[5K Dip Stick Length!]

Mine is 240mm from the F mark to the rubber flange where it touches the block tube .which is the same as a 4k

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

Drives great ,with the 5k even with the low compression off boost (2500 rpm) would be just like a NA 4k .With boost very different .The supercharged 4k had a lot of torque down low ,but this is very similar .Often go around corners in 3rd,4th gear & just accelerate away as if it was in 2nd .Have to be careful if the road is wet it will spin in every gear inc 5th if you accelerate too hard .

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

About time I did a bit of an update .I replaced the std carbie with a 34adm weber from a 4.1 falcon as I made the manifold to suit that carbie .It improved the boost & power straight away as the std carbie was a bit of a restriction. I've added a manual boost control & can easily take it past 20psi now the std carbie would only let me get 15 . I've replaced the 5k head with a well ported 4k to lower the compression .Some problems have poped up .The clutch is not happy a HD one is to be fitted & the normal manifold gaskets not liking the boost but all just little things to sort out as I get time .Attached is a pick after a bit of hard running the manifold is still glowing red as I let the motor idle & cool down

[Ke55 Auto To Manual]

3 year old post :lolcry: wonder if it is still an auto or car is still on the road !

[4K Rebuild Kit Unknown Parts]

The measurements confirm it. As I said above it is the seal that goes into the oil filler cap screw on type .

[4K Rebuild Kit Unknown Parts]

The rubber one looks like it is the seal inside the oil filler cap screw on type .

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

hey man completely new to toyotas ( well this old anyways )

just bought a ke70 rolla with a 5k 5 speed in it.

I'm looking to turbo it asap

so here is my questions if you wouldnt mind answering them :(

 

1. how much $$ we talking obviously depending on what i get the turbo for but I'm talking more like carby setup, fabricating the manifolds.

2. were did u get the fabricating done?

3. were or how do u get a carbon sealed turbo can u rebuild a normal turbo with different seals? how does that work?

4. do u run a BOV?

5. i wanna run a ally rad and thermos would i have to up grade my water pump at all?

6.were do u tap the oil line or are u just running a sandwhich plate and if so is that sufficient?

 

thanks man and obviously if i have missed anything else that needs to be done please let me know because i am keen as and have the cash to do this soon I'm located in WA :D

 

kind regards JAI

Hi I made everything myself so no idear what it would cost to get it done by someone. I'm thinking about building a couple manifold kits to sell but that will be in the future & have no idear on price yet.The turbo has to be be rebuilt with a carbon seal fitted .I got the T25 for $200 & a carbon seal rebuild kit for $100 .I rebuilt it myself quite easy but maybe a bit too much if you haven't done anything like that before.

T25 has internal waste gate

up grade water pump ? why?

oil is taken from oil filter houseing .I drilled & tapped a new port into my houseing but you can just T into the oil pressure sensor

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

You don't need the mechanical advancement on boost, as the timing needs to be backed off.

 

The BTM unit lets you run normal mechanical and vacuum advancement for off-boost drivability. Then as soon as it sees boost it'll stant pulling out timing at your present ratio being 1, 2 or 3 degrees of timing per psi. So if you're running 15psi you can have between 15-45 degrees of retarding.

Mechanical advancement should get up to about 40*, so I think 1* per psi should be fine. Then at full revs on boost you'll be running around 25* which is pretty much perfect.

 

Only problem with the BTM's is they're around $700 retail. If you can get mates rates somewhere you could probably get one for around $400.

 

Yep I know the timing needs to be retarded as the boost increases .I have another idea for that just at this stage with std compression it has to be retarded a far bit to stop detonation & the bit of playing I have done so far indicated the hp increased a far bit with a little more advance .First I want to stop the detonation hopefully to the point that I can advance to where the hp drops without detonation .Then put it on a dyno find the correct advance/retard curve & go from there .To retard it I'm going to make /modify the vac advance to retard from boost reference .Being a fitter & Turner I can turn up a new bell (will need need to be very small in diameter 15psi will have a lot of force may even be just a small shaft & o ring seal )for the advance give it enough travel & change springs to suit. A bit of mucking around but it is easy to work out how much travel is needed to retard 1deg. Then say it is 1mm per deg to be able to retard 20 deg’s I’ll need 20mm travel & the correct diaphragm & spring to give 1mm travel for every psi .Sounds simple but I know it will be a nightmare getting the right spring to do what I want . The rate of retarding you suggest above is right on the mark and I’ll be aiming at those figures.

Anyway there is a lot of work there to do as I get things sorted I'll post up the results.

Thanks for the input

Cheers

Steve

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

Hi

Yeah I have thought about useing one but I want to try an get full mechanical timing at boost also .The injection setup is cheap nothing to loose maybe lots to gain .

 

Cheers

Steve

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

As all have said love the setup and how stealth it looks. You really would just think its just a standard engine bay if you didn't know better. :P I also like the idea of being able to convert back to NA in a couple of hours easily. Draw through makes things so much simpler.

 

Had it on a dyno yet?

 

Surely there would be a bit more to be had out of it with a small weber. They can make a bit of difference on a stocko NA one so I do see why you wouldn't get half decent gains on this. Maybe even to stick with the stealth look you can have a look at another members stealth EFI system from an early falcon. I'll find you a link.....

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18354

 

Hi I haven't had it on a dyno yet still want to do some improvements The webber will be going on and addapting the ke70 aircleaner to fit it so it will still look stock.But I can't get over how well it goes with the little asian .I thought I would be down on boost but it flows enough to make 15psi.I looked into brodies efi setup back in 2008 (my name says I'm new here but I've been on rolla club for years just don't post :D )I got all the info from him about it as I planned back then to use that setup with a blow through .But I then went supercharged & put the turbo on hold till now. The next step at this stage is the water injection only real option with draw through (can't use an intercooler) so I can up the timing which should make a bit more of an improvement over the carbie.It goes so much harder with only a couple more deg's added but then the pinnging starts.

 

Cheers

Steve

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

Thanks Justin

The std pump was fine with the dellorto it flowed enough and never leaned out. I used the corolla pump that has a return to tank bult in so there wasnt too much pressure on the needle & seat but I did restrict the return fitting on the pump to give me a bit more pressure than std. With the draw through you don't have to worry about boost pressure affecting the carb like in blow through just have to make sure it flows enough . Also just added a couple new picks one of the diff I just fitted & the turbo now that it is wraped

 

Cheers

Steve

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

No never found out who did it that was about 6 years ago .Only thing I was thankfull for was that they didn't take the mx13 corona mk2 that was beside it which has been in the family since new . The turbo is a garret t25

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

It was I tried to ues as much as i could from the old car. I even got the origional white on black QLD number plate number as personalised plates means nothing to anyone else :dance:

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

Yeah the first pick is the shell that is now the red sprinter .Then the ke15 that was burnt out .I was the the third owner to that when I got it I was still an apprentice 19 years old it my 2nd car i'm now 44 it was a very very good origional sl sprinter. other picks are the engine modes I've done

[Ke15 5k Turbo]

Thought it was about time to put up a Rides post about my current ke15.I started rebuilding it in 2008 .I first got the shell as a spare parts car for the ke15 I had at the time. I never planned on rebuilding it, as it was not that great a shell .It was only ever going to be a parts car for panels etc should something unthinkable happen to my good one. Well the unthinkable happened one night while I was out my house was broken into & my ke15 was used as the getaway car .Latter to be found as a burn out shell in the local pine forest .A few years passed till I finally got the bug again to drive a ke15 .So I decided to rebuild the old shell I had sitting there for parts .I used the front guards / motor and whatever else I salvaged from the burnt out wreck .I finished it with the intention of useing it as an everyday car not an original to go to car shows .(I got one for that half way through this rebuild + another good one all after I started this rebuild)

So it gets some modifications.

Brakes are ke35 discs with a duel circuit gallant master cyl

k50 gearbox while it lasts

First motor setup was the original 4k from the burnt car with a sc14 & 45 dellorto draw through setup.

Worked well ran 10psi boost was fun to drive could switch off the blower & still worked well .I made a second set of pulleys for 15psi but didn’t get the results I was hoping for. It went harder but I didn’t put enough time into turning it & always planned on water injection so the timing could come back up a bit .In the end I just drove it till I found a crack in the manifold so it was time for my second idea to be used.

5k turbo a bit different to what I have seen posted here. I liked the look of the blower but it stood out too much when the bonnet was opened (no mod plate ) I wanted the turbo to sit down low and use a draw through so from the top just looks like a std carbie setup .I’m useing a T25 carbon sealed turbo just the std Asian carbie at the moment but I made the manifold to use a 34adm Webber .Currently running 15psi boost it performs a far bit better than the 4k did supercharged . But the blower had it all down low where this is from 3000rpm up.

Just fitted a new slightly bigger diff it’s a Borg Warner from a corona st141.Only used it as I had it sitting there and was a 4.11 ratio + I knew it was in good condition .I had to cut it down 120mm & change the stud Patten to 4x110 & change the mounts . A far bit of work for only a slightly better diff .I’m going to do another one 28 spline Borg Warner 78 cheap & strong.

The next mod is to install water injection so I can increase the timing & boost without it pinging.

Also put a 34ADM Webber on but at the moment I can’t get over how well it goes with only the std Asian

I always planned to build a motor just for boost (5k with 4k head )but want to try the water injection first as i know a k will handle a lot of boost as it is but only when it has it’s timing backed right off + the water injection works so well with old school boosted 6&:dance: .Then it is just a bolt on/off setup to any k motor .I have set it up with an exhaust flange so I can bolt up the turbo or the std carbie & extractors in a couple of hours.

Well there is a lot of words so now for some picks

[Ke10 Rubbers]

I got two sets from lilavadee about a year ago one set is on one car as you can see from the picks they didn't last an that is with the car

garaged .Door rubbers are better but are a bit too hard you have to slarm the door to get it to close even after a year (new rubbers do make it hard to close door at first but after a month or three start to come good not these) Boot rubber is ok if you get the right glue not normal contact get the right stuff from clark rubber it will work .I have a spare set of front & rear rubbers for a ke15 that I'm not going to use if anyone wants them at a great price front is same as a ke10 .It's a bit hard to complain to the seller in Thailand a year down the track that the rubbers you got are no good .Would be nice to at lease get 5 to 10 years out of them before they crack that bad that you worry that the trim strips may fall out let alone the window.The pictures don't lie and both front & back rubbers are in the same condition.

[Cfm And Carbs]

Forgot to add I put that larger 4 barrel carby on an 18RG an it worked great .So much so I did a second one for a friend unfortunately I don't take any picks but it was a complete aluminum manifold not a modified std one. Both were in 80 model 4x4 hiluxes so if anyone comes across a custom 4 barrel Nikie carby on an 18rg you know who made it

[Cfm And Carbs]

Sides work well my current project is a 45 Dellorto on a sc14 in a ke15 but for the first post there is a nice larger 4 barrel from the latter 12a Mazda’s that would go well on a 3t but you can't just bolt on an adaptor plate to a std manifold an get the goods .It will go on there but that’s about all .You have to enlarge & fabricate to make it work right & then tune it .If you don't have the skills to DIY it will cost too much .Go off the shelf after market which will be side draft or a two barrel Webber

[Cfm And Carbs]

4 barrel always seems hilarious to me on a 4 cylinder.... I just keep thinking of funnels..... really, four barrels tapering into a tiny manifold........ two barrel downdraught or side draught carbies make more sense...

 

Robert.

 

4 Barrels work great .About 20 years ago when i was still an apprentice I modified a stand 4k manifold to take a 4barrel Mazda rotary carby from a 10a (see attachment if it uploads ) if you think about the stand twin 3k/4kB carby setup it is just a 4 barrel cut in half and the carby I used has just a bit less cfm as the two Asians that Toyota used it also had vacuum secondary’s but you don't have to balance it like you had to with the twin carbs. The primaries were a bit smaller than the Asians so it had good response & the secondary’s were about the same .I didn’t just bolt on an adapter plate to the stand manifold .I milled it open & re fabricated a new plenum chamber to match the 4 barrel so it wasn’t a funnel an flowed well.

[All Japanese Day Qld]

QLD All Japanese Day 14Th June 2009

location Cnr Tuffnell & Earnshaw RD Baynyo QLD

Would be good to see some QLD rolla cars there

There is a pay on day option but if you do choose it don't expect to get best position

Get in now for a good position

I have plans on getting two ke15's to the show

$20 per car 15 trophies up for grabs don't ask me for details contact Alan Taylor on [email protected] or

PH 0416312189

 

[Door Hinges.]

wont nolathene wear out rather quick?

wheres this bush for? is it the bush around the pin or something different?

 

cheers, andrew

Hi I'm the fella doing the re-bushing. Ke10 hinges are cast steel with a large bearing area in the centre of the hinge perfect to have a full length bush inserted .The pin is a press fit in the shorter outer half's of the hinge & pivots in the longer centre section about 50mm .The original set-up used two small plastic bushes top & bottom of the middle section about 10mm long I put a full length bush made out of simular material as original. Later model hinges are pressed steel with only a small bearing area the steel plate is punched down to increase the plates thickness usually by about half but still only about 5-8mm bearing area sometimes a longer bush is also put in about 10mm long it has to be made of a bronze material because it doesn't have any support along it's full length only where it goes through the steel plate. I can re- bush both & do it same as origional or in the case of the ke10 maybe a little bit stronger .

 

I'm not doing this as a business I sent a PM to help out a Fellow ke10 owner :lolcry:

[5 Speed!]

If anyone goes there & finds all the 5 speed boxes sold but a shifter on the floor of each car :cool: grab a shifter for me I'm after a 5 speed shifter post to Brisbane will pay + freight .

Cheers

Steve

[Ke1x Members Page]

Steve you have some nice cars there. :lolcry:

 

Is the overrated red one Lou's old car?

Yeah it's Lou's he came around about 12 months ago to have a look at the old girl .I got it from leon in melb last year .When Lou was here he talked about a ke16 wagon he just picked up that had the fire wall cut back & had a t50 box with a k bell housing. Turned out to be one of my old cars that I put a 2TEGU into in about 1987.I gave it to my g/f at the time so I put a 4k back in & left the T50 box as I had one of rare 4k bell houseings .Wish I had it now! there are picks of it on stewarts old corolla page.

[Ke1x Members Page]

Name: steve

 

Cars: 3x1969 KE15,1975 corona mk2 origonal family owner ,

 

 

Motor & Driveline: one with k one with 3k one with 4k

 

Suspension & Brakes: all with front disks one with ke35 disks & duel master cyl

 

Wheels & Tyres: one with origional 12" other two with 13 "

 

Interior: one very origional SL other 1 almost as good to be restored as SL other custom being restored every day drive

 

Update every day drive now has a blower :lolcry:

Update1/7/10 origional ke15 sl sold now living in Ireland & Blown setup now replaced with 5k turbo new picks added.