s0oty

Well I removed the dizzy again and rotated the drive gear 180 degrees. Much better now! Cheers TRD ke70. :y: I didn't think that the gear position would make a difference, but it does. Still don't know why it has adjustable cam gears on a stock engine. Someone must have been playing with it at some stage. I have some spare std cam gears (parts from rally car), and I will put them on when I replace the timing belt etc.

Cheers TRD ke70. Yeah I did have the gear off. I did mark it before I removed it and put it on in the same position (I think..... :blush: ) I might have to remove it and try it on the other way round. Thanks for the air gap setting. I couldn't find it in our workshop manual so I just winged it. At a guess I got it at around 18thou or there abouts.

So I've found out that the timing is out. I've tried to get the dizzy in the right spot, but I'm either 1 tooth advanced or 1 tooth retarded. Arrrrrgh!!! :bash: I've also removed the top timing cover and found the cams have adjustable gears ( :dance: ), but when they are on the timing marks the crank is 5 degrees advanced. I can't see how with me just removing the dizzy the timing has changed. It was running sweet-as before. Now, just since this dizzy job, I can't get the timing right :hmm: . I had originally marked the dizzy body to head, and rotor to dizzy body so I could get it in the exact same spot. But now all I get is 1 tooth + or -.

Hi guys Can anyone help please? I've just had to rebuild my dizzy to replace the seal inside it. Now I've got it back together and in the vehicle but it won't rev now. (I did mark the dizzy etc before removing it and have got it back in the exact same position.) It will idle, but only just (450-500rpm). As soon as I touch the throttle it dies. I could only guess the air gap for the pick ups in the dizzy (somewhere about 18-20thou at a guess), So have I got them wrong? Or is there another issue? Does anyone know the air gap for the pick ups? Cheers edit: Sorry, I should've mentioned it is in a AE92 FX-GT Corolla

Even at staff prices they're drug money prices.

I'm after a heater blower resistor for my AE92 FXGT (it has auto a/c). All the ones I've sourced so far have been broken as well. Does anyone know if there is another model that will fit? AE101 etc?

While the motor is out I'm going to re-do brakes set-up. Deciding to use an adjustable pedal box with triple m/c's. Will make hydro clutch mod easier too. What has been used or what is recommended? I know Wilwood has some good set-ups, but which type of set-up would be best? :jamie:

Pic of engine in hole

Cheers Pieman. You've done a good job there. That's given me some good ideas. Here's some pictures of my engine bay with and without motor. (still learning on how to post pics so forgive me if these don't show up) The remote booster is on rh guard just behind headlamp. I should have enough room to mount clutch m/c inline with pedal. I've been given a m/c and slave (i think off a ae85/6) etc so I'll see if that fits.

t50 is a alloy split case 22 spline. I've got the 4age twin carbed as well if that makes a diff to where and what gets used. Looks like either the clutch fork is a cable type of it's been modded to suit cable. I've been wondering where and how firewall is braced for clutch m/cyl. Has anyone got some pics of their swap?

Hi all Who has done this conversion and what bits did you use. I want to do this to my rally car. Running a 4AGE and T50. Cheers

I'll try mine out when it turns up and will let everyone know.

Yeah has anyone used it? http://www.erd.co.nz/products/toyota.html I wanna know as well. Wouldn't mind using it on my rally car instead of modified 4k dizzy.

Found this http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colou..._toyota_A-G.htm

Hi everybody Does anyone know of the paint codes for a 1970 KE25. I'm after the white colour they where painted in. Cheers