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Posts posted by Tiger
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hahahahahaha! too funnny, Felix :)
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OK... Sponsored by Audiopipe. :)
I'd be curious to see how this looks (more how it sounds.. I'm not familiar with Audiopipe, to be honest)
Well... have you got pics for us? :P
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At the end of the day.. you're gonna get what you pay for.
You can't buy a genuine 2500WRMS monoblock (example) for like $299 and expect it to produce those kind of figures on your typical 12.8V running power. Watts like that cost mega buck for a reason... because it's ALOT of power. Which is why brands that are reputable will get you to fork out $1100 and above for amps with that kind of power.
You really wanna see what you pay for... pull one apart and look for yourself :)
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If you're going an after market head unit, you're going to run your wiring separately anyway. The speaker wires go directly to the amps, the rca leads from the amps to the head unit and your power/earth leads according.
I'm not so sure about toyota having factory amps in those models, if that's what you're getting at...
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NICE :dance: I'm excited for you too, man! Hope this sounds good for you. I'm confident it will :yes:
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Ported boxes are ones you gotta be careful on how you construct them. Also... it DOES make the difference with what kind of music you listen to. Me, I listen to all kinds of music [ranging from rnb to dance to rock to jazz to latin to reggae (yes... reggae, mun!)], so I opted for a sealed enclosure.
Ported... IMHOP, you'd only use ported if you wanna get loud with either hip hop or trance/rave/techno/electro. You build the box tuned to a certain frequency.. and it does get loud. BUT, the downside of ported enclosures.. they are bigger as opposed to sealed and some drivers require more juice to run them in a ported setup.
From experience with listening to DD subs in some of my friend's cars... some are ported and get DAMN loud. One car I heard a couple of weeks ago as a Barina with 4 x 8" DD (the entry level subs) in a ported setup... my nose hairs were vibrating! So much bass!!!!
Hope this sheds SOME light on your topic of discussion :wink:
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Hahaha. No sweat.. can't wait to try the british brew :yes:
The 8 gauge would've been fine, had you were running a single amplifier. But to be safe, you're better off going this option here.
With this kit, all you'd need to do is lose the supplied 80 amp fuse and get anything over 100 amp. The distribution block I was trying to describe was along the lines of this:
Now, the good thing with this block is that you can keep this even if you were to hyperthetically upgrade your wiring to 0 gauge and still run only 2 amplifiers.. this will allow you to run them easily.
Hope this clears up any confusion, dude :wink:
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NOW you're talking! :wink:
Good pick up on the sub and head unit.
If you can't afford a monoblock, don't stress. Fair enough, a monoblock is a dedicated subwoofer amplifier and would be ideal... but if you don't have enough funds for a monoblock... any 2 channel amplifier with anything above the 2x75wrms power output, bridge the 2 channels together and that'll be sufficient juice to run that particular sub.
For a distributor block, you're only running low powered amplifiers.. and even though there may be 2 of them, you can get away with running 4 gauge power cable down your car (and 4 gauge earth cable... don't forget). The block you should get will be a 2x4g in and 1 x 4g out. AND a fuse near the battery... a MUST!! say 100 or 200 amp fuse on your power cable... if you wanna be safe, go higher but these should be sufficient.
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How do i get the sub to work?
You definitely need a stronger amp to run your sub. What kind of sub do you have in mind for your car?
My CD player only has one RCA out so do i take the RCA out from the CD player plug it into the Pioneer amp and then split it somehow to the sub amp and the parcel shelf speakers or....?If you have the one set of RCA pre outs on your head unit, then you'll need to purchase some RCA Y-splitters. (2 female to one male connectors) That will enable you to connect both amplifiers OR if you plan on purchase perhaps a 4 channel amplifier to run the whole lot. For example, if you purchase say a single 10" or 12" subwoofer, on a 4 channel amplifier you can "bridge" two channels together to run the sub (connect a positive off one channel and a negative off the other available channel) and your two other channels run your 6x9s.
Unfortunately, you wont have separate subwoofer control, so it's going to be running as your normal speakers would. It would mean that you'd have to adjust your gains according and run a low pass on your subwoofer channels. You shouldn't run a subwoofer on full range.
Hope this helps you :wink:
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Break a leg :wink:
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Good stuff! :wink: Cheers for that.
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Bet me to it, Felix... Nice work :wink:
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Good stuff. Glad to be of service :wink:
And I look forward to pics of the install later on :wink:
Enjoy the forum
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How did you go? Did you see the provision for the extra speaker wiring?
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NOOOOOOOOOIIIIIIIIIIICE! :sob:
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I'd double all wiring, wiring connections and check the crossover on the trouble side... If it was an amp or head unit problem, you'd know about it, because both midbass AND tweeter would be affected
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How did you go on this project Corolla KE30? All good? Or still getting your head around it?
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How did you end up going with this install? Did you get it done by Autobarn? Or did you take it elsewhere?
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SeViC.... not a very common brand here at all.... however....
DVD flip up unit.... I'll take a stab at which unit it might be....
this particular model?
If this is it... F**K I'M GOOD!
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Amazing what you do when you look where things lead up to :sob:
That's the way I learnt... I pulled everything apart and saw where things lead up to and put it all back together again :sob:
NEVER failed me yet :jamie:
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Wow... we're getting a few british boys on the scene! This is good! :sob: Welcome aboard, dude :sob:
The single DIN head unit will fit, providing you can source that aftermarket fascia... that WILL make life so much easier for you and it will look alot neater too.
If I were you ... email the boys on this link and ask them where they were able to source that particular fascia for your model rolla. I prefer their one as opposed to the one you sourced off Car Audio Direct.
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To make live easier, install 4" splits in the kick panels. 6" requires fibreglass, as far as I know.
Look forward to the pics :sob:
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Check the back of your head unit. You should have provision for 4 speakers (as pretty much all after markets accomodate for that particular purpose). What brand head unit do you have?
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What's the model number on the Jayacar amp?
My Stereo Setup
in Car Sound
Posted
Because he's bridging 2 channels per sub to get maximum power for 2 subwoofer application.
It's also a cheaper option as opposed to the 2 x monoblock option :wink: