mattl

Thanks for the replys guys. I was hoping they'd be common but it doesn't sound like it. The 4AGE option sounds good but I haven't got those kind of $ to spend. Going from slug to slow, I assumed that'd be the case but it's 95% a town car and I think I'd rather have nipple erections and a slightly slower car than a pretty slow car that doubles as a sauna. So suppose I did come across a unit at a wrecker, how much should I expect to pay for all the parts? Any vague idea? And would it be relatively straight forward to install? These 12v plug in deals... I'm guessing it's like one of those evaporative coolers and not really an air-con right? thanks again guys. matt

Hi just wonding if there are any threads on this. I've searched but haven't found anything. Having no air con in Townsville is killing me. I'm wondering how difficult/expensive it would be to add. Was air con an option on this or equivalent models? any info greatly appreciated. matt

Thanks dude, that gear is gold. matt

I researched RONs pretty heavily when LRP dissappeared from around here and I had to find an alternative for my KE-70. LRP is/was 96 RON, PULP is 95, ULP is 91 and BP Ultimate/Shell Optimax etc is 98. Because the 4k-c engine is Japanese built it was designed to run on both unleaded and leaded petrol since leaded wasn't used in Japan at the time but it was used in other markets (such as Australia). That's why no additive is needed to look after the valves. In theory the 4k-c engine is tuned to run on fuel around the 95 and above RON level. My local toyota dealer told me that the car will run best on higher octane unleaded fuels (PULP or ultimate/optimax) but he also said due to the age of the engine, using standard ULP shouldn't bother it too much. He said too that the fuel filter would probably require replacing more often than usual since PULP contains cleaning agents and LRP doesn't, so all the crap that had been building up for 20 years should come out. That has proved to be pretty true. I've had to change it about 3 times in 12 months. I wish I'd known all along that it would run on unleaded without additives, I wouldn't have bothered paying the extra for LRP. Anyway, I got a bit off the topic there, but someone might find that info useful. matt

OK, that sounds good. Thanks mate. matt

Thanks Nick. I've got the lock out already. Any idea how much a locksmith might charge to look at it? I don't realy wanna spend much money on it. thanks again matt

Name: Matt Car: 1983 KE70 CS Wagon Motor & Driveline: Factory 1.3 & 4 speed manual. Engine was rebuilt a few years back. Suspension & Brakes: Factory Wheels & Tyres: Standard Interior: All factory grey except for my pioneer stereo head unit, the isolator switch for the driving lights and and manual engine immobilser. Body: Factory except for the 55w driving lights mounted onto the front bumper. They make a huge improvement to the factory high-beam. Other: 225000kms and still going strong. A few small dings and bumps and a bit of rust in the roof, but otherwise in good condition. Fun car to work on.

Hi all, matt from Townsville, QLD, Australia here. I have a 1983 KE70 CS wagon and the lock on the tail gate has jammed. I've pulled it apart and found that the door release mechanism is fine, it's the lock barrel itself that's jammed. The key won't slide in, it stops about half way. I've tried squirting some lubricant into the lock but no difference. As many of you will know, the lock and door release are in a single unit, so it's pretty annoying. The only way I can open the tail gate is to climb into the car from the rear passenger doors, remove the trim panel from the inside of the tail gate and release the latch by hand. I'm 100% sure that it hasn't been tampered with. There's no sign of damage and it was parked at my in laws house/property which is out in the middle of nowhere. So I'm sure no one's tried to break it. Has anyone had this problem or can give any suggestions on how it could be fixed? Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks heaps, matt

Hi all, matt from Townsville, QLD, Australia here. I have a 1983 KE70 CS wagon and the lock on the tail gate has jammed. I've pulled it apart and found that the door release mechanism is fine, it's the lock barrel itself that's jammed. The key won't slide in, it stops about half way. I've tried squirting some lubricant into the lock but no difference. As many of you will know, the lock and door release are in a single unit, so it's pretty annoying. The only way I can open the tail gate is to climb into the car from the rear passenger doors, remove the trim panel from the inside of the tail gate and release the latch by hand. I'm 100% sure that it hasn't been tampered with. There's no sign of damage and it was parked at my in laws house/property which is out in the middle of nowhere. So I'm sure no one's tried to break it. Has anyone had this problem or can give any suggestions on how it could be fixed? Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks heaps, matt PS - I've attached a couple of pictures of the lock barrel so people know what I'm talking about.