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MattyZ

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So haven't done anything on the corolla since i sliced ma thumb found out today at the docs that the doc who stitched me up some how missed the cut tendon that runs over the knuckle so now i gotta get that fixed so ill be out for another week more stitches yaaaaay :bash: :bash:

 

i need to get a few little things to finish the conversion like gearbox oil any suggetions?

and with running a new clutch do i need to run it in at all like no high rev changes for a certain amount of Kms etc?

 

any advice would be wikidredonkulos

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No problems on the wreck man, was my pleasure. I got a sedan shell on tuesday, so thats gonna be my project car instead of the wagon. spewin to hear about ya thumb man, if ya need any help with doin the conversion, ill come over and do it for ya if ya want man. also, sell me your jellybeans, ill give u good money for them.

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cheers for covering me at work, throw up some pics of ya sedan keen to see the bad boy. ive sprayed WD40 on all the diff bolts couple times a weak so should be easy to get out, when I'm home ill start to undo them.

 

hows the Panelvan goin?

and nope never sellin that pair of jellybeans they're killer love them!

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cheers for covering me at work, throw up some pics of ya sedan keen to see the bad boy. ive sprayed WD40 on all the diff bolts couple times a weak so should be easy to get out, when I'm home ill start to undo them.

 

hows the Panelvan goin?

and nope never sellin that pair of jellybeans they're killer love them!

 

 

no probs man, i need the cash to get the sedan running and 4aged anyways... ill come round and grab the diff soon, just gotta find time..

panelvan is good, lowering it 2 inches soon and getting some 14x8's for it hopefully. the bridgestone in lobethal also sells 13x8 spitfires straight out the mould for $200 a wheel, so it might be worth having a chat to them if ya want another pair. i would, but ive chosen 14's for the panelvan now. i will also be stocked up on 14x7's pretty soon, so if ur keen to buy some, give us a yell! the sedan was the first ke that i had, so glad to have it back!

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok so been thinking and I'm going to keep it sleeeeeppppeeeer, look for a 5k and chuck that in touch up the rest of my body fix the rust, respray sections yellow or take the clear off chuck another coat of yellow and clear as the body is straight as!, then whack a charger on the 5k give it bit more grunt but nothing to outshine they ta22 lol

 

 

and here's what surgery 11 this time exterior and 8 internal stitches look like nom nom might buy myself some kevlar gloves for christmas

 

Photo058.jpg

Edited by MattyZ
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Hey Matty,

Just a copyfrom my thread.... :)

You'll need the following:

 

1, Cutting compound I used "Septone" brand compound- like a gritty paste which is watered down slgihtly so its smoother. (Dependant on how bad the paint is.)

Just polish all the edges/high spots first by hand so you don't thin or burn the paint.

 

2, With a buffing machine - the one which looks like an oversize angle grinder and a good lambs wool buff pad polish all the vast flat areas and be generous when putting on the polish or else the paint will be burnt or will have dull finish. I mention to use the buff on large flat because you can also tear the buff padd or it can get caught.

 

3, Once all the car is polished with the cutting compound, then you can if you want polish the car using a normal cream/wax polish. I used a generous amont of polyglaze diamond finish all over the car before giving it a final polish by hand to remove all the powder finish and then its done.

 

What i'd do first though, cut/polish the car by hand and machine first to a get new layer of paint to surface. Get an exact colour match to the new paint and do the necessary touch ups. It should save the mucking around of using wax remover if you use the wax polish before hand. Lastly with some softer cream/wax polish just go to town with applicating on letting it dry and using plenty of old clean soft cloths to buff it off.

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Hey Matty,

Just a copyfrom my thread.... :)

You'll need the following:

 

1, Cutting compound I used "Septone" brand compound- like a gritty paste which is watered down slgihtly so its smoother. (Dependant on how bad the paint is.)

Just polish all the edges/high spots first by hand so you don't thin or burn the paint.

 

2, With a buffing machine - the one which looks like an oversize angle grinder and a good lambs wool buff pad polish all the vast flat areas and be generous when putting on the polish or else the paint will be burnt or will have dull finish. I mention to use the buff on large flat because you can also tear the buff padd or it can get caught.

 

3, Once all the car is polished with the cutting compound, then you can if you want polish the car using a normal cream/wax polish. I used a generous amont of polyglaze diamond finish all over the car before giving it a final polish by hand to remove all the powder finish and then its done.

 

What i'd do first though, cut/polish the car by hand and machine first to a get new layer of paint to surface. Get an exact colour match to the new paint and do the necessary touch ups. It should save the mucking around of using wax remover if you use the wax polish before hand. Lastly with some softer cream/wax polish just go to town with applicating on letting it dry and using plenty of old clean soft cloths to buff it off.

 

 

cheers for that huge help since the paint is generally good apart from a few patches which ill take a photo of, i don't see the point in full strip back paint. the only thing i may do is take the black bumb strips off.

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