Hi I am a newbie here, I have a ke70 with the 4k, soon to be 5k.

I have searched some build threads on here, googled a bit, and searched the rollaclub faq.

I am wanting to know what oil pressure gauges people have used and what the thread size was to go into the oil filter housing? I have an oil gauge but the thread is still slightly to big.

Any help and directions appreciated.

 

from memory it is 1/8 NPT but just double check to be sure.

I've also heard rumors that the thread is 1/8th NPT, but when I tried to thread an 1/8th NPT adaptor into my engine, it would bind up after a few turns. I know Japanese manufacturers also use 1/8th BSP, so that might be it. The difference between them is only one thread per inch, so it wil thread in tightly; which is what I did. I know it is not ideal, but as long as you are not undoing it frequently enough to wear the threads and use some proper thread sealant, it will hold up (mine has held up dailying 50km a day for the last year).

 

I use an electrical Speco gauge on my 7K with a T fitting so I could keep the factory warning light. My other car (Mazda 2) has a Autometer mechanical gauge with a steel braided line, which reacts a little quicker than the electrical gauge. My other other car (MGB) has a factory mechanical Smiths gauge with a hard copper line which reacts just as quick. All my cars still have the factory oil warning light so I know when there is a large oil pressure drop. I really just use the gauges as a 'benchmark' to check for deviations from 'normal' pressure (low oil, dirty oil, worn components etc).

 

With a mechanical gauge, I recommend using a braided line for peace of mind, although there is nothing inherently wrong with the nylon or copper line kits when used properly with the correct ferrules (most cars pre-1970's with an oil pressure gauge came factory with copper lines, and some go-karts use similar nylon lines as brake lines). Just make sure to tighten to spec, test and check regularly; it's better to fix a weep than wait for a failure.

 

With an electrical gauge, it's better to mount the sender remotely and run a separate line to the block fitting. The senders are heavy and have a reputation of snapping off at the threads with the engine vibrations.

NPT is a tapered thread, so isnt it supposed to "bind up"?

Edited June 11, 201412 yr by ke70dave

NPT is a tapered thread, so isnt it supposed to "bind up"?

 

Hard to explain, but it felt different from how a correct NPT fitting seats. I've found NPT male ends (because of the taper) normally starts fairly loose and then seats up, whereas this was finger tight, gradually tightening/seating. That's the best I can explain, it just didn't feel 'right'.

Cheers for all this.

Edited June 15, 201412 yr by Matt_23_ke70