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ben

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ben last won the day on July 7

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About ben

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  • Birthday 09/06/1977

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  • Location
    Seymour Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, restoring and customising old cars,
  1. For Sale: Straight KE30 2 Door Corolla. 1975. Resprayed in Gypsum 2 pack in 2003 so paint still pretty good. Engine: Built 5k, solid lifter conversion with stage 3 camtech cam. 1 x 40mm sidedraft Weber. Extractors/exhaust...all the usual stuff. MSD-6AL and pertronic ignitor with all mechanical dizzy Trans: 5 Sp T50 (Early) with K-T Bell housing - needs front oil seal replacement...leaks like a sieve so needs work. Uprated tailshaft (Holden 6 sized UJs) - TA22 Hyd clutch. 21 spline plate from eXtreme Clutch Diff: R31 Skyline, shortened with corrected pinion angle and KE30 mounts - noisy but strong. Engineer certified with QLD Mod plate, rear anti roll bar to suit and custom handbrake cables Brakes: Stock KE30 front, rear R31 Disc and calipers with mechanical handbrake. Suspension - lowered King in the front, extra leaf and rest leaf pack down the back. Wheels: 14" Steelies, all tyres will be too old for road use now... Interior - ok, Carpet replaced and still good, Front seats retrimmed and still pretty good. Door cards gone and headlining needs replacing. Has a CD player with an amp and speakers. Remote alarm with central locking. Unregistered, East Gippsland, Victoria. 3 boxes of spare bits to go with it. Price: $2000 ONO, as is, buyer to collect - hasn't been driven in 5 years, so this will not be a drive away job - needs tires, all fluids, rotors etc. Been in my family since new...will miss it, but no longer have the time. Photos of build over the years below. It's not that clean at the moment either but will scrub up ok. Just needs some TLC. Oh and it has a Venetian blind in the back! email if interested: [email protected]
  2. G'day I just munched my K50 Is this still for sale? Cheers Ben
  3. Nah, Thanks but no thanks, I have too many cars now and unfortunately the Rolla has to be the one to go...
  4. Hi all, I have a pair of RA 60 Celica front struts, all stripped so no springs or shocks, Front brake calipers and hubs (bearings removed). All have been cleaned and degreased ready to install new springs, shocks and bearings. No longer going that path so if anybody wants them please email me at [email protected] Price: $40.00 the lot. Moving house so it has to go or will be thrown out.
  5. SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD I have a 3K-H Motor, was Reconditioned in 2000 and did about 20000km before I upgraded. The Engine has been disassembled but the rotating assembly is still in the block. Head fully dismantled and has been ported with K-line valve guides installed. Will need a thorough clean before reassembly. Rear Jap Diff, Ratio 4.11:1. Mounts and brakes removed but centre and axles still complete, worked fine when removed from car. Selby Rear Swaybar- Bar only- not mounts or links. Pretty much brand new. Prices: All $100.00 Engine $50.00, Swaybar $40.00, Diff $30.00 Will sell separately but want them all gone as we are moving soon. Would rather see them go to a needy Corolla than me just junk them. In Northern Suburbs of Brisbane. If your interested drop me an email at [email protected] Cheers. SOLD
  6. G'day there, I have a 3K-H motor, complete but head removed. It was reconditioned in 2000 and was taken out of the car in 2003 for a 5k swap. However it has collected plenty of dust and debris since then but still looks in pretty good nick. It will need to be stripped and cleaned before you use it but the bores are good and i have removed a bearing cap and the bearing still looked fine. The Cylinder head is stripped, no valves, springs, or seats, but does have K-line Bronze guides installed. It received a fairly extensive port job. It has one scratch across the face which could be machined out. Let me know if you are still interested. regards, Ben
  7. R31 Diff is a good conversion. Fits pretty well once shortened an has the same stud pattern though a finer thread pitch on the studs. The Disc brakes are a good bonus too and work fine with a stock KE30 master cylinder but you need to double flare the metal brake line on the car to mate up to the hydraulic system that comes with the diff. The axles are thicker than a Falcon GTHO so you won't break them! Oh and the axle flange will need a step machined into it to fit the factory wheel spigot size. The brake disc mounts to the axle flange and there is plenty of room for a step. Don't forget the tailshaft too, the factory UJs are tiny and break easily. Overall a good conversion but can be a bit fiddly. Hope that helps. Ben
  8. G'day, My 5k runs a Camtech (from Sydney) stage 3 solid camshaft. But it used to run a stage 4 hydraulic and that was fine-made good power and wasn't too grumpy at idle and around town. I recommend you convert to solid lifters though as the hydraulics didn't last long with a big cam. I run the 5K head which I had ported by Racetech heads in Sydney also- great job they did too. It also runs lightweight oversize stainless steel valves with double springs (performance springs) at around 80lbs of seat pressure- you can run 110lb but not really necessary on the street as i have had not valve bounce issues. Static comp is 11.5:1 and it has to run 98 octane unleaded and needs to be in gear with the clutch just loaded to turn it off without run on. I run the distributor from the original 3k but with all mechanical advance for a single 40mm side draft DCOE Weber- simple and effective. I use the Pertronix ignitor as an under the cap electronic ignition and again, has been in use for 10 years with no problems. It has nearly 39 deg of total advance but i have no idea of the actual curve, but k motors need heaps of advance to make power and to be able to run that you need the head ported and polished to minimise detonation and use 98 octane fuel. Get the recurve of the dizzy done on a regraphing machine and get it done at a dyno place. Expensive but worth it. My Extractors are 4-1 and then a 2" system with 1 hot dog and a hi-flo muffler- again works fine and not that expensive. Just put exhaust insulating tape around them or you'll collapse the lower radiator hose as they run close. I can definitely recommend the DCOE Weber though- it is a pain to get set up properly but so tune-able and with one its just set and forget. Just be careful how you go about the lifter conversion as there are various methods. Did you get the bottom end balanced and blueprinted?- makes a big difference too hope that helps you a bit more. Cheers, Ben
  9. Yeah it has worked out really well, did take a lot of work and effort to make it look like it came that way from the factory and even use the facory 14" rims, but definitely worth it.
  10. Just to let you all know, My KE30 now has a R31 Skyline diff in the back with the disc brakes. It was shortened and the pinion offset and angle adjusted to Corolla factory specs. It also now has a custom tailshaft with much larger UJs. Just bolted right in, was a very nice conversion job. Needed custom handbrake cables to mate Skyline brakes to Corolla handbrake and the stock drum brake hyraulic system works fine. The Selby swaybar on the rear didn't fit around the new diff so got a custom one made up and it works nicely. ( Anyone want a Selby rear swaybar for a KE30? It is only 2 years old!) Oh, and as for the comments about the stock UJ being fine, maybe they are but why take the chance, as the motor is larger than anything Toyota intented to put in that car with that diff. The engineer who certified the conversion and the mechanic who worked on it both said the UJ were too small and I quote 'toys'. If anyone wants any other details let me know. Cheers.
  11. The Stock jap diff and uni's in a KE30 aren't very strong and is the weakest point in the driveline. The 5K is modified and makes about 80hp at the wheels. It was the front Uni that sheared off so i was lucky I was only in 1st gear or bad stuff could have happened... Will definitely fit a tailshaft loop of some description now.
  12. Cheers mate that would be tops.
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