August 1, 201115 yr comment_543716 Hey dudes, bit of a read but please don't vague out half way through and close the tab hehehe :P Just purchased a project which will eventually become my other half's car. AE92 auto w/4AFC, 268 thou on the clock & with what I suspect is a blown head gasket :( Oil floating in the coolant, but no coolant in the sump? I was always under the impression that when a head gasket allowed two galleries to mingle that everything got everywhere? Can anyone confirm this? Weird thing is, the car still runs fine, just was low on coolant when I picked it up. The header tank was basically empty besides oily brown sludge, opened the radiator cap and found more of the same. Filled both up and it drove ok. Didn't overheat, if anything it lost and gained temp most likely due to lack of thermostat. Sound about right? Now I'm no stranger to spanners but I've never done a head gasket before. This is my 1st Toyota so thought it best I join the hallowed members of Toyotadom on this fine site and hopefully pick some brains, mebbe get some help from the local gurus?! I'll also be grabbing a manual online but I just wanted some tips from those who've done it. I've found a VRS kit on UK eBay here. Is this all I'll need when doing a head gasket? Timing belt was done at 230 thou apparently so that should still be ok. What else should I do with the head off? Water pump? Any other seals? Will I just need the head rebuilt/skimmed etc but the block should be fine to accept a new gasket? If I was supposed to chuck up a member's ride or intro post first, my apologies and I'll take care of it asap. I searched around and didn't spot obligatory requirement for either. Also searched for info about 4AFC head gaskets and didn't find anything definitive like a guide. So... Proof I'm no stranger to mechanical frustration and because I know you all love pics: Edited August 1, 201115 yr by VOLK Report
August 1, 201115 yr comment_543760 Get the manual and follow it to the 'T'. The 4a-fc has slave cam design where the inlet camshaft is geared off the exuast camshaft. The timing belt only drives the exaust cam and the waterpump. The distributor runs directly out of the exaust cam aswell. It's a bastard of an engine. If you can manage to get the inlet manifold and carby off your doing great. The narrow valve angle A series engine is actually a far more complicated engine then other wide angle twin cam engines. Report
August 1, 201115 yr Author comment_543824 After the Legnum it looks fairly easy to get into. Fair bit of space & low complexity. I say that now but I'm sure my opinion will change once work has begun :D Thanks for the info. Best be acquiring a timing light I think. I'll get it to TDC on number 1 and start pulling things apart. That vrs kit on uk eBay the best source? Anything else I should do whilst doing the head? Ex-mechanic at work said crack open the sump and unbolt the rods, set of new rings. Don't think I wanna invest that much time or money! Report
August 11, 201115 yr Author comment_546052 Has anybody purchased a vrs kit for the 4afc from eBay? I've found a few that just state 4AF & 4AFE, do they use the same head gasket? I'd imagine the kit would just have different manifold gaskets due to 4afe being EFI? These guys say it won't fit the 4AFC http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160437180272 And these guys say they only have a listing for the Holden Nova http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170649062841 which is essentially the exact same car and I'm assuming no engine or drivetrain differences between the two? Report
August 15, 201115 yr comment_546852 How much are you looking at spending. Considering most wreckers have 4a-fc's and more to spare. It might be worth taking parts of a donor car Report
August 16, 201115 yr Author comment_546869 $500 max. This should cover all parts and head work. Mate of mine is a mechanic so the labour's free. Reckon I could do better with parts from a wrecker? Report
August 16, 201115 yr comment_546874 all depends on the condition of the head when you take it off. if you pull it off and find its all in good condition, an acid dip, a quick skim 500 should cover it. if you need a few new valves, more than a skim, if there is any corrosion, the price may blow out. Report
August 16, 201115 yr Author comment_546914 VRS kit & head bolts should come in under $250. Quoted another $250 for head work (skim, replace valve stem seals etc.) from south side cylinder heads. Hoping no surprises come up :hmm: Report
August 18, 201115 yr comment_547380 well i have a complete ae92 for $1200 if youd like the thing runs and only just ran out of rego, i know its a little more than budgeted but its a complete car with no parts missing. Report
August 18, 201115 yr Author comment_547397 I'll pass thanks man. Will be able to fix everything for a little over $400. Report
August 22, 201115 yr comment_548366 sweet. i love it when cars get fixed for less then you hoped haha, got my clutch done including parts for $500 Report
August 22, 201115 yr Author comment_548393 Bargain! Ah well, at least I've got one car that's cheap to fix. Legnum's going in for 100thou service @ ~$1700 :( Clutch is an epic job too that I'm not expecting change outta $1500 0_0 Performance comes with a price. I've been driving the corolla more than the legnum lately too, so much easier on fuel! Report
August 25, 201115 yr comment_549074 Yeah that's one reason I love the rollas is fuel economy. Still though can't wait to get a 4AGZE Report
July 9, 201610 yr comment_705398 Cheap as just do it yourself. Make sure you get the full gasket kit because if the head gasket is gone the others will be poked or they will be once you pull it to bits. Just make sure you get it clean as and you may as well clean out all that carbon buildup while you have her town down. Report
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