camport

What are insulating blocks?

Yeah that's what I thought too, is there any way to tell they're stuck on? Here's two pics of the choke setup one with the tops on and off. When the chokes ( in pic 1 ) are pulled back the idle drops significantly to stall. As you can see in pic 2 the choke plate thing, the holes are lining up. Is that how it's meant to be? I changed them around and assembled them so they werent so they would effectively open it the chokes were pulled, but the car wouldn't start.. p.s ignore the rtv its temporary

Thanks for all the replies. Could you explain to me how to go about checking this? I'm still learning about carbs it's going good so far, good things to know about..

Doesn't seem to be anything mentiond in that thread ie loose venturis. I would post a thread there but i've been waiting days for my account to be enabled don't think it's going to happen.. Still looking for an answer :y:

Thanks I'll have a read^ re : 1st reply - Yeah I'm pretty sure they're balanced, the rpm increase is 10 seconds after the motor is turned on not straight away. I will get them dyno tuned but I just need to get it idling better so I can drive it to the shop. I'm just running out of things to fiddle with, as I said the idle screwed is backed fully off. Oh I should have mentioned - The idle mixture screws do NOTHING whether they are fully in, seated or fully out... usually they should be making quite a change if they are played with.. Thanks

Hey I've got a 5k with a few bits and pieces done, had a pair of 40mm solex sidedrafts on until one of them became unusable. Was looking for another pair of sidedrafts for a while and must have been the worst time because it took me 2 months and had to get some from the other side of the world. Got a similar pair of 40mm solex sidedrafts. I have put the jets, air correctors and emulsion tubes from my old set into my new set just because they seemed to run okish at least and I can always get them tuned. After having a problem with the car idling high once motor turned on (2000rpm - 3000rpm) put it down to a balance issue with the linkages. They appear to be balanced now because once the car is turned on the idle is 1000rpm (although this is with the idle screw backed completely off) on the throttle linkages so I don't know how normal that is.. BUT - now after 10 -15 seconds of having the motor running the revs rise to 2000rpm all of a sudden. I was thinking an air leak? After searching online I read to spray wd-40 around the intake manifold and carb manifold and around vaccum hoses etc which I have done but have found no change in the pitch or running of the motor so I'm not even sure if there are any leaks. Kind of hit a brick wall with this one.. can anyone offer any advice?

Would welding it be wise? If I want to 'upgrade' though, the previous question still stands.

Hi Motor is a worked 5k (twin sidedrafts, cam, headers etc) Recently after a warm up squeeling would start upon deceleration from the carb closest to the firewall. It gradually got worse. First tightened any bolts around intake and manifold but they were all secure, then noticed fuel on my hand under the said carb. Next feeling around, a piece of the manifold fell into my hand (notice hole and piece bottom of pic) Not to sure what caused this but I guess it would have been pretty bad if I was driving when it decided to fully go. Anyway - I'm now in search of a new set of sidedrafts but i'm still learning and don't know what I should be looking for.. I already have the manifold for them which is a redline so I hear that fits solexs, dellorios and webers. When I look at ads for twin sidedrafts the specs include ; Pump jet 35 Idle jet 59f21 Main jet 120 E-tube F47 Air corrector 150 Choke 30mm Could someone please point me in the direction of what I should be looking to match up between my carbs and the new set to know they will work properly or what measurements I should be doing, I've been told to just replace the jets from mine into the new ones etc - will that work? Thanks

Haha, I know that guy I'll pass on this thread to him for you.

Hey man i've built a ke26 from the ground up everything. I can tell you taking out a ke20 dash is an art. It got me in a furious rage many of times. I took out my windshield so had easy access to take my dash pad out. Needless to say nothing ever lines up good enough once it all goes back in again. The main problem i've struck is the damn glovebox lid(at the top) hits the under dash plastic trim and fails to open :abuse:

Nice choice, i've had various 15x6.5 and 15x7's on my ke26 with a range of offsets and have all been good. Only problem i've ever run into was needing longer studs for some. I got them made here in NZ by a suspension specialist, gave them my original hub and supplied new shocks and my choice of spring.

A lot of 15's will fit. A word of advice, DON'T get coilovers. I learnt out the hard way after spending huge coin on rims and coilovers to find that the rims did not fit anymore because the tyre hit the spring platform. Nothing a 165/50/15 on a 15x7 didn't fix :y: :hmm: :jamie:

Anybody know of any rear shocks that will fit in a ke26 wagon? Trying to find a replacement without going new and I can't find any ke26s wrecking. Thanks

My NA 5k dyno'd at 89kW, how does that compare to some other 5ks on here?

I'm in New Zealand :lol:!!

God dammit I just painted my ke26 that color was hoping noone else would.

Have searched through this forum and a few others but havn't had too much luck. Suspension is something I haven't had too much experience with and i'm keen to learn. I've got a ke20 which has king springs in it and have brand new shocks. I want to make adjustable front suspension but really need an in-depth explanation on what I need to do and acquire. I'm talking about making an adjustable platform/sleeve etc for it, I know most of the parts can be bought at a place called george stocks here or the like, but I don't know what I need or what I need to measure. Any help appreciated

Hey mate I started this thread under a mates account, thanks for the advice, I think I will take my front hubs off and get them machined on a lathe to fit the simmons.

Hey I'm holding an original sales brochure here and this is what is says; (Obviously weight will differ so take it with a grain of salt) Dimensions and weight: Overall length : 3980mm. (156.7 in) Overall width : 1505mm. (59.3 in) Overall height : 1405mm. (55.3 in) Kerb weight : 765kg (1685 lb) Hope that helps, it has a shitload more info too