Thirteen13 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Posted September 18, 2011 Hey guys, Went to start my 4age the other day and noticed voltage gauge was reading excessively high as soon as i started the car up and it felt like it had a problem running, wasnt smooth was a bit jittery. Battery light stayed on also. Decided that's not normal. So turned it off and got lift to work. Came back later to check it all out again and the battery is dead. Got another battery, same deal had it running for 20 seconds on a new working battery. 14.5v on idle with no load, no accessories and when reved in neutral spiked upto 19v. This was checked on multi meter. I assume this means the voltage regulator is dead. However would 15v+ be enough to kill a battery that quickly?? I find it odd that a brand new battery is killed within 20 seconds, which has me thinking there could be a leak also. But unsure.... I havent had a chance to inspect closely, is it worth while paying $40 for a new regulator or should just get an entire new alternator/replacement rebuild. Also is the regulator inside the alternator? Or on the back? I have seen the 4AGZE regulator is inside the alternator itself, so i would assume the same for the 4AGE one, but I'm not 100% sure. Is there an alternative replacement such as 4afe that will bolt up, or are they wrong bolt holes that wont line up ? Thanks Quote
ke70dave Posted September 18, 2011 Report Posted September 18, 2011 the standard 4age regulator is inside the alternator as far as i remember. i would take the alternator off, and drop it off at your local auto electrician. he will do all the testing, probably change all the bushes in it, fix the regulator issue, and you will be left with a brand new alternator! and you will never have to worry about it again. alternators are fairly gineric, they just differ in size and mounting. so the auto elecy will have stacks of available parts. he may even have an alternator available for swap over, given how popular corollas are. Quote
Thirteen13 Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I'm thinking that is the easiest option and its good advice.... the only down side is, this is on the car I'm selling and ive taken a deposit on the car already to sell! Edited September 18, 2011 by Thirteen13 Quote
ke70dave Posted September 18, 2011 Report Posted September 18, 2011 ah that is annoying. Maybe try and find an exchange item then. or chuck up a WTB and get another one to get it going. where are you located? if brisi i can recommend logan priest in wynnum, he does nice and fast service, and has had alternators on the shelf ready to go for the last 2 cars ive taken down there. Quote
Thirteen13 Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Posted September 19, 2011 cheers man, i used to live on sunny coast but I'm over in WA now so bit of an issue. Ill suss out what i can. is a 4AFE unit or any model option available or is the bolt pattern different ? I know GZE is totaly wrong as its on the bottom of the motor. Quote
Thirteen13 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Posted September 22, 2011 after having a read through the Haynes manual, it appears the 4A-FE alternator is on the front of the motor where as the 4A-GE is on the back.... That being said is anyone aware if the bolt pattern is the same, just on a different side, or is there any other model engine that will allow the alternator to bolt upto a 4A-GE. Also is the bigport and smallport alternators the same ? i would be very inclined to say they are, however with the different intake manifold setup you never know and I'm unsure Thanks :happy: Quote
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