sourdough

Turns out the weber carb I have is a clone and I'm unsure what the state of it is. Might go back to the stock carb while I try debug these issues. Do either of you know how the stock 4k carb would perform on a 5k? I understand you can drill out the jets.

Hey Parrot, Great story, nice to know that it has good street potential. Yeah the dream was always twins but money had to be spent on rust repair. I was originally running the stock carb when i put the Wade in and thought maybe the carb was limiting it. Got gifted the 32/36 and had heard its a good option so that's where I'm at now. If an affordable set of twins comes along I'll jump on it. I'm wanting to change to an electronic dizzy once the car is running and will get that regraphed. I was trying to minimise the amount of things I changed at once to try step through the modifications but having the stock graph might be causing more issues than its preventing. Altezzaclub, honestly can't remember what camber tops they are, I got them so long ago. Once the car is on club plates I'll be looking into upgrading the suspension properly but one step at a time! Cheers.

As an update from todays troubleshooting, I've played around with the clutch firewall adjustment with no improvement to the sound, even putting the clutch in and out doesnt seem to make a difference. 5k has hydraulic lifters. I installed it myself and checked it with a dial gauge at 50thou lift and a printed angle gauge on the crank. If i run out of things to troubleshoot I'll pull the motor again and recheck the timing. wade specs are attached. I'm running 98. Will put some fresh fuel in just to rule that out as well. I was using a timing light previously while doing up hill pulls to try sort out the knock, by changing the timing i can either get it to knock under no load but high rpm (neutral throttle blips, or under load at low rpm but the car drives like a dog. The cars not registered atm so not driving anywhere any time soon. Bit of a project for me to learn more. I've cleaned and rebuilt the dizzy and redone the gap and now the car wont idle. I can get it going with some difficulty and throttle input. I'll clean the carb out as suggested to rule out clogged jets. Altezzaclub, I've been reading through your posts about the 5k dizzy regraph and thought maybe the stock 4k points dizzy weights may be causing issues? Not sure how to go about debugging that hypothesis. Thanks for your advice guys.

` Hi Banjo, That's a really good point! In my efforts to locate the sound I removed the alternator/waterpump belt to try isolate and it made no difference and even dropped the sump to check for any metal shavings.Clutch seems like a good next step, I'll do that and see if it helps. Cheers

Hi all, I've been struggling trying to get my 5k running correctly for a while and would appreciate some advice. I've recently installed a wade 169 cam into my 5k and can't seem to get it running correctly. Mods: Wade 169 cam, extractors, webber 32/36 carb. Ignition: C80R coil, stock bosch points dizzy (0.45mm gap), new eagle leads, NGKplugs, Issues: Doesnt want to idle properly and makes a horrible whirring noise. Also when it does run it seems to knock at high RPM. Any suggestions into what I should look into to troubleshoot the issues would be much appreciated. Whirring Sound: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GeIgvdsU2ebQhsbAUGJ56IygNT9gBmK3/view?usp=drive_link Cheers

Would this be the same shock for the ke70 wagon? (343186 kyb) i accidentally got the rear shocks with the top and bottom eyelet and need to know if these ones would be the correct ones. cheers

Reviving a dead thread, just wondering if this would work for a ke70 wagon? cheers

alright so i fixed the issue. For future reference: In order to move it out of the lock position, normally you'd press the button on top of the column nut with the barrel removed, you can't. so you need to really jam the key into the hole ( ;) ) and turn with a fair amount of force. that should break through. After that you're sailing just don't put it back in lock.

it doesn't feel like the sort of issue oil would fix.

i don't want to gunk up my barrel. maybe as a last resort

Hey guys, ive had a look around the forum and online and can't really find an answer I removed the ignition barrel just out of curiosity and it cycled though acc-start quite easily.But when i moved the key to the :"lock" position it became fully jammed. No matter how hard i try turn it, it wont move at all and i can't reinstall it unless it's in "ACC". Do you guys have any advice that i can try to get it unstuck? cheers guys