migz808

Its the opposite over here. We don't have any 4 door 71-74 wagons. I've only seen one in the forums and the owner was from Hawaii.

Thanks, glad you guys like it. It is built for daily use and most importantly for fun. Not the most beautiful body out there, but its fine with me. I'm all about spending the money to make the car run and handle better. I would definately love a decent paintjob, but IMO I think its perfect the way it sits. The cops over here don't really trip over these kind of cars unless you are drifting and running amuck out on the open streets. Its perfectly legal to have these here. If you are talking about engine swaps you can pretty much stuff anything on these cars as long as they are 1975 and older vehicles here in California. 1975 and older vehicles here do not have any smog checks. Some states are stricter than others and it really depends what state you are in.

Well I have not been lurking here for a while, but I acquired a 1971 TE28/KE26 last year. It has a 4AGE swap with a T50 trans. Motor is a redtop 4AGE from a 1st generation MR2 and so is the complete wiring harness and ECU. The T50 trans is from a GTS AE86. The front suspension is also from an AE86 with T3 camber plates and Ground Control coilovers. I'm planning a future R&P swap from a Starlet KP61. The rear is stock and planning to match it to a GTS AE86 LSD complete rear. I'm trying to find a old 74-75 Corolla 10bolt rear, but they are rare as hell. I have 13x7 and 13x8 Enkei Apaches wrapped in Sumitomos with a lil' bit of tire strtching. The body is pretty much what I call a "Frankenstein". The original doors and rear tailgate were trashed. So I pulled some clean ones from a TE21/KE20 and fixed the tailgate. I have some original new Hond/Acura Type-R seat which I scored years ago from a wreck. Anyways thats all for now and some pics are below. Cheer, Mike!!! slammed: Original struts with cut springs: AE86 fronts: T3 camber plates: Suzuki GSXR can: With 14" Watanabe rims: Recent pics: my old KE20: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=19862#entry243819

got it finally running. needs more fine tuning... here is a short vid: here is the old motor:

So wire A and B just leave unconnected? Medicine Man can I please see a picture of your setup? Thanks!

I did a search, but my electrical dizzy swap comes from a Starlet(kp61). I am doing an electric ignition swap on my KE20 and just need some things cleared out before I go on with the swap. Below are some pictures to make it easier to describe. A. I know this connects to the distributor B. Positive? C. Ground? D. This is my original distributor on my KE20, not really sure where this would connect to on my electrical ignition setup. Does it connect to wire A or B maybe?? E. Not really sure if this ignition coil will work with my Starlet distributor. This is from another model.

The thing that looks like a bumper is actually a parts of the ugly "safety bumpers" that were put on some American marketed late Ke20s and Te27s. I'm using the TE27 diff. on lowering blocks with the original KE20 series leaf springs. The TE27 diffs here are not that hard to get. I was lucky enough to get 2 of them for free from 2 of my friends here. I never really noticed that, but yes the cable is on the same side. :poke:

Been slow lately on the progress but I was able to relocate the battery in the trunk. I bought a battery box, 12 ft. 4 gage wire, 12 ft. 10 gage wire(for accesories), battery terminals, and a bunch of zip ties. It cost me less than $60 to do the battery reloaction materials. There is no inline fuse for the accesory power line so I installed (40 amp) one for safety precautions. You can get them locally or of course Ebay for less than $10. $8 battery box. Holes for the main cable and holes to hold down the box itself. Battery box mounted. Inline fuse.

Cheers and thanks all for the compliments. The engine came with the car when I bought it. It is an new old stock rebuilt motor from Japan. BTW how do tell if its big port or not?? Only difference I see from my old 3K is the water outlet behind the head. The suspension setup from the AE86 is pretty simple. Just use the Ke20 tophat and a pair of TE27 steering arms. I think there might be a + or negative camber offset, but can be solved by a pair of camber plates.

Motor and tranny together: Ready to put the motor/tranny back in: Motor back in and test fitting the carby setup: Carby with trumpet hitting the sensor a bit beneath the master cylinder. It night be a more tight fight when the gaskets are all mounted on the intake and the carby. I think it should be OK. Next step is the suspension. The KE20 came with a 4x110 bolt pattern and its a real pain in the ass to llok for rims. So I'm going with a AE86 fronts with coilovers and a TE27 rear. More to come!!

I have been working on my Peanut for the past few months bit by bits and so far I'm %75 done. My car came with an extra rebuilt 3K motor when I purchased the car. I was going to put 4AGE in it, but decided at the meantime since money right now is pretty tight the rebuilt 3K would sufice fro now. The car came with a K40 4speed tranny, but I was lucky enough to get a K50 5speed tranny from a Starlet at a local salvage yard. The K50 bolts right in with no modifications needed. I am also putting in a dual Mikuni 40s sidedraft setup with my stock motor. I also have a K series header, but I am having clearance issues because of the steering box on the way. For now the stock exhaust has to be used. I am plannig on doing a Starlet rack and pinion conversion in the future to solve the header clearance or I might just have my dad order me a custom made header back in the Philippines. If anyone can source one to fit a KE20 with the steering box in the way please let me know. Also if anyone out there have a single side draught manifold please let me know. In the beggining: My old dirty engine bay: Tear down: The engine hoist :dance1 (my cousin, Nick, pitured here helped me yank out the motor with a solid drain pipe): The old 3K (still running, I'm going to work on a 4K block and 3K head combo to have on the side) Motor out: Engine bay prepped. I got rid of all the grease, grime, and sanded out most of the rust: My weapons of choice for the engine bay paint job: Primer & Paint: Tagged: Finished engine bay ( I'm no paint expert, but the results came out better that I expected) Fresh old stock crate 3K: Transmission ( Left: K50 - Right: K40): Carby ( Notice one of the carby has been hacked :bangin: :cool: to death, but I have an extra one. The header is for a K series motor, but I have clearance issues with the steering box):

Aybody have a link or copy of a KE20 wiring diagram? Just need to figure out some probs with the ignition wiring. Thanks, Mike

Thanks, Redwarf! There is still plenty of classics out here in Calipornia. All being gobbled up tho since everyone wants to roll ole skool. Even rare to find a K series Corolla over the T series. Really glad I found this forum. I can relate more since mine is a K series Corolla and everyone here back home are mostly Ts. As for the K50 that I am trying to get I might as well pick up the driveshaft since its going cheap.

My name is, Mike and I recently bought a 74 Ke20 with a 3K/K40. I stumbled on this site while looking for some tech infos on my Ke20. I am doing a swap from a K40 to a K50 and I've read the write-up on the "Knowledge Base" about the swap. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...s/K50_into_KE20 I am getting a K50 from a Starlet and my only question is that if I need the driveshaft from the Starlet as well or will the stock Ke20 drivesahft will do? Thanks in advance!! BTW here is a picture of my bucket: