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Ke35 Electrical Issues


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hi,

my ke35 has been having some problems recently. Firstly, the starter motor solenoid is stuffed, it won't stop cranking, but the most annoying part about that is that the engine itself isn't actually firing and starting up. So, i decided today id have a go at trying to get it going so we can at least drive it to an auto electrician to get a proper diagnosis on the starter motor, hopefully even fix it. At the moment I'm just trying to rule off things that could be causing the starting issues. Its getting fuel fine, so thats no worries, so i think I'm not getting any spark. Just got a new battery so thats fine and although the starter motor is draining on the battery it shouldn't stop it from starting all together. Now, i don't have a great understanding of mechanics but to me it seems to be the plugs, if not it'd at least be good to cross them off the list, knowing that they're fine. They're relatively new looking NGK BP5EY's and looking over the forums, they're the stock 3k/4k plugs. The only problem is apparently theres supposed to be a number next to the part number, which tells the gap, but mine doesn't have this, it just has BP5EY |||| JAPAN. I can take a photo of them if it'd help but in the end i just want to get the car going. Also, id love to hear if anyone else has similar starter motor problems and how they fixed them. Cheers!

 

Marcus

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To check the spark plugs are firing pull one out, plug the lead back onto it and sit it on the rocker cover. Turn the motor over and you should see/hear it spark.

 

After sitting a while mine won't fire unless I pump the throttle continuously while cranking or spray some start ya bastard down it's guts.

 

Starter issues aside, does it start with a push start?

 

You could probably throw in a second hand starter motor for less than a visit to the auto electrician and a few grazed knuckles.

 

 

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ok i might give that a go!

As for the push start, its underneath a pergola at the moment thats hard enough to get out of when the car actually is running, i haven't even attempted to try push it out before. Unless its out of the pergola i don't have the space to do a push start unfortunately.

cheers!

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Thanks dude! i set them at 1.1mm this afternoon based on what others had said in a separate post. They weren't too clear though and some people said 1.1, some said 0.8, some said certain types can't be reset, some gave advice on different series' engines... Overall it wasn't very helpful so its good to have a simple, clear answer like that! thanks heaps for the reply ;)

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here in the states they are all pretty much the same for 3K (.032") plug gap... conversion:1mm=.03937"

 

i would operate the throttle and verify accellerator pump gives a squirt into the carb.

 

then see if you can light a 12v light on the coil, one side should be on when the key is,dimmer but steady when cranking. the other side should be a flash when cranking.

 

i have a 3K and when its done this after a long storage, i had to wirebrush the coil connectors and posts. when shiny and bright, and reassembled tight, i sprayed the two connections with battery protect spray. (blocks both 02 and H20) i substituted a plug wire used on the coil for a spark test to gnd. and ended up opening two sets of problem wires. ordered a new set from toyo dealer here $60. these last a lifetime. some aftermarket stuff can be no good right away. looking for 5k ohms per foot. as an ohmmeter check before installing. have a look in the cap for corrosion or burn thru. on mine i had corroded primary coil connections as the cause of no start.

and since it had a flash during the primary test mentioned earlier, i just checked the poinnt gap. reassembled and it started. you may want to regap, .017" or, the thickness of an automotive razor blade from the bodyshop.

 

on yours, i would tap the starter to get it to let go, then drive it to where i found the known good parts for the start-up cranking circuit.

or, like mentioned by others, remove and bench test the starter, disassemble and clean, find the cause of why cranking continues

(like a return spring on the drive, or spring between the relay solenoid and the throw-out lever)

i always laugh at the simplicity of the design on these, and get to fix it quick needing very few parts.

 

but if the spring lost it due to rust.....

 

if i had no fuel present i would fix the starter first, then dribble some gas from a small appropriate container into the carb. see if it starts. if gas doesnt prime and come thru the idle circuit, goto the filter, then the pump. i have had to use spray carb clean to get the wax out of the valves,inside the pump. get them wet again, and get them cycling. blow back into the tank and see if it bubbles. evaluate. get the gas to flow freely from the tank by gravity into a container safe to do so.

 

after learning what they do to our fuel where i live, i went to pull-it yard and snapped up a low psi electric

fuel pump from another make with a carb. oem japanese pumps go "dibby dibby dup" instead of "Grrrrrrrrrowowowaaa" like new aftermarket ones do available here in the states

 

come back to this thread and tell what you had on yours. dannyl

Edited by dannyl
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  • 3 weeks later...

alright, so i reset the plug gap about a week ago to 0.8 like you guys said, tried to start it and, nothing!

it gave a bit of a kick first time then it was completely out so I'm assuming thats the starter motor shitting itself :/

kind of annoying but of well. So basically just wondering if anyone had a 3k starter motor laying around they'd want to send out to me haha

i told some mates and they said they'd help out this weekend with it but id like to put in another one at the same time if at all possible so if anyones got one, let me know! please!

if not ill have a bit of a play around with it but bottom line is, i just want to drive the thing! its been sitting for too long and I'm missing it! been about 2 months off the road because of its issues! hopefully this will sort them out ;)

cheers!

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