G'day

 

Having a bit of trouble keeping my zook with a 4k engine cold, currently it has a thermo fan but if I could make it fit an engine fan would be better I think.

 

If someone could do me a quick favour and measure from the very front of the water pump pulley to the front of the fan blades as well has how far between the back of the radiator and the front of the fan that'd be awsome.

 

Cheers.

 

Jackson

Edited August 15, 201115 yr by Jackson

why can't you do it yourself?

 

what if the distances are slightly different in some1 elses car?

I don't have an engine fan... I didn't do the conversion and I didn't get an engine fan with the car... There abouts measurements will do as it will tell me if it is worth getting one

I can get the measurements for you tommorow if you still need them .. I'll post them tommorow night if i remember

That'd be great thanks mate.

I've got a davies craig thermofan on my 5K and it moves an amazing amount of air, much more than the engine fan ever would.

 

To save you a lot of rooting around, I suspect it isn't your fan that is the problem.

 

What are the symptoms? is it boiling? or just sitting high on the gauge?

What I think may be the problem is not the amount of air the fan is pushing but how much it is blocking from going through the rad.

 

Originally it had this Chinese 9" thermo which couldn't push enough air when I was on the beach so I got an 11" spal which turns out is excellent on the beach but I think it's blocking to much air once I get going at 80-90 k's the temperature climbs indefinitely.

 

I have flushed the rad and engine. Checked the flow and all seems good.

 

So I am thinking try the thermo on the back or an engine fan??

Front or back won't make a difference first of all, regardless of Tue side its on, the flow is 'blocked'.

 

Anyway the maths doesn't stack up, allow me to explain! A stationary fan will move approx 300 litres a second. A car, without fan, travelling at 100 kmh will push 6750 litres a second of air through a 600x400 radiator. Even if you blocked half the.radiator area, at that speed you still get 10 times more airflow.

 

Most overheating problems I find with my K engine happen at idle. Water pump running slow, no passive air flow. I dread 43 degree days in traffic for this reason.

 

I still think you're barking up the wrong tree. You mention Temp climbs indefinitely, does it actually boil? K motors will begin to ping very hastily once they get really hot? Do you get this, are you actually boiling? Steam everywhere etc?

 

Is your thermostat working?

I don't see how front or back doesn't matter on the front it inhibits air from moving straight through the radiator where as on the back it is irrelevant if it pushes the air about.

 

I can see what you are saying with the maths but the problem definitely isn't at idle. I went between idling and revving it stationary for a good twenty minutes when I flushed the system and there was no sign of overheating, once the fan kicked in it cooled right back down. Though I should not that the fan was not able to keep it cool if held around the same revs as it does when doing 80-90 (though this seems kinda obvious as there is no air from the car moving)

 

When I first thought about this problem I agreed with your maths, except I think my current fan is more like 1500 liters per hour, except at stationary the motor isn't working at all so it doesn't really need alot of air but once you get going I feel you would need all that air and once you get going a fan on the front is going to deflect alot of air from moving through the radiator.

 

When I say it heats indefinitely that is I don't want to let it overheat/boil, pretty much I haven't let it go passed 95-100, so no I do not get any of those problems.

 

And I checked the thermostat when I flushed her seems to be working fine.

 

On the weekend I might take the fan of and take it for a drive.

Edited August 16, 201115 yr by Jackson

I don't see how front or back doesn't matter on the front it inhibits air from moving straight through the radiator where as on the back it is irrelevant if it pushes the air about.

 

Get a straw, plug the end. It doesn't matter which way you blow through, its blocked. Tape some cardboard to your radiator, front or back, it wont matter. Anyway, simply put, fan on the front 'blocking the radiator' is a myth; at worst, it might slow the airspeed down slightly but it will not cause you to overheat..

 

When I say it heats indefinitely that is I don't want to let it overheat/boil, pretty much I haven't let it go passed 95-100, so no I do not get any of those problems.

 

Mate, 95-100 isn't hot. That's well within a safe range, if you're worried about that, then there's no issue here at all. With a coolant and a working radiator cap, your coolant boiling point will be around 120 degrees!

 

Honestly, if your car isn't boiling at idle, and it's hitting 95-100 at speed, there is nothing to worry about.

 

Mate, 95-100 isn't hot. That's well within a safe range, if you're worried about that, then there's no issue here at all. With a coolant and a working radiator cap, your coolant boiling point will be around 120 degrees!

 

 

I know 120 would be boiling point but I am still a bit worried that it is climbing with no sign of stopping. I will take it for a run and see.

Sucking (behind the rad) is not as efficient as blowing (front of the rad) unless you shroud it... then the shroud makes it hard for air to flow when the fan is not working.

 

How's the timing?? Retarded timing will make it heat up. Stick a few degrees of advance on and see..

 

Water pump fins worn away so it can't circulate very well??

Mate, 95-100 isn't hot. That's well within a safe range, if you're worried about that, then there's no issue here at all. With a coolant and a working radiator cap, your coolant boiling point will be around 120 degrees!

 

anything more than 80degrees on a bog stock k motor is a issue in the winter. summer 90 is within reason

 

:blinks:

Get a straw, plug the end. It doesn't matter which way you blow through, its blocked.

 

I have to disagree with this as it isn't really an accurate model as the fan blades do not "plug" the radiator fins. If you get a straw and hold a piece of paper a few mm of the far end and blow in the air can go through but if you flip it around then the paper is between your mouth and the straw.

 

Sucking (behind the rad) is not as efficient as blowing (front of the rad) unless you shroud it... then the shroud makes it hard for air to flow when the fan is not working.

 

How's the timing?? Retarded timing will make it heat up. Stick a few degrees of advance on and see..

 

Water pump fins worn away so it can't circulate very well??

 

I set the timing to 8ish degrees at idle with vac lines plugged, it may have been slightly less, I will run the light over it to check.

 

Is 8 degrees what it should be at idle?

That's factory, 8deg.

 

They run well with more, so long as you're using 95octane or better. Give it 10 or 12... I've had 18! :blush: