Infy

So bit of an update, Finally pulled my finger out and fixed the brakes up with the new pads. ordered the window dividers and a bailey channel seal through rare spares so with any luck that should arrive sometime next week or so. car is off stands and now sits firmly on the ground, need to get a couple more things for roadworthy. Seat belt stalk to suit ke35 for passenger front possibly rear also Flasher Can Wire up a horn button as I can't be bothered trying to figure out why the steering wheel one won't work Possibly change the drivers headlight Get the bastard started So not a great deal left to do to finally get her on the road. My twin SU's arrived today need to take a look at them and organize to pick up some extractors then get the rest of the exhaust made to suit, but this can wait until after she is running and registered. If anyone could help out on where to obtain or has any of the things I need please PM me.

Damn, I was hoping I had more time to sort this out before then. Guess I'll come and get some inspiration instead.

Cheers, I think the colour works pretty well, not normally a fan of green, although I did have a olive green mk 2 escort. I think I will have to take a trip yo rare spares once she is on the road. Bloke from work gave me the idea to try and clutch start it, means I have to fix the breaks first then give that a try. If she starts then I'll look into a new high torque starter. I've seen a few of the ebay listings, it's just hard to be sure that you are buying the right rubber when there is two called almost the same thing. How often do the rollaclub guys go out driving?

The motor is back together, and back in the car. Not the best rebuild ever but it's better than where it was. Unfortunately, I still can't get the bastard to fire up.. Pulled #1 plug out and I have spark, there is fuel going to the carby, but it is still cranking slower than I think it should... I'm at the point where I need to ask for help, because electrics is not my thing. Anyone in Brisbane that would be willing to lend a hand it would be much appreciated. Cheers

Hey Everyone, Figured I would start a build thread, considering it has turned into more of a build than just a buy and drive. So I've already started a thread which a few of you have already thankfully helped me with, but I believe starting this thread (WITH PICS!) will be a more suitable place for everything. This is how I bought it, As some of you had seen the ads you will recognize these photos. Seller informed me all it would need was the water pump put on, tail shaft installed, gearbox oil put in, and a radiator and hoses. After it got delivered i promptly got it up on stands and started on the small list to finish her off. And that's when i noticed that the lowness wasn't from proper springs Installed everything, put the battery in to crank her up and it was just slow turning over.... fun begins. Got a sparky mate around to help with electrics because that isn't my forte, redid the negative terminal to ground, and checked the resistance of the wires to the starter and engine ground. All checked out, shorted out the starter to double check that all seemed clear, but decided to pull it off and get it checked out anyway. Wasn't the starter.... After a bit more advice I pulled the motor out, and started to tear it down to see why it was binding up and so hard to turn over. As soon as I pulled the flywheel and put the motor on the stand it loosened up a lot, could even turn it by hand, but would still bind up a tiny amount. Flywheel Couldn't really see any marks on the wheel itself, very small amount of the rear main seal was scored but nothing major. Whilst I've got the motor out and pulled down, i figured I'd get the cam done, decided to get a tighe 154 grind and the lifters refaced Also getting new big end and main bearings, thrust washers etc. Today I pulled the struts out to change the springs over. Old vs New While I had the wheels off, checked the brake pads and got another lovely surprise... Thankfully I happen to have Girlocks on the front, So VN rear disk pads work in these? This is a massive first post, but I was putting off writing it. I've also got twin SU's on the way Have some extractors to get from a mate from the 3k off my old ke30 2door sedan that is still sitting on stands... There is a couple things that I'm missing that I could use some help with if anyone knows where to look. I need a passenger side front seat belt stalk looks like this and also a rear drivers side. Also if anyone knows where to get the coupe weatherstrip and the strip between the windows? And that is pretty much up to date for now, I was hoping to have the motor rebuilt this weekend, but the bearings are all down in NSW and need to be posted up here, so hopefully I can have her on the road in the next two weeks. sorry for the wall of text, future updates should be smaller.

It was only turning over by putting a spanner on the crank pulley and giving it a turn, and only as far as you would turn the pulley.. I'm not exactly a small guy, and it took a fair amount to get it to turn.. Anyway, a bit of good(ish) news, got the motor on the stand and pulled the sump off (not before having a lifter fall out, then turning the motor over to take them all out) Once the sump was off, I tried to turn it over again just by grabbing the fan, and lo and behold it spun as easily as it should, slight resistance but easy to turn. The only thing I could think of is there were a couple of lifters that were a little harder to remove, not stupid, could still take them out by hand without tools, but they didn't just fall out either. So whilst it's apart ill double check everything, probably get a new cam, cam chain and tensioner and shim the oil pump spring.

Really have no idea, the corrosion isnt that bad, but it did have a couple mm of carbon built up inside the combustion chambers and on the pistons, but the bores look ok. Whilst ive got the motor out, any recommendations? Whats a decent cam/ grind worth roughly?

So finally got the motor out, bent a couple bellhousing bolts along the way. Clutch is brand new (previous owner had said as much) just need to remove the flywheel to mount the engine on the stand. I'd rather not use another motor that I can't be sure of, so ill try stripping this down further and see if i can't figure out whats causing it to be so tight, still can't turn it over by hand even with the clutch off. Aside from that I've already invested in new gaskets etc. Any tips would be appreciated.

So I've ended up taking the head off. Everything seems to be fine so far, small amounts of corrosion in the water jackets but nothing you wouldn't expect after 40 years. and nothing so bad as to suspect anything wrong. Even with the head off the motor is still hard to turn over by hand, I've tried to oil the bore a little, there isn't any scoring, just the usual carbon build up you would expect. So that leaves me with either the bottom end being shot, or what? the gearbox might still be an issue? although I don't hear any noise while turning it over by hand. Mind you I'm only getting about 1/8th of a turn each go. It's not seized, it still turns, just requires more effort than I would think necessary... I really don't want to have to pull the bottom end apart..

I've recharged the battery already to double check that, the starter I've both shorted it whilst on the car, and taken it off and bench tested it, also checked the leads from the battery etc. so I pulled the spark plugs again, and tried to turn it by hand using both the fan and the crank pulley, and was still tight to turn. I took the rocker cover off, and turned it to make sure the valve train wasn't binding, and it all seems to be moving well enough.. so before I pull the head off, could the gearbox/pressure plate etc. be a possible issue? Apparently the clutch was replaced prior to me purchasing it, so if I just backed off the bellhousing and tried to turn it again? Thanks for the help.

Awesome, Thanks for the help guys. The 4k that's been put in appears to be missing that control valve, among other things. Unfortunately this little problem has to go onto the back burner, as I've been trying to get the engine to crank over (which i figure i shouldn't need that return for). Engine only cranks over slowly, no where near normal crank speed to start, Brand new battery, had the starter motor checked, put in and checked the ground to the chassis and engine block, also checked the positive to the starter motor. Pulled the spark plugs out, and the motor would crank faster, but still what i think isn't fast enough, put the plugs back in, back to slow crank. Any ideas? I originally bought the corolla as i was hoping it wouldn't need much to get it on the road, so far it's full of gremlins Thanks.

Ah, awesome, it appears I'm currently missing the charcoal canister then. Thanks!

Hey guys, So I've bought my second corolla, a 1974 ke35, and the previous owner has put a 4k in because his wife blew up the 3k. Now when I bought it, it hasnt been completed, I've got what appears to be a fuel return line? Which I thought these cars didn't have. I'm probably mistaken, but if anyone could be so kind as to tell me where this is meant to connect to that would be great.

So haven't posted in awhile (although I'm beginning to doubt it's being read anyway) Have received everything I've been waiting on, and picked up the block, crank, pistons, and head from the shop yesterday, so all I really need now is to decide on cams and associated gear and to start to reassemble I've gotten the volvo lca (wishbone) to fit with a slight modification, so if i can find or buy a bearing to use on the strut with my ke30 top hats I hopefully should be able to use the entire front assembly as well.

Been really busy with work recently so not much has happened in the way of actual work. But i went and got the engine mount kit from Jordanrolla (thanks mate) on the way home from his place, about 500m down the street saw an e-type convertible and a db6 parked at a cafe... also picked up a t50 and some other things (thanks ali) dropped off the block head crank and pistons, they should be done friday week, received the rebuild kit last friday so that will be all good to go when its back. this weekend should be able to get a bit of time to look at the front struts and pulling the diff etc from the volvo.