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stevejw last won the day on October 18 2013

stevejw had the most liked content!

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About stevejw

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    Regular Poster (Caption Editable Now)
  • Birthday 01/24/1966

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    brisbane (Caboolture)

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  1. Yeah it was a tight fit i had to heat wrap all of it to keep the heat from the starter motor & the inner guard .It worked well till i got silly & poped the head aroung 20psi .Shame lost interest after that.It's now deregistered waiting for the day I need to play again .
  2. That was my ke15 sprinter .Wouldn't say it was easy very tight in a ke1but doable and all custom .
  3. Mine is 240mm from the F mark to the rubber flange where it touches the block tube .which is the same as a 4k
  4. Drives great ,with the 5k even with the low compression off boost (2500 rpm) would be just like a NA 4k .With boost very different .The supercharged 4k had a lot of torque down low ,but this is very similar .Often go around corners in 3rd,4th gear & just accelerate away as if it was in 2nd .Have to be careful if the road is wet it will spin in every gear inc 5th if you accelerate too hard .
  5. About time I did a bit of an update .I replaced the std carbie with a 34adm weber from a 4.1 falcon as I made the manifold to suit that carbie .It improved the boost & power straight away as the std carbie was a bit of a restriction. I've added a manual boost control & can easily take it past 20psi now the std carbie would only let me get 15 . I've replaced the 5k head with a well ported 4k to lower the compression .Some problems have poped up .The clutch is not happy a HD one is to be fitted & the normal manifold gaskets not liking the boost but all just little things to sort out as I get time .Attached is a pick after a bit of hard running the manifold is still glowing red as I let the motor idle & cool down
  6. 3 year old post :lolcry: wonder if it is still an auto or car is still on the road !
  7. The measurements confirm it. As I said above it is the seal that goes into the oil filler cap screw on type .
  8. The rubber one looks like it is the seal inside the oil filler cap screw on type .
  9. Hi I made everything myself so no idear what it would cost to get it done by someone. I'm thinking about building a couple manifold kits to sell but that will be in the future & have no idear on price yet.The turbo has to be be rebuilt with a carbon seal fitted .I got the T25 for $200 & a carbon seal rebuild kit for $100 .I rebuilt it myself quite easy but maybe a bit too much if you haven't done anything like that before. T25 has internal waste gate up grade water pump ? why? oil is taken from oil filter houseing .I drilled & tapped a new port into my houseing but you can just T into the oil pressure sensor
  10. Yep I know the timing needs to be retarded as the boost increases .I have another idea for that just at this stage with std compression it has to be retarded a far bit to stop detonation & the bit of playing I have done so far indicated the hp increased a far bit with a little more advance .First I want to stop the detonation hopefully to the point that I can advance to where the hp drops without detonation .Then put it on a dyno find the correct advance/retard curve & go from there .To retard it I'm going to make /modify the vac advance to retard from boost reference .Being a fitter & Turner I can turn up a new bell (will need need to be very small in diameter 15psi will have a lot of force may even be just a small shaft & o ring seal )for the advance give it enough travel & change springs to suit. A bit of mucking around but it is easy to work out how much travel is needed to retard 1deg. Then say it is 1mm per deg to be able to retard 20 deg’s I’ll need 20mm travel & the correct diaphragm & spring to give 1mm travel for every psi .Sounds simple but I know it will be a nightmare getting the right spring to do what I want . The rate of retarding you suggest above is right on the mark and I’ll be aiming at those figures. Anyway there is a lot of work there to do as I get things sorted I'll post up the results. Thanks for the input Cheers Steve
  11. Hi Yeah I have thought about useing one but I want to try an get full mechanical timing at boost also .The injection setup is cheap nothing to loose maybe lots to gain . Cheers Steve
  12. Hi I haven't had it on a dyno yet still want to do some improvements The webber will be going on and addapting the ke70 aircleaner to fit it so it will still look stock.But I can't get over how well it goes with the little asian .I thought I would be down on boost but it flows enough to make 15psi.I looked into brodies efi setup back in 2008 (my name says I'm new here but I've been on rolla club for years just don't post :D )I got all the info from him about it as I planned back then to use that setup with a blow through .But I then went supercharged & put the turbo on hold till now. The next step at this stage is the water injection only real option with draw through (can't use an intercooler) so I can up the timing which should make a bit more of an improvement over the carbie.It goes so much harder with only a couple more deg's added but then the pinnging starts. Cheers Steve
  13. Thanks Justin The std pump was fine with the dellorto it flowed enough and never leaned out. I used the corolla pump that has a return to tank bult in so there wasnt too much pressure on the needle & seat but I did restrict the return fitting on the pump to give me a bit more pressure than std. With the draw through you don't have to worry about boost pressure affecting the carb like in blow through just have to make sure it flows enough . Also just added a couple new picks one of the diff I just fitted & the turbo now that it is wraped Cheers Steve
  14. No never found out who did it that was about 6 years ago .Only thing I was thankfull for was that they didn't take the mx13 corona mk2 that was beside it which has been in the family since new . The turbo is a garret t25
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