71-BEETLE-SEDAN

i have one here, for sale if you want, pressure plate and clutch, brand spanking excedy, never even used. Sorry if its hi-jacking

okay all, so I'm up to doing the valve seals, how do i get the spring retainers etc back on????? Ive tried everything possible. I don't wanna have to buy that tool that Ive found people say is useful. spring loaded or something. Ive got the old ones off etc and now i need the new springs back in so i can get this thing done. I'm after even just a picture of the way others have done it. I'm at my wits end with this bit, everything else is easy as. Cheers

So after having to buy two more 10 mm sockets, because the four bolts that hold the valve covers on needed a deep socket, so bought one yesterday, got the cams out and then my 12 point wouldn't fit down to the head bolts, so now i got 3 ten mm sockets. But its fair to say Ive definitely done the head-gasket on this thing. But on a good point picked up my new water pump, thermostat, timing belt, oil, filter, gearbox oil, new braided line for my oil cooler, catch can, thermos and some of the coolant hoses from auto pro. Will get photos of that later.

Not a track car, just that no one else is ever in the car with me. So if i am comfortable with it then its good. I am thinking that a new alloy or at least new stock radiator, new hoses all round, new thermostat, new water pump, new coolant, extra thermos, relocated oil cooler, new gaskets all round. Should fix the issue. Mainly because well what else could cause the car to overheat? This car has no air-con already, so at the moment air flow is front bar, oil cooler, radiator.

i was going to heck the water temp with a thermometer, but my radiator has a funny cap and sometimes wont open very easily when hot, so i put it hard against the core and it was around the 100'c. So definitely getting hot. Ive been reading up on some track drift cars for my own one and have read about a lot of people removing their heaters.Is this a smart idea for a daily, besides the fact i wont be able to warm the inside of the car up. But i often like to flick the heater to on while doing mountain runs etc to get that little bit of extra cooling. Would this be saving my ass r just making inside the car hotter then it needs to be. I am also borderline on getting an alloy rad with twin thermos, yay or nay?

So heads on its way off now. Thought id throw up some pics of the cai while I'm taking snaps of the bay. So here the view from inside the wheel arch, looking forwards. This is how much of the tubing you can see under the front bar. This is the view from above and inside the engine bay. No to the head, i took the rocker covers off and the front one had plenty of oil coating nce and wet. The intake or rear side had dry/baked on oil. Is this normal? Anyway to fix this? Front Rear

Thought so. Well lucky ive got a half built cylinder head here, ready to go on.

Well i just got off the pone with the local auto pro, new thermostat, one to open at a lower temp, new water pump, valve seals, blowing a fair bit of smoke, timing belt, and already got a head gasket and new bolts. The radiators exterior looks in great nick, but when i open the cap there seems to be a brown goo on top of the coolant. Like an oily substance. Could i have oil leaking into my water, not the other way round like a normal head gasket failure?

Soooooo, The cars running hot now. I wired up myself a switch, i like the car to run at around 1/3 of the temp gauge, so id flick the switch to the thermo fan on at about 1/4 and it would run at 1/3 all day, hard driving and stop start. Worked like a dream, for like 3 weeks. Now the car runs a fraction above half, with heaters on full, thermo on, and cruising at like 100 in fifth(for good airflow). Normally i could flick the thermo off and it would run at around 1/4 on the freeway. Now Ive drained the coolant, flushed the cooling system, refilled, made the mix of coolant, 33% water, to the specs on the bottle. What could it be or what could i test to see whats wrong. Could my thermostat be stuck closed? Cheers if anyone can help.

Going down to the wreckers now to gets me a new ecu. Also, the car is blowing quite a bit of smoke on start up and also when I'm fair up it, so most the time. So I'm gonna deck my second head up, new valves/seals/shave it, etc etc. But I'm also thinking i may as well do the whole motor, i remember hearing that a set of pistons car be had for like under $200. What pistons should i get? There is some on eBay for like $160, are they any good, anyone had experience. Other then that the cars still the same

So i got some electrical gauges today, and to wire up the a/f ratio one i want to use the signal wire to the ecu, inside the cabin to make less mess in engine bay. So knowing that everyone says he pin outs are under the lid of the ecu i pulled the ecu out and cover off to find this. Car runs fine, never had an issue with it. And Ive plugged it back in and still runs fine. What should i do? And anyone got a copy of the pin outs, mines missing :(

Heres my paddock basher. Needs the diff welded and a new clutch, then were gunna take it to eastern creek for some skid pan fun.

Oh about the cams, did not know that. I'm thinking ill stay away from engine mods just yet cause i don't really want it off the road just yet. The idle issues seems to have gone away now hat i let it warm up a touch before i drive it. So dunno what that means. As for tyres i went same size as the ones on it now, 195/50R15, but I'm looking at some other rims, same size and everything, just different look, they're black with red highlights, so would suit the car well. So if someone wants some 15 inch rims and tyres they can. They have an offset of 45. I haven't actually looked under the car at all really, quite odd for me, normally Ive got em torn apart in minutes. But i will have to check next time I'm working on it. I might have a play around with the camber, is this the same on the rear end? And front strut brace it has rear seams good enough already so yeah, guess Toyota did their homework there. Havent stripped the interior yet, its coming though, will be leaving not much at all. Will post some photos of the intake and other little mods Ive done lately, ie bonnet pins,

Coil overs = Ordered Tyres = Ordered Intake = In process. Where do people get high flowing air cleaners from, Ive tried all over the internet and nothing to suit the stock air box, I'm about to go down to the wreckers get me a civic air box, or something that they make high flows for and fit it up to my car, or is there another source out there? And Ive ordered some flex i tubing to run some brake ducts and a path for cold air straight into the intake box.

Yeah its got a front strut brace, what about a rear? It was odd, ive driven a charade around the same corner and harder and never had it happen, guess this one is just lighter or something. The car seems to have some pretty fat sway bars on it already, Whats the factory size for these cars front and back. The car already has some pedders shocks and lowering springs, maybe ill sell em to buy the coil-overs, where am i searching for bazda? Chuur

New filter it is then. Yeah i have done a bit of reading and the stock exhaust manifold is good for quite high figures as is the intake manifold, so they don't need changing yet. It has a set of plugs and leads on the way now, purchased today. Also got a quote for some federal 595s today, pretty stoked about that, now its time to get em cheaper. And i was driving fast the other day, and come around a corner a bit to hot and the arse end slipped out a bit, how can i fix this, or do i just gotta go slower? First time its happened to me in a fwd car, used to rear wheel drive cars tho so kept it out of the gutter. Do i need larger sway bars? More camber? Strut braces? Cheers

Okay, so Ive been driving the car around for a bit now and am enjoying it. Now its time has come for the first mod. Camshafts and cold air intake. Ive been reading a lot about it so far and Ive come up with the idea that a set of 246 cams would be the best, don't need an aftermarket computer or anything. Ive been looking at adjustable pulleys too, to make it idle factory smooth again. Ill also do the timing belt while I'm there. Now, which brand should i be on the lookout for,buy them from eBay or online or go to a shop? As for the intake, is there an off the shelf item, or should i buy some flexitube and a run a pod down behind the front bar? Cheers

Got the car Saturday, Drove it home, its such a fun car. So quick compared to others Ive driven and its got some guts up hills etc, something I'm not used to. Well here are some iPhone pictures for all. Let me know what you think

Thursday. I've had a few cars last been a ke70 that have all been ghettoed. This is Gunna be my clean daily. I'll be sure to post pics Thursday or Friday depending on weather

Hi all, I'm about to purchase a red ae82, It looks pretty clean but needs some TLC, which ill be sure to give it. But i like loud cars, and going fast in loud cars.So this is were my questions begin. Obviously i haven't got the car yet so i can't post up photos etc. But i would like some questions answered and some pointers given. Ive driven stock fwd small hatches before, like a 1.3l Charade. It was fun but i want my corolla to be done properly, so coil-overs, or similar, headers and a 2 inch system? To a cannon, short shift kit, and some sticky wide tyres. Ill start off buy washing,cut and polish,wax tyre shine etc. Oil and filter, which oil should i run, i like nulon in my other cars, is it okay for this car as well? Probably do the head gasket as its apparently on the way out, quick valve clean up, cam seals, tappet seals and adjust tappets as well, flush coolant system, gearbox oil bleed the clutch and brakes. Etc Etc, make it as close to new as possible. I'm going to start by getting rims first as the car already has a cat back system. Can people link me some photos or post photos of their cars rims and fitment and sizes, or if there is already such a catalog. Ive checked out the tyre calculator etc, i just want to see what it looks like on the car before i fork out. The charade i used to have had 16s on it, they looked about the right proportion to the car, although the front sat a bit high with a few kilos of stereo in the boot. So if i went 16s, i would like to lower the car about an inch or two. Just to sit the car closer to the wheels, close that horrid gap from rims on a stock height car.What widths of 16s are people running on their cars? And if possible offset would be nice too. Id be looking at up grading the brakes around this time id think, as a security measure more then anything. If there's anything i like more about my beetle is the ability to jump on the brakes and come to a halt allot quicker then most cars, i want this same feeling in this one. How would i best achieve this on a low cost basis, not buying massive brakes etc, just upgrading? Next would be tyres, obviously needed so i can fit the rims, what work well on light cars, Ive always gone the cheap option well cause I'm cheap, but I'm doing this one properly, so good tyres it will be. Has anyone had experience with splitting the front and back, say different brands/tread pattern front to back. If so what were the results? The car will see some hard driving up and down mountains and probably track-work. If this makes a difference. Next up would probably be the headers exhaust system. I have a varex cannon sitting next to me ready for this car. I want to get some headers for it first tho and do it all at once. Where have people had the best experience at, eBay, new , site sponsor or scrounge the classifieds? Then, what size pipe should i look at getting installed, 2 inch, 2.5 inch? Mandrel bent or???? Also a quickie, how loud is the 4age, without a muffler or resonator at the end of the headers, will it burble and fart on over run, or not really? On the charade, my beetle, the work van so far all Ive done for a short shift kit is cut about an inch off the gear stick and re threaded and out a knob back on, is this okay? or should i buy a shift kit. This is one of the things that i think makes the car way more fun to drive. Next and probably last of the major mods is coil-overs, do i need them or should i just go with lowered springs? The advantage being adjustable damper and ride height, the negative, big dollars. One more mod that id do first up is a new air filer, the charade had a oiled panel style filter and it seemed good, made some induction noise and helped the top end a fair bit, Whats the best sort for these cars, ill probably make a cold air induction thingy too if that changes anything. That's about all ill be doing to the car for a while, but there's some more smaller things id be doing at the same time, eg, HID kit, sportier wheel, bucket seat, strip interior,sound system, window tint and repairing rust etc. I hope this wasn't to long winded, as these are the things running through my mind and instead of open heaps of individual threads about what to do if i do it here people can come check out the theory and practice behind each modification. For reference I'm located in the southern highlands, and am willing to travel for parts or for help, I'm also keen to give someone a hand igf they get stuck around this area. If you have any pointers post em up or pm me and ill get photos when i get the car. Cheers For all the future help I'm sure ill get Josh.

I will do that today as well. IT shouldn't be the discombobulator spring the guy I bought it off had just replaced it before I bought it off him

Cheers forgot to add that Ive got new plug leads and it has Bosch plugs, ill swap em to Ngk and see how it goes.

Hi, I have a 83 XX KE70 With a 4KC in it. It has the stock carby on it and only 143000kms. It has a horrible miss while cruising at around 3000rpm, no other revs just around 3 grand. Its the only issue i have with the car. Doesn't hesitate on take off and idles fine. I put a carby kit through it and it hasn't changed anything, could it be my coil or timing? Cheers

Hi, Bit of a thread jacking here but could be helpful. I also have a 4k motor and it ticks like crazy, It just sounds like it needs the valves reset. It may do, i haven't checked. It also splutters and farts until it is warm,My choke is connected but its come unstuck at the handle end, so it comes out further before it engages. Could this be the issue. I have a mate whose dads a mechanic, i took him for a spin it it the other day and it has a miss just off idle, like if I'm "over-running down" a hill say it doesn't miss, but if i mash the accelerator it misses then picks up and goes and if i am just coasting with a slight bit of accelerator it will miss and splutter. But it does this warm or cold. He said it could be plugs,leads,rotor button, carby. I replaced the plugs last week, so not them, would it be the leads or dizzy, or should i just look at the carb. I read somewhere that an accelerator pump could be the issue. Could it be this, I'm about to go clean the carb with some cleaner, should i put a carby kit through it? Just thought id add this as it seems like i could compare whats wrong with the OP, to hopefully solve bot our issues, but if not let me know and ill start another thread. Cheers Josh

Okay, i only say it because the gearbox/engine mounts in my vw are shot and they make the car surge, much like the rolla is doing. I'm putting a new exhaust on it tomorrow so while I'm under it i will be sure to have a fiddle see whats loose. Okay i will do that. And yes they seem to be the stock struts, only got it for cheap so I'm not fussed spending a bit more money on it.