Papa

Well l thought l had submitted this one ,( the one above ,) a week ago but when l touched reply to-day it jumped up , so l re-submitted , & l have been sending , on e-mail to Keith , that has not been going through , wife sent pic of the front of the car & front of the tranny , that received no responce. I sent an update on the progress yesterday , & Dorothy tried to send more pictures , but no success , & the email said the receiver site did not receive ,& to-day that statise remains ! ——, So to-day l will post what l tried to e-mail yesterday . —-. I finally completed the welding & gave it a coat of primer last-night . Mid day Friday l contemplated the tranny-front seal issue . Remembering what my dad used to say FOOLs rush in where angels fear to tread! This is one of the reasons l try to learn all l can about something l am about to jump into , SO l looked at the tranny input shaft & the plate with 4 bolts & said what harm can it do to take it off and inspect . Nothing ventured , nothing gained . To my delight when l removed it , turned it over , there PRAISE the LORD was the seal, its # AE1306L. NGK Thanks Robert.

Back to this blog ! I would like to comment hear to all of those who have not participated in our conversation (YET) ! , as to the helpfulness of those ,up to date , who have . Do not hesitate to enter & ask 0r tell !! I thank both Kieth & Banjo, for your quick responce to try to help me ! I am currently plating & welding on the frame , taking out the loose grease zeros ,of the steering components , they are a 6mm thread & can be replaced with NPT style (tapered) that will screw in tight , & yet not mess up there thread . I have to buy some additional . Also a 10mm x 1.25 stippedout in the frame nut , will be re-threaded to 7/16-20 . When this is completed l will take the additional motor out of my truck , hang it , pull the pan , check bearings , & valve adj set if necessary, do dry & wet compression , to see if it is worth putting into the car . Let me know if you-all think this is a good plan or if you would alter it ?? Thanks Robert

Altezza/ what is your name & where is NSW say something about yourself . THANKS for the response,No Manuel did not have the throttle open , l had never heard of that , but it does make sense , I re-did the test again this morning & squirted 4/5 squirts of 10/40 oil into each cyl , (just before screwing in the tester),(we took the carb off last night ) , = #1&#2 =180psi ,, #3=170,,, #4=145 .:;,, I just had to satisfy myself ! So maybe having the carb off helped here , quite the diff ,,, so looks like rings + valves + bearings ! I think he is planing on just selling both of these motors for scrap , but l am going to TRY to convince him not to do that , but rather ,— to a shop that rebuilds , because the crank looks good & is 50mm . I tried to convince him to just sell the whole car to a wrecking yard , because of its body condition , but it was his brothers car , that was killed in an accident 15yrs ago , & this is all he has of him , sentimentality comes before good reasoning !! Not going to do anything with these motors until after l ckeck out this other one ,,,,then see how it runs !! YES rusty & NO CASH !! I have the motor out & find BAD -pilot bearing ,- clutch,& -throw out ,-front tranny seal , -motor mounts & steering components , as well as broken frame ,garbage welded to-geather ,& still broken , what a mess !! OH and how do l privet message you —- I am computer illiterate, & my wife usually does all that , but she can not figure it out either , HELP !

Altezzaclub ! Thanks for the advice on the crank , l probably would have done the same thing but then again l always look at the crank to see if it is clean all the way across . The miss translation is what l was suspicious of , that is probably why there was no play at all in some of them. I just looked at my cummins book & intake is 0.010 , ex 0.020 cold they don&#39;t give a hot . I set rockers to-day at the 5&9 thou , then did a dry compression test #1=132,, #2=142,, #3=118,, #4=95 Manuel helped me here (push on the starter button) , gave each cyl 5 pulses on the gauge , so obviously there has to be more done to it ! I did not get to do the comp test with oil , which would have told me rings or valves Well he had been calling around & found another motor for -$88. So he decided to buy it & just swap the engine out instead of re-build . So l have it ready to pull ! I Sure hope its a good one ! Banjo l did check the oil pumps , the one out of the other moto was better it = 0.004, car one=0.005 between the inner& outer portion & 0.005 to the case on both & the wear on the plate was also less on the extra . But l won’t be needing to worry about them .Good learning .THANKS to you both of you for your help ! I wish I could help you guys somehow ! Sorry can not see how to send a private message I was hoping to figure it out so altezzaclub can e-mail me that manual , l might just need it , maybe you could instruct us on how to do that , who knows what this next engine will be like . OH Banjo , how did you come up with that mag-filter?? I think that magnets on the out-Side of the filter would do as well , if they were strong , but they won’t filter out the other metals (none ferrous) AMSOIL standard engine filters are 98.6 % efficient @ 15 microns & the bypass @ 2 micron -/- <> 25micron= 0.001 , l run both on our pick-up ! & have installed several for customers . THANKS again !

Altezzaclub . Thank you for the explanation of the “9rule” & for posting the pages of the manual , has helped my understanding greatly ! Banjo . Equall thanks goes to you !! Also it is good to see that both you guys are on the same page with this stuff . I sure thought that the tq’s would be more than that , my (ft/lb tq wrench). starts at 50ft/lbs so i will have to use my (“in/lbs”) tq wrench . That valve lash clearance still seems upside down to me . To me the hot clearance would be the tighter one, but you both show the same . .On the idea of possibly useing the best bearings , l had thought the same , but when l measured the crank with my Mititoya calipers the car motor measured about 50 mm and the extra 49 , that would be about a 40thou grind , so i scraped that idea , of course if l had actually proceeded with that idea, l would have checked further with my micrometers . Thanks again !

Uber member Thanks for the offer of the 4K manual , but this is a -3K- engine , so what good would that manual do me ? As for that 9 rule , l can not follow that at all, to me that’s a bunch of gooblygook Your discussion about the 0.005 & 0.009 cold verses 12&16 hot , YES the expanding metal as it got hot would tend to close the -gap- , so it does appear like the 12&16 should be the cold , confusing ! However l do need the Tq on “1”the rod cap nuts, & “2”main bearing bolts,”3” head bolts, “4” exhaust/intake bolts thanks Banjo for the advice I will do that ! you say check the clearance between the star rotor & surrounding casing , Do you know what the spec’s are ? I have them for a Cummins 390 , but l don’t think they would be the same for this engine I don’t think that the problem is the bypass valve causing low oil press , looking at the bearings , there is copper starting to show. I will know more after I get the valves adjusted & do a compression test .

Thanks guys for the input ! I took the starter off and checked it out, hooked it up electrically, jumped the key contact several times, & functioned flawlessly ! He has another motor (partly disassembled) so I took the timing chain off it & compared it to this one , it is a better one so I used it . Too check a chain , lay them out , & side flex them to see how much they bend sideways . _-_- So now I need to adj the valve rockers, & I need instructions on HOW , & the clearances ! Then will come the compression test ! . IS there any way l could check & compare the oil pumps since l have “2” of them ?? I just looked at that oil filter site - RYCO & on the efficiency line if that #35 is microns that is a horrible filter , it should be less than 1/2 that ! Go to -goodoil4u.com - click on buy amsoil , then corporate web site and explore !

I am Robert Mintz (PAPA) @ goodoil4u.com , AMSOIL they recommend that you always pre-fill your new filter before installation to prevent dry starts , even on inverted filters you fill it “1” time to let the oil soak into the medium, check it out . Papa

Thank you Banjo ! Now breakfast is done. I don’t know what you mean (the dizzy) . I have removed the oil pump , put a flat tip screwdriver bit in my battery drill & rotated the oil pump full speed both forward & backward, no problem , pulled the distributer out , gear & pin looked good , no bad teeth , or odd wear marks ! Car 1979 Toyota Corolla With #1 piston @ tdc , checking valve clearance (by hand) l can barely feel any movement at #1&#3 intake ,”0” any place else ! Cranking the motor over all valves seem to be operating properly ! I will check the cam gear & key, but it would take a ton of force to break that key ! Before l would pull the head l would like to adj the valves properly I am wondering could it be ,, #1 ,that there is not enough oil press to keep the oil pressurized/spring assisted cam chain tensioner engaged sufficiently to not allow the chain to slap up against the guide on the opposite side?? , , #2 That when he tried to start the car , the bendex gear did not properly engage the ring gear & jammed ? One / Two big problems l speak only English,,,,, he only Spanish! My fault , I am in Costa Rica Revelation . The cam gear has a pin not a key ,,sorry my mistake . Rotating the cam buy hand with a wrench on the nut , watching the valve springs all the tension for each spring seemed the same & when it popped over center it would literally rotate itself a little bit

I talked to the man this morning & he said the motor did not get hot , but when climbing the hill out of the valley, it did hesitate a couple times . He had taken his wife to a place & had to wait about an hr . When he tried to re-start , is when the problem manifested . After the mechanic broke it free he drove it home (slowly) . I listened with the hood open & at the tail pipe , did not detect any unusual sounds . Except for that small slap in the front of the engine . The only time l ever heard piston slap was in the early 1950s in a 40s model Ford or maybe it was in a 36 or 37 model ,, so l don&#39;t remember the particulars of the sound.

This is NOT my car, l am trying to help another ! He was stopped & when he tried to start it , the engine was locked a mechanic put a wrench on the crankshaft nut & shook the engine. He then drove it slowly home (he lives on my property) l listened to the engine & the exhaust , sounded good , he then reved the engine a little bit & when he backed of the gas you could hear a slapping noise. I have taken plugs out, the timing chain cover & oil pan & valve cover off , inspected all the bearings , found no problem, no spun bearings, but in need of replacement, valves all work good, need adj . When turning by hand it seems to have hard places (in fact one time l had to use a stap wrench on the pulley ). When it breaks over the hard spot it almost turns by itself , l have noticed the the chain slackens on the right hand keeper & then slaps it when you turn more . Removed the spring loaded plunger & all looks good ! Anyone any ideas, PLEASE help ! I also now need bolt Tqs & tapper clearances / sequence etc!