shaded_shadows_KE55

the car only cost $300 and there getting to hard to find in any repairable condition. it only cost approx $800 in materials all aprox costings $300 for paint and primer $100 for all the wax and grease remover, tape, plastic, paper, body filler and sand paper, $200 for the interior vynals (doors and dash),fabric (roof lining) and backing wadding (door Trims) $200 spent on led bulbs and resistors (red) for the dash. floor mats. seat covers (front only). its only got 80000Kms still has original engine with matching numbers to the compliance plate.

I'm reparing the dash still ill post up shortly i ran out of cash so things are on hold at the moment. The rear screen is at the tinters as cash is short ill be working my way round the car week by week till all the glass is tinted. i want it drivable on thursday.

Some MORON threw an egg at the car when i was driving last weekend, washed it off however the door needs respraying the damn shell just tore threw the fresh paint can't have any thing nice in this town.

One of the doors finished passanger front a pic of car

The Dash Re-vynaling STRIP I used this heat gun and heated the old vynal I started at the corner and slowley peeled the old vynal off kepping it warm-hot OLD VYNAL all striped reparing cracks i just used sellys quick grip and filled the cracks up not sure how this will work but i guess ill find out DAY 2 here goes i put the dash down on this trolly i placed the vynal on top i then heated the vynal being carefull not to burn the material and gave it a little shape i then used the bolts that hold the dash (soft bit) to the dash (Metal part thats welded to the car) to hold the vynal in place across the back (ill get another picture soon) i went about applying quick grip to the vynal and dash I used the heat gun to mold the vynal, again be carefull not to burn the vynal (sorry i couldnt stop to take pictures glue dryes realy quick) i used the dash face to hold the front down then heated, molded then screwed the dash face to the dash. the partualy finished product. I used wire and card board (yellow and red bit in the center) to hold the vynal down to prevent it from lifting after i heated and molded it Been a while 16/Mar/11 just got stuck in to it again done it again and it worked out a lot better post picks soon. PLEASE don't DO THIS AT HOME JUST PAY THE 500 ODD BUCKS. its just painfull,

EASY DONE IN 10 DAYS GIVE IT A GO AND GIVE YOUR COROLLA A NEW LEASE ON LIFE. Ive Decided to redo all the trims so ere is my first door panel original striping removed cut backing wadding cut vynal i wanted to put red stripes to break the black up a bit glue wadding down glue vynal on finished one three to go a better picture more to come ill do another dash for u guys while I'm at it. ,I'm also going to do a roof lining and covers for the sun visors (or i might just paint them):hmm:

3-1-11 top coated it today here are the pictures

2-1-11 sanded the car with the exception of the passanger side (ran out of time) get it done tommorow hopefully.

1/1/11 car is compleatly primed I'm glad it primed 9:15pm 1/1/11

1/1/11 car is compleatly ready for priming

29 dec 2010 HER ARSE IS SWEET finished repairing the rear end of the corolla and working my way to the front passanger guard hopfully in primer tomorrow.

28 dec 2010 suprised how much rust is in this car I'm still working my round the arse end i got the whole passanger side to sand and prep yet, don't think 10 days is long enough, SO MUCH DAMN RUST

26 dec 2010 drivers side ready for priming there is a lot of rust in the rear qtrs, arches and round the tail lights all repaired now roof had three dints in it and the doors were perfect, no dints at all (picture will go here) Tomorow is going to be a big day there is a substantual amount of rust around the boot seal even parts missing compleatly. lots of welding and manufactuing to repair the neglect of previous owners however it has 80,000 km ORIGINAL hopefully worth it

THIS CAR BELONGS TO MY PARTNER IT IS NOT MY CAR Attempting to do respray and pimpage on ke 55 1980 4 door in 10 days Original pic of car striped this car out in approx 4 hours swaped bonnet for a better one i had. pictures of car striped out roof lining removed

the ones mounted in the dash where old speedo and other guages were a little harder to see. however the three smaller ones outside are easy to see. see this pic below theres plenty of glare you can see whats going on.

which disks are u using for ur ke35.....any alteration...???? they are simmalar to a brake kit for a AU Falcon. I payed $1400 for the adaption kit that bolts on to the original strut tower. updated Post above

How does the SR go in there? trust me its a lot of work i will be posting more info up on it shortley.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES With Bigger Power Comes Bigger Brakes i went searching and found these guys they are by far the BEST company I have ever ordered parts off! i had the kit in 2 weeks for ke55 strut assembly however i noticed this I had Diffrent struts than they expected so i sent it back and they manufactured a set to sute me. with longer studs and in four stud pattern. I asked for them to grease the bearings which they did at no extra cost.:dance: Before During After

Engine Conversion SR20DE Conversion. This is my engine specifications. Standard SR20DE from Nissan Silvia S-13 Flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and gearbox from Nissan Serena Van.(a SR20 powered Van) Cortina engine mounts. Engine on engine lift. Engine going in. Engine in. I had modified the cross-member similar to this one. I then went about modifying the wiring loom. This is the diagram I used. This is where my wires go. Red Round Thing is fuel pump. This is a picture of the wiring. A small part up to 42+ wires. . I went about connecting everything up which was a massive undertaking this is what i had to do. Put a bigger pick up in the fuel tank. what you see here is the pick up with a pre filter on it. Run a bigger fuel line (stainless steel) Fit a fuel pump. Red round thing on picture and insert (Standard VL pump as this car is non turbo) Run a breather line from fuel tank to charcoal canister. Attach fuel line to motor. Attach return line to motor. ( this line is the original send line that went to the standard 4K motor) Modify and attach the throttle cable. NO PIC AT THE MOMENT Make and fit air filter box. (air box made out of high temp tolerant perspex by Rooney G Plastics Wagga) Order a 92 Nissan pulsar radiator with the inlet and outlets swapped I had make a lower radiator mount and had two top radiator mounts jet cut also found some thermo fans. Modify the front grill support. (drilled the four spot welds out and welded two nuts on then fitted it back on so it would be easer to remove in the future) THE SHINY BOLTS ON EACH SIDE (above the horns) Fit my gear shifter. This shifter is from a Nissan Serena Van I used cable linkages as this let me fit the shifter anywhere in the car I wanted. Instead of using the standard s-13 gearbox which would come up between the seats. I also did not have to modify the tunnel at all. IN THE VAN IN THE KE55 Get drive shaft manufactured. Connect up wiring loom. Get coolant to the original heater. (see two hoses that go up over the motor in front of the fire wall) Get exhaust constructed and fitted (3peice). joins at the catalitic converter and just before the tail shaft Fit KE 35 wiper washer bottle. (its a little smaller and lets me fit in the central locking and alarm modules between the bottle and the wiper motor) more info and picks will be added in time

Painting under Bonnet and Boot Sorry these are the only picks i have on this subject (poor quality). I striped out engine and stated sanding the area I wanted to paint. I used 240 foam backed paper. General rule of thumb is if its shiny the new paint wont stick. Mask up the area you don't want to paint. I used masking tape and a plastic cover sheet. Prime any rub threw as paint wont stick to steel. Then I painted the engine bay black I used a two pack direct gloss enamal approx 1Ltr. Finished outcome I removed The bonnet and boot. I sanded the original paint (240)and masked up the areas I didnt want painted I then primed the surface. Then sanded.(240) Then topcoated direct gloss black. Under The Boot lid Under The Bonnet

interior I stuck with the original interior for a long time then when I decided to updated I approached Riverina Custom Auto Trim & Upholstery in Wagga Wagga. They made these sweet seats for me. I also at this time decided to get new carpet, new roof covering, and new vinyl on the doors and dash original dash (a little modified) after revinyling i also got new guages (more info in engin conversion part of this post (ill add a short cut here))

Wheels and Tyres: Advanti 17in Flash 2 rims painted centres fitted with Maxxis 215/40 Z R17. To do this was simple. I just mask up the areas I didn't want to sand then I sanded the bits I do. I used a 240 wet and dry, unmasked them it and cleaned them, masked up the bits I didn't sand. I wax and greased (prepsole) the rim centres then primed (2 pack primer) the centre of the rim. I then sanded with 240 wet and dry, wax and greased, then painted in a gunmetal grey/black direct gloss Before painting (I have lost the original picture so here is one from the net ) After painting Full picture

PAINT after the dints were repaird (this took me about a month or so) I masked it up and primed it, I had axcess to the paint booth at the local tafe as i as doing and apprentiship in vehicle painting. It was then sanded, masked up and had the first coat of base coat applyed followed with a coat of prizmatiqe pigment then coated with clear coat this is what the prizmatique looks like after un masking and put outside