High Idle 7afe conversion

[cwoodphoto]

Hey,

I have recently swapped a 7afe in my ae95 and having some issues with idle from start up. The 7afe came out of an auto ae115 so have had the two wiring looms spliced together and running the 7afe ecu. The car starts but has an idle of 2k then creeps up to 3k and sticks there for a while once the throttle has been opened. I have checked for leaks and can't find any, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the iac valve and checked timing. Any advice beyond this?

Cheers
 

[altezzaclub]

" the ICV is stuck open and squirting carb cleaner into the throttle body hole alone will not always free it. Unplug the cable to the ICV, undo the screws holding the electronic device to the body. Once removed see if you can spin the electromagnetic actuator on the body back and forth freely, if not that is the problem. To sort it remove the middle hose below, not the water hoses, then place your finger over the hose outlet whilst filling the hole in the throttle body with carb cleaner, this will ensure it is flooded with cleaner and not simply draining down where the hose was connected. Keep the fluid in there for ten mins whilst trying to rotate the actuator until it is freely moving then reassemble. This problem not only occurs due to gunge but also if laid up for a long period when oxidisation can seize the shaft, could also by why used parts often do not solve the problem as they have been laying around unused."

Give it a go...  I found it on a Cressida a few years ago.

[cwoodphoto]

Hey

Unfortunately, I've already tried that and seen no difference. The actuator moves freely.

 

cheers

[altezzaclub]

Is it the sort that springs back after the power makes it open? So the motor only turns forward then turns off, and it is normally closed without 12V to make it open?

If it is closed when its in your hand, put it back on without wiring it up and you will know that air is not going in there.

Are there only three options? Faulty ECU, faulty IAC valve, or an air leak somewhere?

Does it have the old waxstat air control as well, to do the coarse cold-idle adjustment?

Is your car also an auto? I don't know if there is a difference in the ECUs for manual and auto, but the auto needs a higher-powered idle than a manual.

My 4AGE in the KE70 never idled with a stock ECU, either too low when in frost or too high when hot.  Its only been solved with the Haltech where I have control of fuel and advance to keep it around 1000rpm..