scottiriver

ok, if you fix all the engine earth points to the body correctly, that will only help the spark system and the starter motor opperate, the negetive battery line is supposed to be connected directly to the body! just found a wiring diagram for a 1974 corolla, traced all wires coming from the alternator and regulator... you should have a wire coming from the regulator to: -battery (+) -ground, earth (-) -n and f (communication between alt and regulator)(two wires) -(most probably your problem) dash warning light -to the ignition switch (so when the keys are not inserted, the engine cannot be started) so their is a separate wire that goes to the warning light, check where those wires are going to because you either have a short or the wire is connected to the wrong place :) hope this helps and good luck :) keep us posted!

have u considered a tachodash for a ke70, they just plug in and work :)

heyy all, i am looking at purchasing a Weber DCOE setup for my ke70 and i was wondering if extractors need to be installed? are they required or just reccomended? where is the best place in adelaide to purchase some? cheers Scott

yeah saw that but hes in vic :(

heyy all I'm looking at air conditioning for my ke70, and i know that there are two ways of doing it, 1. install after market, does anyone know of costs? 2. install a used system, does anyone know whats required and costs of these parts? cheers scotty

hey all, i walked into sprint carburettor and fuel injection service today and the guy told me that the weber 32/36 uses the same jets as the 2L cortina and escort, is this true? will it run well on a 4k? cheers Scott

heyy mate, mine did that when the battery was at about 11 volts charge, the previous owner had the starter and ignition wiring replaced and made no difference, so when I got the car, I put a relay in and the the relay basically switched the full battery load to both the starter and the solenoid, the car never has starter motor problems again :) very easy to wire up, just need a high amperage relay, high amperage cable and a high amperage fuse(normal amperage of battery needed for cabling and relay), 1. disconect the wire from the ignition side of the solenoid and plug into either pin 86 or 85 2. attach high amperage cable to + side of battery and attach fuse, 3. attach other end of fuse to pin 30 4. attach pin 87 to solenoid on the starter motor 5. mount relay and tape up all connections Note. DO NOT ignore the fuse, it could save your battery and all electrics in the car if something goes wrong :)

hmm yeah but the noise is from the top of the engine, it really sounds like a tappet but i checked them and made no difference

heyy all, my little 4k has developed a ticking noise and it starting to get on my nerves it occurs only when accelerating and i have tried adjusting the tappets and that made no difference any ideas? cheers scotty

id be looking at the tail shaft

I sure its not the clutch?

Heyy all, I have a quick question, when I let the clutch out in my ke70, it makes a groan. it is a high pitch noise. I've only heard it in first when taking off at 1500 revs. it is an exceedy heavy duty clutch on a 5speed k50 and stock 4k engine. is this noise normal or has somthing been broken? cheers Scott

btw, the origional gearbox is early model and the new gearbox is late model cheers scott

hello all, just finished upgrading my gearbox from a 4speed to a 5speed, the thrust bearing seems to be not in as good cond as i thought, is it possible to swap the clutch forks as i put a new bearing on that one recently? cheers scott

hello all, just finished upgrading my gearbox from a 4speed to a 5speed, the thrust bearing seems to be not in as good cond as i thought, is it possible to swap the clutch forks as i put a new bearing on that one recently? cheers scott

and are there any other diffs that bolt on to ke70's?

ok cheers

hello again, ome quick question what are the differences between the sedan and wagon diffs in the KE70? cheers scott

have you got the drive plate around the right way?

yeah thats a very good point, ive done a defensive driving course, i know that if you can swerve than thats better then locking the brakes. my point was only that I had to lock the brakes the other day and hit someone cos it didnt stop, had no where to swerve and if abs was present then i wouldve had a better chance of stopping. might do more research into the topic as my car wasnt damaged (luckily as its my daily) and i want it to be that bit safer cheers tho guys :)

heyy bro got a mulitmetre, set to 20volts and test the light wires and fuel (ignition on) that will allow u to determine if the problem lies within the dash cheers and good luck scott

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone has put ABS brakes on a KE70? I've heard that the brakes could be exchanged and the ABS will work I would like to do this as my rolla does not stop very quick after the brakes are locked :) Cheers, Scott

Quick answer to why the previous owner would've had the back lights off is so that he could do somthing illegal and this makes it harder for the cops to see him Do you have a multimetre handy?? If so then set to ohms and check + to the body with the globe removed If anything shows up then its a short and will need to be fixed before it damages the alt or batt

cos i checked timing as well when i had it off

yeah bro, fix the idling issue soon as mine over heated, blew the head gasket, warped the head and then had compressions in the radiator and water in the oil, its all fixed now but it was a pain in the ass. Leaks lead to running like shit, try the vacuum hoses, or the manifold bolts as that was where mine was leaning, (one was missing on cyl:1) this idling high thing, look at the carby from the front with the air cleaner removed, you should see a valve type thing with a hose connecting at the end and the other end pushing on a lever, this leaver is a connection to the accelerator, if there is no vacuum on that when the engine is running then thats the problem (was in my case). If a stock carby, idle: 750man 900 auto and the adjustment is a large screw pointing 45 degrees up on the transmission side of the carb mixture: after everything else has been fixed and the points, dwell, timing have been adjusted correctly, screw the screw in or out (in lean, out rich) to get it to run nice, the screw is located the bottom of the carb on the RHS and is fairly small. good luck mate, hope we can help, feel free to post any more questions if you like :)