Fishtank

I think he is refferring to using a thicker oil when hot so as to prevent any leaks. However if you are not experiencing any leaks i would keep it the same. If you have some small leaks here and there from an old engine then maybe go the 10w40

Thanks mate. Yeah saw those silicon radiator hose kits on eBay. Too good to be true for the price. I'll stick to normal black ones. :)

Also does anyone have a good australian site to order parts from? eBay doesnt have a full hose kit just the upper and lower main ones. Thanks!!!

Hi everyone, Just wondering if this is fairly straightforward to do. I have a gregorys manual which seems to go into good detail on replacing/refurbishing the radiator. I am just concerned how corroded the inside of the engine might be. the radiator cap is rusty as and I just cleaned out some blocked up hoses running from the rad cap to the overfill bottle. I'm sure the thermostat is clogged open with gunk cos she runs around the Cold mark even on a hot summers day. been doing it for years and never had a problem with overheating so I just left it. But now all the hoses are brittle to the touch so its only a matter of time before one bursts. Basically what I am asking is is there something I should use when I flush the engine and the radiator? Some kind of descaling treatment? Also, the radiator is the original from 1997 I am not sure if i should try and flush it or just get a new one. If a new one, is an aluminium one ok? Heard that some can be cheap and nasty. Thanks for the help!!!

Is the replacement job a big/hard one? Might try this myself and save 700 bucks.

So yeah its def the CVS like I was saying. Left one has split and grease everywhere. How long do I have before more damage is done? I'm assuming at this stage the whole CV will need replacing not just the boot. How many hours labour can I expect from that? Just got back from overseas holidays and a bit strapped for cash that's all.

Nar stock its all stock. Haha

Thanks mate I forgot about that bearing check. Ill try that next. Pretty sure its not scraping plastic, it sounds like like when the boots split on my old 4runner and shit started getting into the CV joints.

Hmm its definitely a grinding scraping metal on metal sound. Maybe its wheel bearings or ball joints?

No only when turning and only when at full lock left or right

Starting to get a groaning scraping noise coming from the front end when turning full, or close to full lock. I believe this is the CV joints. Have not had a chance to take a look at the boots yet but my main question is, should I get this fixed asap or can it be left a little while. What will eventually happen if I leave it too long? Anything catestrophic or dangerous?

Awesome thanks for the help guys

Got a 97 corolla seca CSI 4a-fe engine I believe. 155k ks Previous owner only put water in the radiator and now its rusty as. The rad cap also sometimes sticks and when I get it off its clogged up with rust. Would a drain and refill with coolant help at all or should I just replace the radiator and get a proper flush done? Car still runs great don't want it to overheat one day all of a sudden and do permanent damage.

Gregory's it is then. Looked on eBay, tridon thermostats seem to come up first for $20-40. Do I need a "high flow" one?

Cool thanks for the replies. It was my nannas car and grandmas before that so I doubt its been removed unless they took it to a shonky mechanic. Lol. Probably needs a radiator flush anyway looks like its just water in there. If I search will I find any good tutorials on servicing/changing the thermostat and also the coolant?