Alright guys I'm new to these forums I've done a lot of reading and even brought a multimeter, I was driving along one beautiful night and all the lights cut out and so did the motor. I have changed all wiring over from a dx wagon that was running and everything worked but there is no change in my poor baby's condition if someone can help me through this would be much appreciated have visually checked all fuses and 1 keeps popping and it doesn't start of key only push button

 

Edited December 30, 20196 yr by Pjigle

This is my car

Update have found a melted fuse box under steering column replaced that got indicators and hazards going and battery light but still won't start

Start with this-

https://www.dropbox....adfile.jpg?dl=0

and see if the black solenoid activator wire gets 12V at the starter when you turn the key to start.  Check ALL the circuits, just to see what isn't working and if it shares a fuse. Depending on the country some KE70 had relays in the starter circuit, some didn't. Another one to watch is people converting auto to manual, there will be a starter cutout wire by the gear lever that must be hooked up.

When you have checked all the circuits, find out which one melted the fusebox and stop it from happening again. You should never replace a fuse without finding out what blew it.

The fact it has a push button sounds dodgy, you're relying on someone else's wiring to be good, so check all that carefully.

Okay I have indicators brake lights dash lights gauges working but ballast resistor is getting real hot and won't fire any help much appreciated

Right-  The ballast runs the 9V coil while the motor is running. It gets by-passed when the motor is cranking so the coil overcomes the voltage drop from the starter pulling a few hundred amps.

The wiring sends the ignition power from the key to the ballast resistor and then to the coil +ve. If you have the ignition on and the points closed the resistor will get hot as the current flows through it. There is another coil +ve wire from the cranking part of the ignition barrel, that only activates when you are actually cranking the engine over.

Make sure those wires are hooked up correctly. Then make sure the points have the right gap. Then make sure you have 12V at the points with them open and the ignition on. If you short across the open points with a screwdriver it should spark and the coil should fire.

If you have all that, put a lead onto a spare spark plug and see if it gets a spark when its just sitting on the motor & you're cranking it.