AE71_ROLLA

Its been going good for a couple of days now but has a small misfire every now and then but seems to be down low at low RPM or when putting ya foot down it misses a little so i am going to get some new plugs and make a few new wires for the coil and such to see what happens!

Think i may have solved the problem i think the wire that is in the points that goes from top to bottom has been arcing out and causing this issue, but i still will replace the ignition switch and also this wire! i have heard noises arcing out when it was running not like the normal quite noise that it made and when i pulled it apart it broke straight away and was all torn and tattered so ill keep you informed!

There are two versions and i have the exact same car!!!! umm from memory repco said one was japanese and the other was from aust! i would go to a clutch place and not repco and buy one as they gave me the two bearing sizes and took the one back i didnt ned and cost me 120 bucksa for a new clutch kit!

Buying a new toyota switch with contacts and such as the auto electrician said that it could be the only this possible as ur turing the key to a certain point and its touching the contacts, so i will just buy a new genuine one which should be here tomorrow and will keep you informed with what is happening!

Basically what happens is the car does what it would do if you drive along and turn your key from ON to ACC but it does it automatically! and then once you turn the key back towards ON a little bit it works and then dies straight away! its soo freaking annoying! taking it down for someone to have a look at today!

just tried the multimeter and it went ok got 12 v out of the positive side of the coil but the ballast resistor is freaking hot as maybe this is shorting out??? being so hot are they suppose to be hot??

i have replaced the tail and barrell! and when i replaced the tail it did it worked for a couple of days now its just doing it again, it will idle sometimes and then not and some times u turn the key a few times quickly and then it will idle for a little bit or sometimes not at all! its a really intermittent fault! i have a spare coil which i may try and see what happens but if nothing i am going to take it to an Auto electrician and see what he can find!

no i don't have a huge keyring LOL, its just when u hold the key towards on but not to start it goes as soon as u let the key off the revs drop to nothing and then the car comes down from speed and stops! if u have enough pace u turn the keyt a little bit and off it goes again! so i have no idea but i am going to check all the points and stuff tonight and look for wires! so any help would be awesome

What happens u drive along and the rpm drops and nothing but you turn the key a little towards the ON position and it continues the u let go of the key and the rpm drops but as soon as u turn the key it works, everything else works like stereo and lights and stuff just the RPM so we replaced the key and barrel and also the electronic module on the back of the barrel and thats it, is there anything else i could try as it seems to be something like a loose wire or some volts dropping or something?? anything else i can look at as i can't stand holding the key whist driving, also when u let go of the key sometimes after u turn it towards the ON position it stays on the after a while RPM will drop but everything else works!

AE71 Corolla sedan 4AC, have problem with ignition i drive along and it dies like then i turn the key towards the on position and it comes back to life but let go of the key and she drops most of the time but sometimes i am pretty lucky. but i hate driving holding the key! i have changed barrel and new key and also changed the electronic rotary switch on the back of the ignition and still the same problem, any ideas and it feels like it sometimes missing a little but not as if its completely misfiring! any help would be awesome

i only use snap on kingcrome and sidchrome, these tools have lifetime warranty so that they never will fail, My old man has a set of repco sockets and its the best little set every lifetime warranty as well. we actually cracked one of the sockets and they replaced the whole kit! gear ratches and tube spanners are the bomb as well. spend the extra money and get the good gear so it lasts (if u take care of it and don't loose it) Cheap ratchets fail after a while in the gears on the head. but dad has had he's repco ones for like 10 years and they havent broken except for the socket then they replaced the whole kit as i mentioned free of charge. with out a receipt even!

Yeah it was the altenator that was farked, it is getting rebuilt today, i was quote 309 for a new one or just replace the guts of it for around 80 bucks, so i did that, plus i had it rebuilt about 2.5 years ago and it has worked ever since then so i am going to get it rebuilt to0day hopefully, but who ever invented the mulitmeter is a absolute champion. it was punching out 11 volts so we took it off and taken it down to the auto Electrician,

Hi My charge light keeps coming on and dissapearing! if it comes on i free rev it to about 4500Rpm and it goes away only to come back on shortly, fan belt is tight but it hasnt been replaced for ages, so i am thinking its that, otherwise if the alernator was stuffed it would be on all the time and not dissapear when i rev it to 4500Rpm sometimes 5000RPM and seems to go out when i also brake or stop. Can anyone give me an idea on what too look for or if someone has had the same problem. Thanks

yeah i have changed the bulb in the right tail light and problem has been fixed thanks for all your help!

yeah ok it must be a short somewhere in the brakes maybe i should replace the fuse for the brake and check the lights but any ideas whaty the direct problem could be?? just want places i can look so i can try and fix it asap