jake1010 Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 hi all.. After a 3000k drive through the outback ive got a few problems.... 1. The aluminium cover things that the spark plugs sit in leak oil at high revs.... Can i just replace the seals or is this a bigger problem? 2. The oil pressure swith leaks.... Is this a standard part? Ie can i get any old one from supersheep or repco? 3. Runs like a dog when not accleterating... Sort of splutters.. From what ive read it sounds like a vaccum leak... Starts easy.. Thoughts?? 4. Idles high when warm??? 5. Is there any old topics/wikis that can tell me how to tune the carby... Ive never worked a dual throat thing before and don't really know whats going on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 You can replace the rubber seals and then sit back and watch it leak again... Poor design from the factory I reckon. Maybe try O-rings the right size. Grab a stock oil pressure switch from Repco or anywhere. They're pretty common. 3 sounds like leaning out as you say, check for leaks around gaskets and rubber hoses, and make sure the nuts/bolts on carby & manifold are tight. Something might have shaken loose & be leaking. Also check the brake booster line, although you'd probably feel that, adn make sure the pcv is sealing at idle. (pull it out of the tappet cover and put your finger over it. if it is sucking at idle its rooted) Solving the low power might sort out the idle as well, but if not have a hit at the idle speed screw and the mixture screw. You might has dirt inside a jet so if you have the carb open check the idle jet. Its unlikely as the only problem as a part-blocked idle wouldn't give you a high idle speed/start first time, so it may just need adjusting after you find the leak problem. Anything else shake loose? I was picked up in an old Holden hitching out of Darwin years ago, he'd driven from Broome (in 1978 or so) The wagaon had no brakes unless you pumped like mad, so when we stopped for gas I investigated and found the brake adjusters had all shaken themselves back in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Thanks i spoke to a mechanic out near wilcania and he said to fill the things with silocone.to replace the seals.. Not a fan but might be a last resort.. i don't have a brake booster because its actually a 4k in a morris minor.. So that rules that out... Excuse the ignorance but what is a pcv?? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 is it easy to static time a 4k??? Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 or should i say is it easy to get accurate on a 4k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 PCV is positive crancase ventilation- Google it. You can static time it by setting the crank pulley to the 8deg make on the cam cover, taking the dizzy cap off, turning on the key and turning the dizzy until the points spark. Might aa well check the gap before you do it while you're in there.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiriver Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 yeah bro, fix the idling issue soon as mine over heated, blew the head gasket, warped the head and then had compressions in the radiator and water in the oil, its all fixed now but it was a pain in the ass. Leaks lead to running like shit, try the vacuum hoses, or the manifold bolts as that was where mine was leaning, (one was missing on cyl:1) this idling high thing, look at the carby from the front with the air cleaner removed, you should see a valve type thing with a hose connecting at the end and the other end pushing on a lever, this leaver is a connection to the accelerator, if there is no vacuum on that when the engine is running then thats the problem (was in my case). If a stock carby, idle: 750man 900 auto and the adjustment is a large screw pointing 45 degrees up on the transmission side of the carb mixture: after everything else has been fixed and the points, dwell, timing have been adjusted correctly, screw the screw in or out (in lean, out rich) to get it to run nice, the screw is located the bottom of the carb on the RHS and is fairly small. good luck mate, hope we can help, feel free to post any more questions if you like :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 well at the risk of coming across as retard... How do i set the dwell time.... I did some reading and it sounds like you need a dwell meter. Is there away around this... Cause I'm broke as... I set the timing and the points today and now the problem seems to have changed a little bit... Now it wont accelerate very well.. From idle to about 1/8 throttle its alright but any more and it just gluggs abit and pretty much dies... Hmmmm.... @Scott. Iam not sure what ur talking about with the high idle issue... My carb only has on pipe coming out of it and its for the vaccum advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Yep- to set points by dwell you need a dwell meter. More accurate than feeler gauges, especially with worn points, but not essential. Did you check the points gap when you did the timing? Not crucial usually, but just in case... Sounds like it could be lean... dirty jet or leak somewhere. Unless the timing is not advancing, which is difficult to envisage. Set the timing on 16deg and see if it behaves any differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 yep i set points to .45mm that right?? I set the timming to about +15 and it didnt seem to do much.. I also played around with the mixture screw and it didnt make much of a difference either all the way in or out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 .45mm is right- So, the problem is not the lack of advance in the timing- set it back to 8deg. Idle screw doesn't do anything when it should- Suggests its a fuel problem somewhere in there. Air leak or something not right inside the carb like fuel level or obstructed jet. Did you chase the PCV? Is it still fitted, and if it is does it seal at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 did some reading about the pcv and didnt learn to much. I popped the hose off it and its got suction but how do i test the acctual valve... From what ive read a shitty pcv will only realy give you a crap idle.. Is this correct? How can i check the jets? When i look in the first stage throat i can see fuel getting sprayed around but can't in the second one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 PCV should close under vacuum, so as you say, at idle and low throttle. Don't hesitate to block it and see if it makes a difference. The fuel you see being sprayed around is from the pump jet if you are opening the throttle when you look, or fuel being sucked in as it should if the motor is running at revs. If the pump jet is working it will cover any lean spots when you boot it while driving, so you boot it and it goes but the moment your foot stops moving the car has to run on the main jet. So it might accelerate well for a second then die badly when it gets to speed. Jets are inside, which means taking the top off as I remember, but I haven't worked on an Aisin for years and seem too many other carbs. Someone on here will tell you exactly how to get them out and check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake1010 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 did some reading about the pcv and didnt learn to much. I popped the hose off it and its got suction but how do i test the acctual valve... From what ive read a shitty pcv will only realy give you a crap idle.. Is this correct? How can i check the jets? When i look in the first stage throat i can see fuel getting sprayed around but can't in the second one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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