Sam_Q
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Posts posted by Sam_Q
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It's real easy to tell if you have oil squirters by looking at the blocks, someone can correct me if there are any exceptions to this but as far as I know all 7-rib blocks had them and none of the 3-rib ones did.
The oil squirters can be retro-fitted if the block is machined and tapped to suit. Doesn't look like an overly hard job either for one who has the right equipment. But you will need to manually cut a pocket out of your existing pistons or fit the later type or else their skirts won't clear the squirters near bottom dead center.
Why do you want the biggest rods? If it's strength due to boost then you're looking in the wrong place, only revs will kill a 4A rod. So you will only be putting more load on your engine by running the heavier type. I personally like the idea of going for a light aftermarket rod to help with that and the response.
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Ok Ive come across a 20v silvertop motor at a sweet price, I read a bunch of threads saying its doable, then called an auto eleccy (does conversion harnesses) who told me the rear distributor is a BIG problem with the conversion into Ke70/ae71. Just wanted to ask if anyone has any clever solutions to overcome this?
(I see you can cut/ bash the firewall or there is a dizzy relocation option if you buy an aftermarket bracket type thing) or you can go individual coils for a wasted spark setup but I was hoping to keep the stock ecu and the auto leccy said these two arent really compatable.
Anyway just hoping someone more knowledgable than me can give us a heads up on the dizzy issue.
cheers,
Jes
Here you go:
http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/engine/4age-20v/20v-4age-distributor-kit.html
All you need is a socket set and allen keys. Real easy and quick job too.
The pic on the engine is of the older kit, these new V5 models are machiend out of a solid block. I need to take an updated photo of one of the new kits fitted to my test engine.
I also suggest having a look at the other products:
http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/engine/4age-20v.html
http://www.sq-engineering.com/replacement-parts/engine/4age-20v.html
Running coilpacks on the stock ECU has been done and some get it to work well, others have tried without any success. Either way it makes the coils prone to cook. I personally don't suggest it.
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Seriously though, thanks for all your help along the way.
well I wouldn't of done so if I didn't think it was a worthwhile project, so you are welcome
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hahahaha! I guess I better go hide somewhere now!
Good work though, happy to see you're still at this.
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if it's anything like the other engines I have seen the heater tap fully cuts the water flow off when the selector switch is on the cool setting. I very often see people bypass a heater circuit when not running one because they don't know that this is the oppersite of what they should do. This causes a radiator bypass and nothing else.
I had the exact same idea as you many years ago with the heater valve, I took out of of an EA ford or something like that that's pretty similar. I was going to use a T-piece between the one way valve and the brake booster chamber.
Those velocity stacks could use a parabolic shape added to them, hahahaha
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can you replace the bearing in the Tein tops?
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no, you can't even chop the flange off and weld a 7afe one on. This is because on those engines the outer two cylinders curve in.
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post pictures of what you have now
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progress is good.
I have more diff baffles should you want them
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the reason why they are different lengths is because of the positions on the head, you see on one side the bolt heads/nuts are much lower down and hence need a shorter length to suit. The thread depth on the block is identical. On a 20V they only use the longer type all round.
Also there is a known problem that ARP don't tell you, you have to grind a bit out of one of the studs so the dizzy can be reinserted.
By the way I respect your machining skills
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Heater core would leak into the passenger footwell, not the driver's
ah good point, and I guess even if it was to go due to it sitting around then it wouldn't be "a large pool of water".
One of the drain holes to look at it at the bottom of the door, pulling the door card off to see if the door is full of water would be a good place to start
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It's not coolant by any chance? you could have a bad heater core
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Ah you mean more resistance in terms of the extra loading from the greater inefficiency of the rear wheel drive line compared to the front, so more losses and therefore more engine load to sustain same vehicle speed and acceleration. I understand what you mean now but I can't imagine it making much of a difference in terms of cooling.
The front wheel drive pumps have an extra impellow blade, I won't pretend to know if this has much of an effect hence my careful wording.
Blocking the heater line is a good idea, otherwise you have a pretty serious compromise on your cooling system.
All this said 4age engines just don't run very hot usually. I ran my 20v for many years without a fan and a Hyundai radiator.
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It's important to convert the water pump to Rwd. It very well may be your problem.
I did a lot of research when doing my conversion from a fwd 4age to rwd. Rwd is always running a higher pressure load on the engine by enough for the pump to make a difference.
By passing the heater core is common, I did the same.
HIgher pressure load? can you explain what you mean by this? The front wheel drive pumps may well be a better pump in terms of flow.
Also what makes you think rear wheel drive engines have more resistance in rotation? The extra bearing and ribs are to handle the forces exerted from the mechanical fan and clutch.
Bypassing the heater is a bad idea because it's then a radiator bypass. It should always be blocked not bypassed.
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you wouldn't mean the loud ticking noise from the exhaust leak would you?
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wow I forgot I had this on here, I have done many mods and the engines a few times since then. Without reading back through it I don't know what I was referring to in regard to upgrading the engine. I did however buy this:
However I have ordered some OEM pistons to go with these rods instead, I may choose to use these pistons in the future. Lets see how stock pistons go being revved real hard.
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I have been told that acrylic is the way to go, it's not unbreakable like polycarb but much more scratch resistant
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so how did you go with this conversion, anyone know what the difference between ae71 and ke cross members?
the engine mounts sit up higher on the K series mounts
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Depends on how the conversion has been done, it's likely that the engine mounts from the crossmembr have been changed. Be very carefull though as they may have chopped into the transmission tunnel, firewall and other things to make it fit.
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it's not ideal no but can work, apparently according to some of the South Africans 20v engines like to have their exhuast cam alterneted by 2 degrees
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you can't tune a stock ecu apart from adjusting the timing, and that won't cause a miss. I suggest checking your capacitors
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tune or repair? which ecu?
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Just got Neg camber roll centre adjusters in the post. :lovin:
whoa, why would you run those? you know their not good for your suspension right?
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I understand why you would think that however I beleive that normal wear would eventually do this regardless of belt tension. Misuse or not this shouldn't happen. I have reports of being common and I have seen it on other types of pulleys as well, aluminium is just too soft.
4Agze Blocks
in AExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
Well there you go, I stand corrected on the squirters.
With the rods I stand by what I said though, sounds like your engine builder is one of the old V8 guys. Shot-peening the rods would be pretty pointless when they are as strong as they are. Even the flimsy looking blacktop 20V rods are surprisingly strong and people have used with boost before.
Good to see another one of my parts that are going to be used. The laser cut flanges are another one of those things that I don't make that much on but I am happy to offer them because it makes it easier for people.