 ones? I want to go to 114.3 pattern. I also have to machine up some Roll centre adjusters. I want to keep the short ke20 knuckles. So I can either stick with ke20 struts, celica hubs, weld on coilovers and make the rca blocks with straight holes and dowel tubes, but hows the availability on strut inserts for the 20 tubes? Less work. Or, I can use some ra28 struts I have spare, weldon coilovers, make the rca blocks with offset holes and dowel tubes, block bolts to strut, knuckles bolts to thread in the rca block. Bigger stub axle more strut insert availability? More work though. Opinions or advice?

I have poly bushes in my hilux, squeeked a bit during bed in and occasionally when the grease gets squeezed out (4x4 use). Polyurethane bushes might wear out quickly if you use the wrong grease. And I agree with above, I'm putting poly in to firm up the ride and take the slop out of the suspension. A couple of squeeks I can live with, sloppy handling and axle tramp I can't. I'll be trying the teflon tape trick this time round. Ill let you know how it panned out. One other thought, changing the pins and shackles to greasable types would help keep them quiet.