ashie Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 (edited) really need the chassis code off the liteace before i can tell what you've got.seams a little early to be a y series but i have seen them before, not many of them around. what parts do you need? info is not easy to come by, but most of the later liteace's are the same. if it's a Y series engine as you suggest it is, engines are all interchangeable, 2Y 1.8L, 3Y 2.0L, and 4Y 2.2L. Most Y series were also floor shift (5 speed )while the K series were column shift. if you need anymore info just PM me. thanks! ill get more information then get back to you. I'm pretty sure it has the shifter on the floor, knowing my friend, if it had been on the steering column he'd have been fairly excited about it and would have told me. i don't know what parts we need yet, we're just trying to gauge the difficulty of taking it on. we might need a new master cylinder for the brakes, which is fairly un-engine-related, but if you could tell me what I'm looking for for that too itd be great. just had an idea, wheres the best place to look for a workshop manual for one of these? thanks again. edit: argh, this is phreak97, ashie's my girlfriend and she ticked always logged in on my pc. she's posted some info on her car now i think, photos are to come. Edited February 2, 2008 by ashie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 brake master cylinder is under the dash near the steering column, not an easy job, but also not a hard job, just involves pulling the speedo out and dropping the steering column down.( if i remember rightly ) :jamie: workshop manuals are few and far between for that model liteace, i do have most of the spec's and some later manuals that may help. a lot of the later Y series liteace and townace's are very similar. see how you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 hey, if someone could help itd be cool, i want to change the spark plugs tomorrow, but i don't know what plugs or what gap to use. i can just take the old plugs as comparison, but i like to use the manufacturers recommendation at least for reference, especially not knowing the vans history. i would like to know what gap to use though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JiP Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 They should have a referance at any auto parts shop telling you what plugs to use for what engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 ah, ok, ill see. I'm used to buying parts for my niki and my fiat topolino.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 alright, we got the van around to my place. we drove it here, but the power was a bit lacking and it sounded somewhat unhappy. i checked all spark plugs etc, no change, finally i did a compression test, and the second cylinder has no compression at all... i've got the rocker cover off, and i was expecting to find gaps to measure and adjustment bolts... but theres no gaps, and i can't see where id adjust it.. help! i pretty much need someone to help me work out if the compression problem is from valve adjustment problems, or a ruined valve, or something even more sinister. i thought i knew what i was doing under a rocker cover, but this engine is not like the others ive worked on (fsm niki, vw kombi) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 uh-oh, nobody to help? lets hope my friend wins the engine service manual hes bidding on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 First of all, where are you? pull the spark on the cylinder that hasn't got any compression and put some oil down there,(a couple of cap fulls) wine it over a couple of times then do your compression test again, if the compression comes up, it's a ring problem, if it doesn't it's a valve problem. with Y series engine check to make sure that all the push rods are in place, they do have a habit of popping them out if you rev them too hard. with rocker cover off wine the engine over by hand and make sure all the valves are opening and closing. also make sure you do the compression test with your foot hard on the gas!!! if you can anymore questions call me (chris) on 0402510007. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 alright, ill try putting oil in there, but i have my doubts.. theres seriously no compression at all, and all the other cylinders came up about 150psi, plus the van's only done 130,000 k's, i wouldnt have thought the rings would be very worn or damaged. what does holding the accelerator change? the valves do move up and down, but i don't know how to tell if theyre sealing without taking the head off (i guess ill rty the oil in the cylinder:P).. which might have to be done anyway. the rods are all in place and looked straight, but i didnt have much light at the time. is there seriously no measurement or adjustment for the valves? id like to just adjust them all up to rule it out, as i did when my niki was being unhappy. i noticed a theres a tunnel going down into the arm that pushes the valves in, (I'm not good with names of things, as i've taught myself pretty much all i know) and even though it doesnt really head much in the right direction, i thought maybe there might be a grub screw in there or something? its a long shot.. thanks for all the help so far people :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 what does holding the accelerator change? It allows for a true compression reading. if you have NO compression at all, i would be thinking it"s the inlet valve is not being opened thus not letting any air into the cylinder. i have seen this on Y series engines before. Hard to diagnose a problem over the internet. the tappets on these engines also aren't adjustable as they have hydraulic lifters, you may have a seized lifter? If the engine has only 130,000km's on it, i wouldn't think it's a valve, more like a valve train problem. or could just be a dirty great hole in the piston. If you were in Brisbane I'd be happy to take a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) what does holding the accelerator change? It allows for a true compression reading. if you have NO compression at all, i would be thinking it"s the inlet valve is not being opened thus not letting any air into the cylinder. i have seen this on Y series engines before. Hard to diagnose a problem over the internet. the tappets on these engines also aren't adjustable as they have hydraulic lifters, you may have a seized lifter? If the engine has only 130,000km's on it, i wouldn't think it's a valve, more like a valve train problem. or could just be a dirty great hole in the piston. If you were in Brisbane I'd be happy to take a look. my friend called his dad about it and found out about the hydraulic lifters.. i still don't fully understand how they work, but atm all that matters is that the adjustment doesnt matter i guess. alright, we really got stuck into the engine today, got the head off, and one of the valves is a bit ripped apart, it has a notch worn out of one side, and so is not making a seal. any recommendations on what to do to clean everything up ready for a new head gasket? theres heaps of bits of gasket and stuff stuck everywhere. also tips on putting the gasket in and head back on would be great, i've never taken an engine this far apart and had to put it back together again :) btw, thanks for offering to take a look, but I'm in adelaide, so it could be difficult. i pretty much have it figured out now, i just need to work out how it all goes back together:P my friend is buying a second hand head with all the valves etc already in it, is it a bad idea to take a used head from one engine and just bolt it straight onto another engine? would it be better to swap the valves? thanks again! Edited February 9, 2008 by phreak97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 just wondering, would it be better if i started a new thread in the mechanical section? this is no longer really fitting in this catagory, if it ever did. i just want to do the best for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 i think pretty much all i need to know now, is what torque settings do i use for the head bolts? we got a whole used head with all valves etc already in it, it was nicer than the old one anyway.. but it could be another week before we can get the manual and we have a new gasket set coming tomorrow, so if someone could tell me the settings for the head bolts it's be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak97 Posted February 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 all done! we got the book at the same time as the gasket set he bought.. so we got it all in. we've just got the little problems to do now, crap spark plugs, and some wierd problem where it takes ages to rev down when you release the accelerator, probably a vaccuum problem, it didnt do that before, we'll just have to go hunting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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