leWolf

Got it figured out, I ran the ground and engine strap down to the drivers side mounts and bolted them up. Also I fixed the charging light issue by putting a random 2.5 amp fuse in the yellow wired fuse holder. So thats all tucked away now and I'm onto the next project. :dance:

I guess I phrased that wrong, I just want to know the stock connection points for the grounds. It just looks terrible sitting on top of my engine.

Glad somebody understands the wiring diagrams better than me. I couldn't figure out the color codes, and the ground from body to engine can't be right, from the valve cover to a brake line strap on the firewall? As for it going flat I haven't checked it yet but I will tonight. That yellow wire with an inline fuse though is confusing me though. I can't figure it out for the life of me, even the wiring diagram says in line fuse but gives no rating for amperage.

Ok so I have replaced my voltage regulator and I still am having a constant charging light even though it is putting out 14.08volts at idle. Well here are some other things i have observed in my engine bay that may be a contributing factor. The ground wires are all screwed up one is running from the valve cover to a 10mm bolt holding a brake line on. The ground battery cable is running to the side of the head. Also there is an extra wire coming of the voltage regulator that goes no where and right next to that there is a yellow wire inline fuse holder that is completely empty. What fuse goes in there anyways? and where are the stock grounds supposed to run to? BTW this is on a 1979 TE38 with a 2TC. Thanks guys!

I know it's kinda old, alright no it's flat zombie status. But I was hoping to dig up an answer and got lost in the info. I am still having issue's learning the site though, sorry about that. Really though, I had a issue with my old carbed civic eventually became a pain in the shorts to drive daily lol.

Ha, I had actually already ordered one from there. Thanks though Now I need to figure out where that extra wire goes! Wiring diagrams here I come!

Ok, wouldn't it be easier to run a 4 barrel carb and just lock the secondaries to kill the fuel and air flow? For the exhuast you could run nice high flow exhuast piping from the engine all the way back to a super quiet and restrictive muffler, just put a cutout before it. Maybe the DCOE's perform way better than a 4 barrel but wouldn't that be because of the awesome flow characteristics? That makes me think that any shutter/valve or modification in the intake could severely hinder flow even when open, right? Seems like an awesome project though.

Kingman AZ 1979 TE38 5-speed wagon 2TC Stock at the moment

Thank you sir! I swear trying dig out reliable info from the internet is like pulling teeth without novacaine. All I need now is a build thread.

So I have been tearing into my 79 corolla wagon and ran into this item. Whoever got a hold of this beat the tar out of it, wrapped it in a roll of electrical tape and left it plugged in inside the engine bay. Of course the car is giving me all sorts of funky charging/alternator light issues and I really hope the 2 are related because I looked into the electrical schematics and I got lost quick! I thank all of you in advance!