salman
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Posts posted by salman
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My 7K-E didnt came with startermotor.. I installed 2k startermotor.
The engine cranks perfect without sparks plugs installed but when i install sparks plugs the engine stops cranking ,
My question.
Does 7k and 2k uses the same startermotor or its different?
Some one told me that 7k Startermotor is twice the power of 2k's one..
2: i have a 5k CDI distributor, WILL IT ok on 7K-E.
Many thanks..
Salman
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I have the 3K stater motor, the engine didnt came with one, its not cranking the engine... taking load... as when the battery is low. .. , :offtopic:
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The main issue is Steering rod connecting to the steering rack, , My StarLet is RHD.
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He modified the Sump. let me see....
i can't find the pictures..
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Hi all, i was running 3k in my starlet, i saw 7k at my friends place and bought it, in exchange i gave 3k to my friend, ...
I thought is bolt on .. :(
but found out the swap issue,...
I Do have a 2k ...
Now I want to use the 7K with its original Oil pump ... ??
please help me out here.
Many thanks...
Salman
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installed the Open differential, the grip is 200 % batter... no more tailing... (12 psi)
i do have to check on 1.2 bar..
but its controllable..
:yes:
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I can't see how pressing them will soften them salman.
Spring steel is pretty much all the same as far as I know, and spring rates depend on the thickness of the wire, the diameter or the spring & the number of coils in it. The active coils are the ones that are free to move, not the ones on the seat or ones that touch another coil. That is why cutting cols of makes a spring stiffer as well as lowering the car. So you need to change the spring to get a softer one.
There are a lot of online spring rate calculators like this-
please recommend me a spring rate that i should use in my car.. plus a picture of spring that how it should look like..
I have a guy here who makes springs for local manufactures. my current ones are made by him..(he don't know any thing about performance springs and there requirements/rate) he made it according to my requirements. and that i told him to do.
i have to take out one of my spring to take picture and up load it...
I know the physical spec..
11mm= .433 inch wire thickness
4.8''= outer
4 active coils.
spring rate in LB/in= 151.687
spring rate in kg/mm = 2.708
what do u say ??? are they soft enough??
Spring Rate kg/mm:Spring Rate kg/mm:Spring Rate kg/mm:
Spring Rate kg/mm:
Spring Rate kg/mm:
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softer springs will help, that car really doesnt squat much, there are calculators online to calculate your spring rate if you can't get it from your manufacturer.
I'm trying to understand how you know you softened rear springs by 10% without knowing the spring rate?
Sorry.. for being lame...
By pressing the spring....
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yup, we get a tire for another 100 or more because of shipment and duty... :/
i want tires for 500whp.
in this video i lunched the car at 1500 rev. and slowly slowly pressed the throttle. but in second gear it jumped.. !!!
currently i am reaching 182-185km/h on 1/4 mile.. at 1.2 bar.. i will be running 1.5 or more..
I was thinking may be if there is a cheaper way of getting the traction.. tries are expensive here...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SSVDnADl-c&list=UUCTFj97W1obChf_sQphRvJg&index=1&feature=plcp
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Nankang........they aren't tyres. They are ice skates.
I had nankang ns2 on my s15, absolutely useless tires.
Grab some toyo r888 to go with that engine/car combo!
YES, they are NS2, in my current condition i was capable of buying those, but I failed...
the next tires that i have order are Nitto NT555, which from my friends exprience are batter then aDvan neova ad08...
I don't know my spring rate??
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have change the rare spring to 10% soft ones... driveability is much batter..
its not bouncing, it jumps to left(60deg) when i shifts to 2nd and press the throttle.. Yes If i can train my foot it will get batter,,, but I want to run 1.5 bar boost. so that i can race,
I tried controlling the throttle but it works but It cost me race,
my friends 5RFHE turbo, 1.1 bar, takes the lead while i am controlling the throttle .... at .8 bar of boost.. and at third gear i can't catch him. under a 1/4 mile...
tires are NanKang, just 2 month old.
how worse will it get if i uninstall the LSD??
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Hi all,
my ride is giving me hard time... i don't blame it for traction but the issue is going extreme jumps side ways when ever the throttle is aggressively pressed.
my current setup is as following..
1JZ-GTE
81 SR-5
R-154,
3.737 diff. LSD.
255/45/R17
boost 1.2 bar..hx35(8 blade)
I am in a assumption that if change the diff. from LSD to non LSD, the issue of jumping will be minimized , moreover the diff ratio is also very high, i should also change it to 4.1:! instead of 3.737:1,
reduced the boost from 1.2 to .8 bar...
Your valued experience is welcomed....
i will also upload a video as well,,,,
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i have 265/40/r17, 9 inch at rare wheels and 225/50/r17, 8 inch at the front wheels ... i do have a spacer of 1.25 inch at just front wheels..
7 inches wouldn't be a problem to fit in ... ill post pics as well...
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The 3SGE BEAMS doesn't have "multicam" profiles, it has a single cam profile like pretty much any other car, just with variable valve timing. It's not a VTEC or VVTLi engine where you have a seperate cam profile with extra lift and duration for when up high in the power band, and since the variable valve timing is infinite you won't get that sudden aggressive step change like you do with a VTEC or a 2ZZGE.
My bad, i expected it to have control over both cams and timming... :D
hats off to honda for engieering such engines, yes! your the power of dreams...
And as an aside, even though you're in a different country with different laws, most of us don't approve of street drag racing - it is dangerous, stupid, and in most places illegal. Take it to the drag strip if you want to face off against your mates.
i know how u feel when u wrote the line mentioned above, we race on the streets, as we don't have any other option. but those street are out of the city, we don't have drag strips, this is the only reason we go to the area's where no one lives only we go there to race and have fun, we know the value of our and others life's, ...
Back to the topic... :D Damm low battery!! ill be back ... ;)
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have you researched any of these engine conversion? or are you just pulling numbers and letters out of the air?
both are completly different engines, with completely different characteristics not to mention the price and effort differences in shoe horning them into your car.
if you are drag racing what is important is the area under the curve in terms or power and torques. quoting peak power/torque is somewhat useless as it might be a dog in the lower RPM's.
N/A is cool, untill you realise how much slower you are going than an engine that cost 1/4 the cost to build but has a hair dryer attached!:P
does those number and my words sound like they come out of the Air!!
wht kind of chracteristics are we talking about here? not to mention their displacement and cylinder diffrence, I don't think i have to mention that or i have to.. they both came in sports enditions.. nor any of these engine will act like a dog in low rpm.. yes 3S is very well engineered. multicam profile ,but it gets instantly agrassive when switches to hi cam profile, which in my view is a disadvantge, we race on streets normally,
were 2jzge produces the same amout of power, its very simple, cheaper.
Searches...
i didnt found any one the above engine racing a honda with 200hp engine... i searched alteeza and na supra. but i failed. literally, can't find it..
this is the only reason i came here to ask you guys about these engines...
what i don't know is how this engine reacts if they are installed in a half weighted cars...
please reffer to my previous built, i own a 500hp SR-5...next to no traction even with BS.SO2. 265/45/17, deadly!
i will be installing this engine in a ke70.. corolla. will use that car for drag racing on regular streets..
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Best option either beams 3sge or SR20VE if you are willing to go Nissan. Both have variable valve timing etc both 2L 4cylinder both close to equal with K20. Anything else you need more cylinders or a turbo or a F20c Honda S2000 motor which is way better than a k20 but so expensive.
what if i had to decide among the followings...
2jzge distributor vs 3sge 9dual vvti . beams..
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I'm a bit late but is there any reason for not just buying a ka20r? If you're competing with one and want to match/beat it why not just get one? They are expensive but if you're going to the extent of a putting a 2jz into a ke70 or a kp60 I don't think budget should be a problem. If you can't beat them, join them. If you still can't beat them then go turbo haha
Well i asked, as if there is any toyota engine, that can compete with honda's engine. on NA grounds..
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Look for a NA motor.....
also I was reffering to 2JZGE..
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guys, need an input on 2JZGE, non VVTI, will it be a good option .. i want to know about its rating on drag racing. the power output is equalant to k20r, if i install in my ke70 or kp60,
the reason why i selected this motor are following.
225 hps completes at 6000 rpm, impressive for me.
213 tq completes at 4800, make it a bit easy to control the wheel spins.
its cheap and availability of parts is easy..
thanks..
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LSD!!! which one is it??
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More pictures.. :)
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lets just make one thing clear here.....dyno readings CANNOT be compared to other dyno readings or factory quoted figures. well they can, but are potentially +/- 25% or even more different.
use them as a ball park figure to check if you are getting about the right amount of power, but 180-220 is what, 20% difference? thats pretty close.
there are just to many variables. there are heaps of settings inside the dyno, that know one ever really considers when quoting figures, i don't even know them all...but if they aren't all set to be the same, you will get different readings on two identical dynos next to each other.
dynos are used to make comparisons ON THE DAY for tuning purposes. do a run, change some stuff, do another run, check the AFR's, make sure it actually made more power COMPARED to the previous run, repeat this process untill you find the optimal settings that produce the most power ON THE DAY ON THAT DYNO. then lock up the ECU and your done.
you can't then take the car across town to a completely different dyno, and expect the readings to be exactly the same.....
Agreed, well Said, !!
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Thanks .. :yes:
thermostat here I home..
The radiator is weak, I think it wont resist high pressure .. but now its worth the effort even if i have to change it... :blush:
thanks again...
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hi all,
I have searched but I failed to find the answer, I know that the thermostat plays a vital role in EFI engines but I am unsure of its importance in carby engines, as I have read that they are not of that high importance in carby car..
I just bought this KP-61 with 3K, engine sounds reasonable to me, but I found that the previous own had removed the thermostat also the Radiator Fan is connected to IGN1...
because of extreme illiteracy, this is the first setup performed by the mechanics here.. referring that this is a hot country, we don't require it here...
plus, if I have to install one, will a 4k or 5k thermostat will fit in?? Or just connecting the radiator fan to temp. Switch I'll be OK...
thanks... :wink:
7K In Kp-60.
in Engine Conversions
Posted
Hi all, Sorry, was busy.
The issue i had with cranking the engines, was because of starter motor, i was using 4K starter motor which was unable to rotate the 7k-E , alltho it was New! I Searched and found a 7k with starter motor, it was totally different thing, Installed it and the engine started to crank perfectly,.
then the IGN timming : have to Learn and redo the IGN timing, read an article here and done.
the only thing which bugs me Now is exhaust pipe, currently i have 1.5 inch Straight pipe till to cylincer and nothing in between..
I just want to know what the recommanded exhaust setup for 7k-E.?
also a friend of mine have a t50 (20 spines) available, which he had in his 4age Silver top. can i use that tranny in 7k-E. >
Thanks