Bernadette

Thought I might drag this thread up, as I have a related question...and this is my first question on the forum, so go easy! I installed a VDO tacho, and at the same time a new coil. I followed the instructions below, power source from 'engine' fuse and signal from negative on coil. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6wnvyI__yzHel90dzBBaUlUaEtzWW02aWxxdTVFUQ I drove on the highway for about 40km and as I was waiting at lights on exit ramp the engine died. I managed to get it started after 10 minutes, then I bunny jumped for about another km before it died again and I couldn't get re-started. After diagnosis, I found the coil had died. I took it back to REPCO and got a refund, and re-installed the old coil (which was still in working order). I never re-hooked the tacho back up, and have been running fine ever since. I originally thought the problem was just a dodgy coil, but then decided to check the wiring etc. to see if I had done something wrong. All wired correctly. I didn't want to re-hook the tacho back up, because I hate breaking down in traffic and thought maybe the tacho had stuffed the coil somehow... Tonight, I was curious after reading this thread so I measured the signal wire (currently the tacho is all wired up to power etc. but the signal wire usually connected to the negative on coil is un-hooked). I connected positive probe of voltmeter to signal wire and grounded negative. To my surprise (with engine running) the voltmeter had a steady reading of 0.20 Volts. This seems wrong, and I'd like anyone's idea on whether this signal wire should be reading a positive voltage, and could this positive voltage have a detrimental effect on a coil after driving a few kms. Thanks in advance. Andrew.

I added a generic brand (think it is same as facet) electric pump to my ke55, because I had to... Car kept randomly loosing power (spluttering) especially when going around right-hand corners, then one day sitting at lights and car died properly. Couldn't get started so got it towed. Diagnosed as fuel pump, BUT when I took old pump off I noticed it still had suction when manually moving the actuating arm...didn't think much of it, and put in new pump. Car stalled at lights again (same lights, I might add), and again I towed it home. Removed new pump, and after chatting to a mate we figured must be the cam on the engine that hits the pump actuating arm...so I blanked it off and installed an electric. Nice and noisy but no more breaking down at lights! Wired to 'ON' switch on ignition. Rubber mounted on right side of boot behind fuel tank panel. Think the pump was around $90 from Repco. Thought you might find this interesting...