Tiger
Audiophile
-
Posts
2048 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Tiger
-
-
HAHAHAHA! Yeah, that was a while back :)
Looking forward to it. No doubt, there'll be some stories to exchange ;)
-
Should be interesting to see how far these meets have come.... since I organised Rollaclub's first BBQ day for Vic members; which you can see HERE. :)
Put me down, boys :paw:
-
i had a jaycar 8" sub in the back of my car for ages.
plenty of bass.
its all about the box design and the amplifier running it.
my brother wanted the 8" for his ute, so i got his jaycar 12" dual voice coil monster. it rocks my socks.
what you don't need is 2 x 12". its a tiny car, and sure it may be loud, but it proly wont be crisp and actually sound good.
agreed with the alpine comment, i have a pair of type s? splits as well (~200 bucks). sound very nice, need to be amped though.
also not true about the "thick cables", match the cables to the amp/sub yes, but that does not necessarilly mean "thick"....
I'm a firm believer in 2 things.
1) Overkill (hence why I'm going to be running 3 x runs of 0AWG in my Excel) :P
2) If you know that you are going to "eventually upgrade" why waste your cash on something that you're going to "eventually" rip out the interior for and access a second time round to install some better cable anyway. You're better off saving that little bit, spending the extra on something with your while the first time round. And it's there for good. No need to change it over.
General rule of them... if you're running subs, you don't run anything thinner than 4AWG. Obviously, you work out your amp draw and then compare that figure with what the gauge of wire is rated at. However, "better to be safe than sorry = don't be scared to go overkill" .
My 2 cents :)
-
Actually... imaging would be pretty much spot on IF you done three things....
1) used a single driver (like a 6.5" midbass driver or even a not-so-deep 8" woofer) (you'll only have a mono sound, unless you are confident with putting a second one in... but no co-axials!)
2) faced it/them firing towards the back seat dead-on straight.
3) power the daylights out of the midbass/midbasses (my front stage has a controlled mount of 600WRMS going into it on a 2 ohm stereo load per side... I know that may sound like a bit of "french") but with front stage speakers... having "headroom" or plenty of power is a good thing. Especially if you want that tight punchy midbass.
Otherwise... get them in some doors, will ya? :P
-
Thought I'd give this a little bump to double check things were fine around here or not. Forgive me for my absence. But if you guys need whatever.. let me know :)
-
(stretches and yawns)
OK... I'm back from my slumber.... :P
Now, all you'd need to post up is the model numbers of your gear and we can take it from there.
Anybody that's known me long enough on these forums will know I'm FAR from a fan of putting 6x9s WITH subs. You either have one or the other... 6x9s are built for bass with no space. Mixing them with subs... you'll suffer cancellation issues on certain frequencies (or notes).. and frankly.. it'll sound "farty" or noisy.
BUT... you work with what you have. I'd be more inclined to build your front doors to use the 6x9s (excellent midbass up front) and have a 2 channel to power them (or a 4 channel and bridged to feed them even more power. 6x9s can be fed anything around 80WRMS-120WRMS and love you for life. Your 6" speakers... use them as rear fill and run them straight off the "rear" speaker wires on your head unit.. no amp and fade them forward to the front, so they don't pack themselves at high volumes.
Your subs... well... you'll need to help us out with that one. Are the single or dual voice coil? If so, are they 4 ohm or 2ohm?
Lastly.. what kind of music do you listen to?
Cheers :paw:
-
Good stuff :jamie:
-
You can always work with what you got. If that's what you're keen on, just adjust the settings on your amp so you're getting your bass from your subs ONLY and your 6x9s, you can run on a hi-pass filter and thrash them as much as you like afterwards.
Can't wait for the pics. :jamie:
-
Do you have a probe? Or a test light?
-
Any amps connected to the unit? Could be a couple of things, does sound like a short somewhere, though. OR could be a demon in your headunit. Some old school Alpine do show their age after a while...
-
Sounds good.... my opinion... ditch the 6x9s and use the money for a set of splits up front. Why would you want bass from 6x9s when you'll be getting the bass from your sub, true? :jamie:
BUT that's my 2 cents worth :dance:
-
!2mm MDF.. Id be going either 16mm or 18mm and giving those speakers something REALLY sturdy to sit on. BUT, work with what you have and if you still aren't satisfied, you work off that to improve or upgrade.
Seriously.... chuck the idea out the window. UNLESS... there's some 7x10 Kenwood speakers going on ebay for about $100 or less. Those things act as 10" subs without boot space required. They require about 100WRMS to run, but those boltedd down to a 16 or 18mm thick MDF shelf would be MORE than enough without a sub.
You can hook the factory 4" speaker direct to the head unit. That's fine.
If you plan on keeping your 6" splits for the rear alone and you purchase a new set of 4" coaxials for the front, they will be content to run off that amp, no sweat.
Hope this helps :)
-
Welcome aboard to start off with... :)
Well, this is definitely an interesting one. I wont laugh but I'll try to be of help.
If you know that one of your 6x9 speakers are blown, then I'd be building a solid shelf for your 6.5" Kappa splits and bridging both channels on that amplifier to run them. If you give them enough power and have them on a solid shelf... trust me.. you'd be happy with that for now. Then just pick up some 4" 2 way speakers for up front in the factory locations. A pair of Kenwood 2 ways would be fine, you can pick them up relatively cheap.
Your amp is a solid piece of work too. Denon rate it at 30W by 4 channels... but you'll find it's a bit stronger than that!
Does this help you?
-
CD quality is always going to be better than mp3/wma format and/or the like. BUT.... if you want EVEN better quality.. DVD Audio :D That stuff is crystal clear. WAV/FLAC to name a couple of formats, for example.
-
He ended up with the Eclipse. Sounded quite happy with the unit too. :) Either one of those units can put a smile on your face.
-
Nice work, man :)
Well done. Always good to see somebody with an appreciation for audio ;)
Problem.... P9260086.jpg doesnt work ;) It's non-existent or or it's been removed.
-
Replied :)
-
Tonkin's Car Audio
190 Park TCE,
Salisbury, SA 5108
Phone:(08) 8283 0700
I've heard nothing but good feedback from them so far.
See how you go with them :)
-
You can fit 4" or 5.25" speakers in the kick panels (if that's where you mean by near the pedals), anything bigger (6"-6.5") would require custom work (fibreglassing). I'll try my best to locate some shots on hand, but I think off memory that there's a couple of rollas on here with kick panel installs. Run a search on some of the rides or in the car audio section and see how you go.
-
Hey,
Me and my mate are installing everything on monday coming, and i will let everyone know how it went.
no i don't think il be cutting into the metal at the back parcel shelf, if the speakers don't fit then i will need to buy like a pod thingy which sits like 1" high, which i saw at jb hifi for like 20 bucks each. LOL nah i wont be able to put 6" at the front its impossible, cos there are 4" in the dash, and i will put the cadence 4" that i bought in there.
Yep... spacers, they're called :) hahaha. Fair enough. So the reason for not wanting bigger speakers up front is because you don't want to touch the doors, and you'd rather keep speakers in their factory locations. That's cool.
Good luck tomorrow with the install :)
-
The front left one started rattling like crazy, I got so sick of it I took it out, only to find of all things the sound deadening is what had fallen into the speaker and started rattling, but that 5.25" was hard enough to get in there, as far as I've been told a 6" just plain won't fit in a space that small?
that and with the heater on the left, that made it almost impossible to get the damn thing in/out.
I had an idea to get the 6" in (basically screwing the 6" into the front with the cover, rather than using the back like a stock speaker), but does anyone have any suggestions for getting the heating unit out of the way?
6" speakers will not fit in a 5" hole, hence the 2 separate size specifications :) So, you'll cut a hole in the door, or build/buy a door pod to accomodate your 6" driver in mind. That's THAT problem solved.
Question for you.... you want to temporarily remove the heating unit in your car because WHY? :) I'm trying to get my head around this thread, so please school me in lame man's term. hahaha
-
I had some 10" morel drivers in the door of my old ke20 with no fiberglass :)
Mid bass was huge!
Now THAT is impressive :D Much respect for Morels too!
yea sorry guys its a 1982 ke70OK....With regards to your KE70, yeah, the sky's the limit with front door speakers. The only thing holding you back is your imagination with car audio. If you're running 6x9s on your parcel shelf, consider upgrading to a nice pair of punchy 6.5" 2 way split systems. A nice set will soak up a good 60-90WRMS and Alpine 6x9s arent to far off that figure themselves. So I'd ditch the 2 channel and get a clean 75-100WRMS per channel x 5 amplifier to run the lot.. and you SHOULD consider yourself a happy man :)
Anymore assistance with ideas required for the system.... let us know :D
-
You can fit anything from 4" all the way through to 10" (yes... 10" in the doors with a mega load of fibreglass.... it has been done) in the doors... So, take a pick... distinguish what level of can-be/can't-be stuffed you're at.... and go hard.
As asked previously... what car are we looking at here?
-
Nobs.. yell out if you want a hand doing this, dude! You forget who used to do what you do now 3 years ago :lolcry:
And CONGRATS on the wedding :lovin: enjoy the honeymoon too :lol:
Tiger Audio Enhancements
in Car Sound
Posted · Edited by Tiger
Phone number update
OK folks... the time has finally arrived...
Tiger Audio Enhancements has officially become my new business (registered as of the 28th of October 2010); where I am able to install/supply/distribute car audio. Whether it be just a mere cd player installation to a high profile customised installation, I'm doing it all.
As part of my business, I'll be Australia's distributor for Shok Industries (who supply one of the most flexible OFC and CCA cables available on the market today) and I'm in talks with another couple of brands; as we speak. Once the status of dealership is finalised, I'll announce it on the forums pretty much straight away. I'll also be updating my facebook page. Link is here.
NOW, as an introductory offer (and to assist in getting the name out there), mention your login name to me and email it to [email protected] and I'll grant you a 10% discount on your initial purchase of product or install (install applies in Victoria only).
Free quotation and ideas/advise of installation (which can generally be done via the forums regardless).
Details are as follows:
Email: [email protected]
MSN: [email protected]
Mobile: 0412 383 941
Phone/Fax: 03 9437 6293
Thanks for you interest and I look forward to dealing with any of you :)
John Yankovski
Director/Installer
Tiger Audio Enhancements
P.S: News will follow after Autosalon Final Battle (NSW) on November 20th-21st, so keep an eye out. And if your're at Autosalon, feel free to say hi :)