Jackson

G'day mate, I have the same setup and am trying to figure out the carb myself, The last few weeks I have been poking around inside the carb. One thing I have found while poking about is that the cluster of ,I think 4, ports on the side of the carb. I think all of these ports come out inside the primary barrel just above the butterfly however on of them is slightly slot so that it is both above and bellow the butterfly. I guess this allows the dizzy to get vacumn at both idle and when the butterfly is open. So at idle, butterfly closed, all the vacumn is in the manifold while at full throttle, butterfly open, vacumn in manifold goes to 0 (I think thats what Altezza was trying to say in another thread?). When you vacumn test them I know that it is steady (about 21 whatever units) when idling but if you rev it sharply then needle jumps about but definitely heads to zero. I have never tried but would be interesting to see what happens to the vacumn if revs are steadily increased. Sorry to change the subject but is this what the second outlet is on an electronic dizzy? One side advances and one side retards?

Ok altezza, I am getting around to the graphs. Carb kit turned up today. Figured for decent results I should get a decent carb. Only thing is now I need one of these, LINK

God gave you ten... :wink:

I'm not sure but I think the plate under the carb runs up into the carb and comes out into the throats just above the primary butterfly. So does that mean it is ported? I did a quick vac advance test and upon increasing revs the advance increases. Then is it just that all the other things need some sort of vacumn so they can just go on whichever ones of there is some specific positions for each hose?

G'day fellas. I got two 4k carbs here, one with a manual choke, one with an auto. I have a 4k-C in a Suzuki sierra, done by someone else, at the moment it has the auto choke carb on it and I think some of the things like the dash pot, hot idle compensation and auto choke isn't working. I think I would prefer to use the manual choke one but I have ordered a kit to put through whichever one I decide on. Anyway I have been looking at this in the Wiki section and I have a few questions. The distributor line. Does it go into the plate between the carb and the manifold or does it go into the carb somewhere. Also I have an electronic distributor, the wiki section says to just T it to the other one, is that all I have to do? For some reason mine runs into that BVSV. Also I don't have that loop of the side of the dizzy line with the VSV and VCV what is the actual purpose of that? Also the picture shows 5 hoses on the right hand side of the carb. I can only find four on the manual one, however the auto choke one has the four plus a bigger (than all the other pipes) coming out of the very top plate, just next to the pump plunger I think it is in the top of the fuel bowl, however the manual choke carb doesn't have one. Is this bigger one meant to go to the canister? If anyone can answer any of that, it'd be a big help cheers.

Have not tried. What does that do?

Well if that is true then my problem is worse then originally thought...

Why does a mechanical one have to be worse then an electrical one?

I bought a mechanical gauge from repco, I think it is Speco or something? It couldn't be more than a month old. Yes I am using coolant. The radiator is a little smaller then the stock 4K one and the condition is poor. Now I know that is then the obvious reason, but why has it suddenly become an issue when it wasn't a few weeks ago? The thermostat is new... Got a bleed valve to deal with trapped air. I back flushed the radiator and the block and I would have drank the water that came out of both. When you look in the radiator the flow appears to be pretty good, though I am not 100% sure what it should be.

Well further testing has shown that the problem is still there... I have flushed it out, appeared to help a little. Taken the fan off, appeared to help a little. Lifted the radiator back up, didn't seem to do much. So I am kinda unsure of where to go from here... Any pointers?

Yeah I only fill up with 98 also a quick question I don't need to use something like flash lube do I? Hardened valves were introduced in like the 70's yeah?

I have to disagree with this as it isn't really an accurate model as the fan blades do not "plug" the radiator fins. If you get a straw and hold a piece of paper a few mm of the far end and blow in the air can go through but if you flip it around then the paper is between your mouth and the straw. I set the timing to 8ish degrees at idle with vac lines plugged, it may have been slightly less, I will run the light over it to check. Is 8 degrees what it should be at idle?

I know 120 would be boiling point but I am still a bit worried that it is climbing with no sign of stopping. I will take it for a run and see.

I don't see how front or back doesn't matter on the front it inhibits air from moving straight through the radiator where as on the back it is irrelevant if it pushes the air about. I can see what you are saying with the maths but the problem definitely isn't at idle. I went between idling and revving it stationary for a good twenty minutes when I flushed the system and there was no sign of overheating, once the fan kicked in it cooled right back down. Though I should not that the fan was not able to keep it cool if held around the same revs as it does when doing 80-90 (though this seems kinda obvious as there is no air from the car moving) When I first thought about this problem I agreed with your maths, except I think my current fan is more like 1500 liters per hour, except at stationary the motor isn't working at all so it doesn't really need alot of air but once you get going I feel you would need all that air and once you get going a fan on the front is going to deflect alot of air from moving through the radiator. When I say it heats indefinitely that is I don't want to let it overheat/boil, pretty much I haven't let it go passed 95-100, so no I do not get any of those problems. And I checked the thermostat when I flushed her seems to be working fine. On the weekend I might take the fan of and take it for a drive.

What I think may be the problem is not the amount of air the fan is pushing but how much it is blocking from going through the rad. Originally it had this Chinese 9" thermo which couldn't push enough air when I was on the beach so I got an 11" spal which turns out is excellent on the beach but I think it's blocking to much air once I get going at 80-90 k's the temperature climbs indefinitely. I have flushed the rad and engine. Checked the flow and all seems good. So I am thinking try the thermo on the back or an engine fan??

That'd be great thanks mate.

I don't have an engine fan... I didn't do the conversion and I didn't get an engine fan with the car... There abouts measurements will do as it will tell me if it is worth getting one

G'day Having a bit of trouble keeping my zook with a 4k engine cold, currently it has a thermo fan but if I could make it fit an engine fan would be better I think. If someone could do me a quick favour and measure from the very front of the water pump pulley to the front of the fan blades as well has how far between the back of the radiator and the front of the fan that'd be awsome. Cheers. Jackson

Ok, I just give it a clean and put it back together now I can see that the secondary isn't opening at all. While it was apart I sucked on the hose that activates the the secondary barrel to learn that it takes piss all suction to open it and that it doesn't seem like there is any leaks in the diaphram. Next I noticed that the hose from the carby to the diaphram goes into the one corner of the carby about half way up and it seems as if it goes into the secondary barrel... To me this seems weird... How could it get any vacumn if that barrel isn't open? Can I just try get some vacumn from else where? Thanks, Jackson

Another quick one. Where would I pick up jets, floats and needle valves? Or the are not avaliable?

Yeah, pretty sure to adjust your mixture up higher speeds and throttle you would change jets. I think.

Sorry... 4k, just the stock carby. My bad.

G'day Just checked in the wiki section and it says: Mine are 0.99 primary and 1.50 secondary noticed today that after half throttle there is no acceleration or anything. Would the smaller jet cause this? Thanks, Jackson

I can only comment on 1 and 3 so: 1. As long as you can get all the rust you can bog it it probably won't be a problem unless the hole is to big, but if you just bog it it'll probably look crap unless you paint it. The bog I used was pink and the car was yellow. So painting over the bog is sort of a must if you care about the appearance. 3. I'd get new bolts, I recently reused the bolts and snapped them off in the flywheel. I probably did them up to much but it was still annoying to have to get them out. Really new bolts aren't going to set you back much and you don't have to worry about any previous fatigue. Just what I think. Jackson

Yeah man gotta be heaps careful with engineering and things. It doesn't say where you live but from my experience in NSW an owner certified engine upgrade is capped at 15% more power or capacity which both must adhere to. So if you increase capacity by 10% but power by 20% it has to be engineered and visa-versa. which cost me 650 without GST for and engine cert, wasn't that bad a process either took it in one day, was passed the next. I don't know what the KE30's originally had... I am guessing a 3K or something? So if that is true your 2ltr is would have to be engineered in NSW to be registered. Ofcourse if it is already registered you could just do the sneaky and not worry about it. Jackson